Gibson EB-3 restoration....

[DavidEdenAria]

I got the Husk (body and neck) whatever those pickups are. Not sure if they are original.

Measure the resistance on the pickups.

I personally wouldn't route the pickup slots but it's your bass!

There are plenty of after market parts available but the bottom line is the neck frets and action are what counts in the end.

I would get it assembled and see how the action is first but that's just me!

 

[sunburst79]

I got the Husk (body and neck) whatever those pickups are. Not sure if they are original.

Some pictures of the backsides of the pickups would help those more knowledgeable to ID them.

Personally I would not rout the body but that’s me.

I do wonder what’s under the black paint. Sometimes you can buff down through a layer of paint and find the stock finish in good shape. Depending on how you feel about Walnut that might be good or bad. My guess is it’s probably hiding something but who knows.

If it was good under the paint then I think I’d figure out some sort of Ted Woodford level repair patches for those headstock chips and somehow artfully touch up that area.

I’m a big fan of the Hipshot Gibson bridges so I would not be inclined to put the factory bridge back on. I’d find some modern drop in replacement tuners and use the stock pickups. But that’s me.

But I’m curious what’s lurking under the black paint. That would determine my course of action.

Vintage style restoration or partial restoration vs a total refinish and or restomods?

Not my bass. Not my project. It’s far enough from factory you’re not bound by rules. It’s not so trashed that it might not be able to be put back to something close to factory specs.

Good luck with whatever you decide. The headstock chips will be the hardest to repair well. But there is nothing on that bass that can’t be fixed.

 

[Pdaddy1978]

I don't have all of the original hardware. And I'm thinking that would be crazy expensive and pointless to by it. The original hardware wasn't that great to begin with.
I haven't purchased anything yet. I do have a set of gibson eb-3 pickups. And I also have a set of DiMarzio DP120 Model One's I'm thinking of using.

Good choice, It will save you some serious money. OEM parts are stupid expensive, and often inferior.
Make it a player, not a museum piece.

 

[Level5wizard]

Some pictures of the backsides of the pickups would help those more knowledgeable to ID them.

Personally I would not rout the body but that’s me.

I do wonder what’s under the black paint. Sometimes you can buff down through a layer of paint and find the stock finish in good shape. Depending on how you feel about Walnut that might be good or bad. My guess is it’s probably hiding something but who knows.

If it was good under the paint then I think I’d figure out some sort of Ted Woodford level repair patches for those headstock chips and somehow artfully touch up that area.

I’m a big fan of the Hipshot Gibson bridges so I would not be inclined to put the factory bridge back on. I’d find some modern drop in replacement tuners and use the stock pickups. But that’s me.

But I’m curious what’s lurking under the black paint. That would determine my course of action.

Vintage style restoration or partial restoration vs a total refinish and or restomods?

Not my bass. Not my project. It’s far enough from factory you’re not bound by rules. It’s not so trashed that it might not be able to be put back to something close to factory specs.

Good luck with whatever you decide. The headstock chips will be the hardest to repair well. But there is nothing on that bass that can’t be fixed.

All good, any input is welcome. I plan on getting the black paint off first. Then do the big assessments. Like that battery cavity. Clean it up and plug it. I know is needs a new nut.

 

[Level5wizard]

Measure the resistance on the pickups.

I personally wouldn't route the pickup slots but it's your bass!

There are plenty of after market parts available but the bottom line is the neck frets and action are what counts in the end.

I would get it assembled and see how the action is first but that's just me!

The big thing it needs a nut. Not even sure the truss rod works. On the top of list

 

[sunburst79]

The big thing it needs a nut. Not even sure the truss rod works. On the top of list

That’s something you want to check!

 

[Level5wizard]

That’s something you want to check!

I have a pre spring honey-do list that takes president. So my wife says.

 

[sunburst79]

I have a pre spring honey-do list that takes president. So my wife says.

It’s funny. I didn’t see the battery compartment. It’s partially hidden under the picture information placeholder. At least it’s on the back. Dan Earlewine had a nice method of using clear plastic to trace the grain lines with black marker and then positioning that on a piece of wood and moving it around till the grain matched as well as possible. If you do that on both sides of the battery compartment and connect the grain lines free hand it might come close to helping you cut a (Better) matching plug.

