When there is a harmonic "under" the note you are playing try using your middle finger to fret the note with the index finger muting the harmonic. I can add more "hands" stuff but I don't want to overwhelm.
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In this situation I agree that a tweeter/horn/high frequency driver is likely not a significant part of the root problem. I would also agree that a mid or high driver does help add air and definition to your notes by getting some of the upper harmonics out there more effectively. However, there are plenty of single driver cabs for bass that sound just fine on the low register notes and only tend to be a little darker (not muddy) in areas outside where the issue here seems to be.I disagree with worrying about a tweeter. You should be able to discern the lower notes just fine with no tweeter at all
I would not underestimate the role of technique. Picking/plucking just a few centimeters closer (or further away from) the bridge can make a big difference in which partials dominate in the attack.
Thank you for that! I have adjusted the bass tone control subtractively, but it seems that I have to do it to the point where I lose that low end grunt I so love. I’ll have to fiddle a little more with those mids and low mids. I don’t like what the high mids do to the tone, so I basically dial it down to about 10-11 o’clock.
I’ll also look into a high pass filter. Do you have a suggestion as to brand/model?
I've heard good things about the Broughton Audio Always-On hi-pass filter, and it'll definitely be the next one I give a try.Interesting idea. Any suggestions as to brand/model?
...impossible for my ear to hear whole and half steps. In other words, every note sounds the same
I recently posted a question about how to eliminate excessive harmonics when playing at 5th and 7th fret positions. Got some good suggestions which I will work on.
The next problem I’d like some help with is that of getting nice fat lows with good definition — i.e. “tight” low end response. It seems like when I play down the neck — toward the nut — the notes turn to mud making it impossible for my ear to hear whole and half steps. In other words, every note sounds the same, or at the very least they sound like the intonation is way off. Yes, I check intonation with a Peterson tuner! I have tried rolling off the bass EQ settings, increasing the trebles while using the J pups and rolling off the P pups. As a result I end up with a tone that is, for my taste, too trebly. I want defined, tight low end punch as well as clean high end pop. I can get the high end definition, but the low end is mud and ill-defined note-wise.
I have tried playing with all the EQ frequencies on the amp as well as with the EQ’s on the bass. Just can’t get what my ear is craving. I’m wondering if an amp like the the Mesa Boogie WD-800 Subway + cab would do the trick since that amp is SO adjustable. I just don’t want to lay out the big bucks only to have the same problem rear its ugly head. I have a MarkBass 121P, the latest Fender Rumble 500 (2X10), and at one point I also ran the MarkBass thru a 410 extension cab. I also had an original SWR Super Red Head. I have just not been able to dial in “that sound.” Any help would be greatly appreciated!
P.S. I guess I should have added that I want to be able to play nice walking bass lines with great pitch definition as well as classic rock and funk slap and pop.
So many variables on that question. I did not see this mentioned on the first page of the stream, but playing back toward the bridge and bridge pickup seems to bring out the nuggets/goodies that I sometimes perceive as note definition and cut, but can reduce punch and bottom end unless EQ'd back in. Just a different angle than has been previously mentioned. Lots of good suggestions already.I recently posted a question about how to eliminate excessive harmonics when playing at 5th and 7th fret positions. Got some good suggestions which I will work on.
The next problem I’d like some help with is that of getting nice fat lows with good definition — i.e. “tight” low end response. It seems like when I play down the neck — toward the nut — the notes turn to mud making it impossible for my ear to hear whole and half steps. In other words, every note sounds the same, or at the very least they sound like the intonation is way off. Yes, I check intonation with a Peterson tuner! I have tried rolling off the bass EQ settings, increasing the trebles while using the J pups and rolling off the P pups. As a result I end up with a tone that is, for my taste, too trebly. I want defined, tight low end punch as well as clean high end pop. I can get the high end definition, but the low end is mud and ill-defined note-wise.
I have tried playing with all the EQ frequencies on the amp as well as with the EQ’s on the bass. Just can’t get what my ear is craving. I’m wondering if an amp like the the Mesa Boogie WD-800 Subway + cab would do the trick since that amp is SO adjustable. I just don’t want to lay out the big bucks only to have the same problem rear its ugly head. I have a MarkBass 121P, the latest Fender Rumble 500 (2X10), and at one point I also ran the MarkBass thru a 410 extension cab. I also had an original SWR Super Red Head. I have just not been able to dial in “that sound.” Any help would be greatly appreciated!
P.S. I guess I should have added that I want to be able to play nice walking bass lines with great pitch definition as well as classic rock and funk slap and pop.
No. Some might have more low end response than others, but the definition you're looking for where you can actually hear what note you're playing comes from the mids. I used to own that little Markbass combo and I never had a problem getting note definition on the lowest notes.Thanks so much for all the info. A friend of mine has an Eden combo amp — I think it is a 210 — and she likes it a lot. I’ll have to ask her to let me try it.
I’ll have to take a look at the DNA. I’m not familiar with that brand at all, but from what you are saying, it seems it might just be worth a hard look/listen. I agree that the Cab has a huge impact on tone as do the speakers. The cabs I have, and have been trying, are all light weight jobs made of poplar loaded with neodymium speakers. They are appealing in terms of their light weight/portability, however, I am now wondering if those weight-saving measures have resulted in inferior low end response lacking definition.
Those are gross generalizations that may or may not apply. I have found cabs that I love and hate in all of those formats, and everything in between. If what you were saying were true, then every cab would sound the same regardless of the different speakers used, and they don't. Design of the speaker and design of the cab you put it in are way more important factors than just speaker size. And being a professional touring musician who has had to play through anything from some of the finest gear that money can buy to the cheapo 30 year old combo that some promoter uses in his little oldies band and tries to save money on rented backline at my expense, it's never the rig's fault if you can't find a usable sound out of it and somehow make it work. And you have some pretty good stuff already and there's no reason you shouldn't be able to make it happen. Throwing more money at it isn't going to solve a thing.I am impressed by the Mesa Boogie WD-800 Subway amp, so perhaps marrying it with a DNA DNS-210 will give me what I’m looking for. Of course I’ll also look into the Mesa Boogie cabs too. I only play small venues, so I don’t need enough power to blow the house down, but I still want plenty of warm, tight, defined bottom end. I am also wondering about the speaker size and it’s effect on note definition. I have always thought 15” spkrs are too flubby. 1x12’s don’t give enough low end, 2x10’s give better definition, and 4x10’s are wonderful, but they weigh a ton, and I don’t have a roadie! I have to schlep my gear by own mine self!
+10. I personally refuse to fall into the money trap of thinking I can sound better only if I had this very expensive rig. It's the same with tennis players, everytime they miss a ball it's the racquets fault, then they smash their racquet and go buy a different one, never even considering for a moment that it's not the racquet's fault at all....it's never the rig's fault if you can't find a usable sound out of it and somehow make it work. And you have some pretty good stuff already and there's no reason you shouldn't be able to make it happen. Throwing more money at it isn't going to solve a thing.....