Getting the Facts about Ski Jumps

[Turnaround]

Awesome, I'll pull the clamps off this evening and let it set. I ordered some nitro and plan on refinishing it, but i'll give it a few weeks to settle before finishing. I'm not sure if it's the design but i remember my 1954 reissue sting bass getting extreme relief with only slightly higher tension strings and although the truss corrected it, i went back to low tension Thomastik. Does this vintage design just not work well with higher tension strings. Seems the rest of my basses (2 Warmoth, US PRS, Musicman, Gibson and G&L) were never this sensitive. I know the Warmoth has steel stiffening rods, but maybe others do also.

I'm guessing in my case its probably the combination of everything.....High tension strings, long term storage in tune, high humidity and loose truss rod.

Do not loosen the strings in long term storage unless you loosen the truss rod as well. The truss rod balances the tension of the strings, so keep the neck in balance.

Any neck will bow more with higher tension strings. That's one reason for the truss rod, to balance the added tension. Some necks are more rigid than others and thus require less help from the truss rod. Same with those that have additional stiffening rods,

 

[JutMitch]

Do not loosen the strings in long term storage unless you loosen the truss rod as well. The truss rod balances the tension of the strings, so keep the neck in balance.

Any neck will bow more with higher tension strings. That's one reason for the truss rod, to balance the added tension. Some necks are more rigid than others and thus require less help from the truss rod. Same with those that have additional stiffening rods,

I never loosen the strings, but i do back off the tension by down tuning a half step or until i sight my fretboard as relatively flat. Not sure that is necessary or not but i don't like leaving anything long term in either a concave or convex state for extended periods of time. This could just be OCD and it probably isn't doing much of anything.. One thing i'll say is very impressed with Warmoth necks. Although i have several ways of keeping humidity controlled in my house i still vary from about 38-50% and the Warmoth is always solid. My Musicman is by far the most finicky neck to keep perfect.

 

[BGroovy]

with compound radius necks, is it more difficult to see a ski jump by sighting?

I recently picked up a Fender Jazz Ultra. It has a really nice setup and no buzz, so there's no symptoms of the jump but just looking down while playing I feel like it has a noticeable visible jump.

The frets have been leveled but since it's a newer bass I have concerns if it's already developed a jump that this one needs to go back. Any tips for determining a jump when the frets have been leveled on a compound radius neck?

 

[/\/\3phist0]

FWIW: try capo at 12, and depress E string at 20.
The string SHOULD lay flat on all frets, if not it confirms what I can see based on the photo.

 

[BGroovy]

FWIW: try capo at 12, and depress E string at 20.
The string SHOULD lay flat on all frets, if not it confirms what I can see based on the photo.

Does fret leveling impact this? I don’t get any buzz up and down the neck because the frets were leveled recently.

Capo at 12th and fretting on last fret (21st) I can fit a .003 feeler gauge between the 16th fret and the E string

 

[Turnaround]

with compound radius necks, is it more difficult to see a ski jump by sighting?

I recently picked up a Fender Jazz Ultra. It has a really nice setup and no buzz, so there's no symptoms of the jump but just looking down while playing I feel like it has a noticeable visible jump.

The frets have been leveled but since it's a newer bass I have concerns if it's already developed a jump that this one needs to go back. Any tips for determining a jump when the frets have been leveled on a compound radius neck?

A good way to detect a ski jump is with a straightedge from the 12th to the last fret along the string path (you can use one of the strings by depressing it at the 12th and last frets). There should be no gap between the straightedge and any of the frets. But a small ski jump doesn't preclude a good setup - just not an ideal one.

 

[BGroovy]

A good way to detect a ski jump is with a straightedge from the 12th to the last fret along the string path (you can use one of the strings by depressing it at the 12th and last frets). There should be no gap between the straightedge and any of the frets. But a small ski jump doesn't preclude a good setup - just not an ideal one.

there’s only a very small gap when testing with 12th and 21st fret depressed, but if the frets have been leveled and fall off on the last frets wouldn’t this just test the frets and not the neck?

Since frets are freshly leveled my concern is there is a ski jump already that might get worse over time (neck is only 2 years old). Looking down from playing position visually looks like the feet board ramps, but I can only fit a .003 feeler gauge at 16th feet when I capo the 12th and hold down the 21st

 

[Turnaround]

there’s only a very small gap when testing with 12th and 21st fret depressed, but if the frets have been leveled and fall off on the last frets wouldn’t this just test the frets and not the neck?

Since frets are freshly leveled my concern is there is a ski jump already that might get worse over time (neck is only 2 years old). Looking down from playing position visually looks like the feet board ramps, but I can only fit a .003 feeler gauge at 16th feet when I capo the 12th and hold down the 21st

First, if the frets are level, it doesn’t matter if the neck is or not. But if you can fit a .003” feeler when fretting the 12th and last frets, they aren’t level.

 

[BGroovy]

First, if the frets are level, it doesn’t matter if the neck is or not. But if you can fit a .003” feeler when fretting the 12th and last frets, they aren’t level.

yes, definitely not perfectly level, the reason it mattered to me is the frets could be level TODAY but not TOMORROW if the neck is on the move. If it already developed a ski jump at 2 years old.