Now I’m leaning towards refin rather than walnut. But it’s the back. So who cares?

Sparkling Burgundy or Cardinal Red Metallic would be cool options.

 

[Tommy Sparks]

Definitely keep us posted!

 

[mikewalker]

Hipshot bridge and tuners would be my approach

 

[DavidEdenAria]

It’s funny. I didn’t see the battery compartment. It’s partially hidden under the picture information placeholder. At least it’s on the back. Dan Earlewine had a nice method of using clear plastic to trace the grain lines with black marker and then positioning that on a piece of wood and moving it around till the grain matched as well as possible. If you do that on both sides of the battery compartment and connect the grain lines free hand it might come close to helping you cut a (Better) matching plug.

Now I’m leaning towards refin rather than walnut. But it’s the back. So who cares?

Sparkling Burgundy or Cardinal Red Metallic would be cool options.

Cardinal red is cool a jazz girl I know has a Kalamazoo KB1 Bass in that color....really nice in person .

 

[Dark Horse]

All good, any input is welcome. I plan on getting the black paint off first. Then do the big assessments. Like that battery cavity. Clean it up and plug it. I know is needs a new nut.

You might look at some of @JIO restoration threads. He has a lot of good time saving tips throughout his build/rebuild project threads here.

 

[Level5wizard]

Some early assessments. Body and neck for the age in good shape wood wise. Is the unknown black paint in the body. The Giant issue is the nut broke off.

So I'll have to pull the fret board and put a new rod in. Ill look at stew mac to see if they have anything to help with this repair. I remember seeing a tool video about something like this. Or a pull the fretboard and put a new rod in.

The opening in the back is not a battery compartment. Something under the bridge area.

The neck is maple (correct for the year) just stained.

No cracks or deep damage on the neck or body. Someone did take out the three posts for the factory bridge and put wood dowels in. Looks like they had a badass 2 bridge in there.

I will have to get this black paint off. Looks like they painted over the old finish.
So far it is what I paid for. No complaints.... Yet

 

[JIO]

I’m gonna say two words that may or may not be popular…

“Pelham Blue”.

It looks wicked “aged”, and would be super cool for this build.

Here’s a photo or two of a 1966 in original Pelham Blue. The lacquer has aged/yellowed a bit and pushes it toward a bit greener color

View attachment 7457348View attachment 7457349


And here’s a “new” one in non-aged Pelham. I prefer the look of the aged lacquer, but they’re both awesome !


View attachment 7457350


Spraying a solid color and aging it a little bit will help with hiding wood imperfections from its decades of usage.

Three letters... MJT (for the win) They can do the aged PB w/checking and a mild-relic to fit the basses age.

 

[JIO]

Some early assessments. Body and neck for the age in good shape wood wise. Is the unknown black paint in the body. The Giant issue is the nut broke off.
View attachment 7457872
So I'll have to pull the fret board and put a new rod in. Ill look at stew mac to see if they have anything to help with this repair. I remember seeing a tool video about something like this. Or a pull the fretboard and put a new rod in.

The opening in the back is not a battery compartment. Something under the bridge area.View attachment 7457873
The neck is maple (correct for the year) just stained.

No cracks or deep damage on the neck or body. Someone did take out the three posts for the factory bridge and put wood dowels in. Looks like they had a badass 2 bridge in there.
View attachment 7457874
I will have to get this black paint off. Looks like they painted over the old finish.
So far it is what I paid for. No complaints.... Yet

Best to use any other bridge than the original 3-point version.

 

[JIO]

Measure the resistance on the pickups.

I personally wouldn't route the pickup slots but it's your bass!

There are plenty of after market parts available but the bottom line is the neck frets and action are what counts in the end.

I would get it assembled and see how the action is first but that's just me!

That's a very smart suggestion. Early on making one of my custom basses, I had it finished (painted) before doing a working assembly. After assembling it there was a few major things that needed addressing and after addressing them it had to be refinished. Live & learn. Now, I set it up in the early stages to make sure it's all good before getting to the final finishing stage.

And there are many YouTube tutorials on replacing the tr. It seems daunting but as long as the OP has some basic shop-skills & patience, it's pretty straight forward. That is.., if the neck doesn't have any issues like warping, twisting or bowing. These also can be addressed, but I wouldn't recommend it for a novice. There's a company in the mid-west that I can recommend as they corrected a very 'basket-case' vintage neck with their steaming process.

As far as the nut goes, making your own nut is not difficult (again, if you have a basic shop/files) but you can buy them on eBay all day long.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

Some early assessments. Body and neck for the age in good shape wood wise. Is the unknown black paint in the body. The Giant issue is the nut broke off.
View attachment 7457872
So I'll have to pull the fret board and put a new rod in. Ill look at stew mac to see if they have anything to help with this repair. I remember seeing a tool video about something like this. Or a pull the fretboard and put a new rod in.

The opening in the back is not a battery compartment. Something under the bridge area.View attachment 7457873
The neck is maple (correct for the year) just stained.

No cracks or deep damage on the neck or body. Someone did take out the three posts for the factory bridge and put wood dowels in. Looks like they had a badass 2 bridge in there.
View attachment 7457874
I will have to get this black paint off. Looks like they painted over the old finish.
So far it is what I paid for. No complaints.... Yet

I think you mean this one. Looks like there’s a sale on right now buuuut the Gibson one is out of stock. Sorry.

StewMac Truss Rod Rescue Tool Sets - StewMac

Repair a broken or cross-threaded truss rod. These tools will save your neck!

www.stewmac.com

I know it’s popular to bag on the three point bridge on here and people have Hipshots ordered before they even start looking to buy a Gibson but I have three or four basses with the good ol’ oil derek and no issues and they sound fine. There’s a specific difference or two with setup but they work fine. Guess I’m a Neanderthal.

 

[DavidEdenAria]

That's a very smart suggestion. Early on making one of my custom basses, I had it finished (painted) before doing a working assembly. After assembling it there was a few major things that needed addressing and after addressing them it had to be refinished. Live & learn. Now, I set it up in the early stages to make sure it's all good before getting to the final finishing stage.

And there are many YouTube tutorials on replacing the tr. It seems daunting but as long as the OP has some basic shop-skills & patience, it's pretty straight forward. That is.., if the neck doesn't have any issues like warping, twisting or bowing. These also can be addressed, but I wouldn't recommend it for a novice. There's a company in the mid-west that I can recommend as they corrected a very 'basket-case' vintage neck with their steaming process.

As far as the nut goes, making your own nut is not difficult (again, if you have a basic shop/files) but you can buy them on eBay all day long.

Well mentioning neck twists I had a early 70's Les Paul Custom I got duped the neck had a slight twist.

Anyhow a new trussrod seems easy enough but then the frets condition is important.

I mean you could go deep in the rabbit hole so I would assemble first and then assess.

 

[JIO]

Well mentioning neck twists I had a early 70's Les Paul Custom I got duped the neck had a slight twist.

Anyhow a new trussrod seems easy enough but then the frets condition is important.

I mean you could go deep in the rabbit hole so I would assemble first and then assess.

Hah! Duped indeed - join the club! This pic was conveniently left out of the eBay auction pics... luckily I had experience/skill to fix it which I did, but that eBayer was given a negative feedback w/explicit explanation why.

'68 Silvertone (Dano) 1443 Hornet - a rockin' bass!

FTR - not our drum kit... (or name)

 

[JIO]

I know it’s popular to bag on the three point bridge on here and people have Hipshots ordered before they even start looking to buy a Gibson but I have three or four basses with the good ol’ oil derek and no issues and they sound fine. There’s a specific difference or two with setup but they work fine. Guess I’m a Neanderthal.

There's examples of players like you who are happy with the Gibson three-point Matt. The Hipshot Supertone (and now there are others) are well designed drop-in replacements if needed. I would never start with the Gibson 3-point, but I probably would leave it if on a strictly vintage restoration... but whatever works for the player right?