So if the frets were leveled, they're gonna be level, but if its warping at 2 years it would likely continue to warp and need further leveling was my main concern.

 

[sissy kathy]

yes, definitely not perfectly level, the reason it mattered to me is the frets could be level TODAY but not TOMORROW if the neck is on the move. If it already developed a ski jump at 2 years old.

So if the frets were leveled, they're gonna be level, but if its warping at 2 years it would likely continue to warp and need further leveling was my main concern.

First, you don't know the neck would keep bending. Second, now isn't the time to worry about it. Don't buy yourself worries.

 

[BGroovy]

First, you don't know the neck would keep bending. Second, now isn't the time to worry about it. Don't buy yourself worries.

it's absolutely the time to worry when it's within the return period I think. Don't need to spend good money on a bass if it's likely to have expensive repairs down the road.

That's why I'm hunting some expert opinions here. I've had "not worth repairing" ski ramp on a few early 2000s G&L basses that were huge bummers.

I guess no one can truly know, but the question I'm seeking is - if it was recently leveled and it's got a .003" gap now, what's the likelihood this neck continues to ski ramp?

 

[Zooberwerx]

it's absolutely the time to worry when it's within the return period I think. Don't need to spend good money on a bass if it's likely to have expensive repairs down the road.

That's why I'm hunting some expert opinions here. I've had "not worth repairing" ski ramp on a few early 2000s G&L basses that were huge bummers.

I guess no one can truly know, but the question I'm seeking is - if it was recently leveled and it's got a .003" gap now, what's the likelihood this neck continues to ski ramp?

Don’t know but wouldn’t risk it on MY dime if you have return privileges.

Riis

 

[Matt Liebenau]

it's absolutely the time to worry when it's within the return period I think. Don't need to spend good money on a bass if it's likely to have expensive repairs down the road.

That's why I'm hunting some expert opinions here. I've had "not worth repairing" ski ramp on a few early 2000s G&L basses that were huge bummers.

I guess no one can truly know, but the question I'm seeking is - if it was recently leveled and it's got a .003" gap now, what's the likelihood this neck continues to ski ramp?

I understand about the return period but the possible question would be did you check the neck that way in that same spot immediately after the fret leveling? It’s possible the 0.003” was there to start with. That’s not a huge gap and the bass could have played with no buzz like that depending on the rest of the set up.

 

[BGroovy]

I understand about the return period but the possible question would be did you check the neck that way in that same spot immediately after the fret leveling? It’s possible the 0.003” was there to start with. That’s not a huge gap and the bass could have played with no buzz like that depending on the rest of the set up.

Picked it up from a shop that does really good setup work (every bass I played was exceptionally dialed in) so the leveling was done before I had my hands on it. They provide luthier notes and fret leveling of the last frets was listed as work they performed when they took it in.

They offer easy returns and a play at home period, I didn't notice the visible ramp playing in the store but did as soon as I spent some time with it.

 

[Turnaround]

Picked it up from a shop that does really good setup work (every bass I played was exceptionally dialed in) so the leveling was done before I had my hands on it. They provide luthier notes and fret leveling of the last frets was listed as work they performed when they took it in.

They offer easy returns and a play at home period, I didn't notice the visible ramp playing in the store but did as soon as I spent some time with it.

It's likely to be the kind of thing that will bug you now and continue to worry you. There's no way to know if the neck will continue to move, so the only peace you are likely to find is if you return it. That's not to say that you won't have the same experience with the next bass though.

 

[BGroovy]

It's likely to be the kind of thing that will bug you now and continue to worry you. There's no way to know if the neck will continue to move, so the only peace you are likely to find is if you return it. That's not to say that you won't have the same experience with the next bass though.

Need to build a database of thinner necked instruments NOT likely to ramp. I need a good active jazz. The neck on these are fantastic and the electronics are great passive and active.

I think you're right, love everything else about it though and I bought it on feel and tone without overthinking, and now I'm overthinking. Real bummer.

You'd think Fender could get it right on a $2k Jazz bass

 

[Turnaround]

Need to build a database of thinner necked instruments NOT likely to ramp. I need a good active jazz. The neck on these are fantastic and the electronics are great passive and active.

I think you're right, love everything else about it though and I bought it on feel and tone without overthinking, and now I'm overthinking. Real bummer.

You'd think Fender could get it right on a $2k Jazz bass

I've worked on $4000+ instruments that developed a ski jump. It's not just a Fender problem.

 

[BGroovy]

I've worked on $4000+ instruments that developed a ski jump. It's not just a Fender problem.

I know, it appears to be a “neck profiles I like and bond with” problem.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

Wood is gonna do what it wants, I've found that out the hard way. If you really want a neck that absolutely will not move in response to any normal range of temperature or humidity..... Get a Steinberger.

 

[melodiaopus]

What is the proper way to alleviate a bass with the dreaded ski jump around 12th fret and beyond? Some luthiers will say it’ll just need fretwork, but will anything help or is the bass a waste?