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Gibson EB-3 restoration....

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I think you mean this one. Looks like there’s a sale on right now buuuut the Gibson one is out of stock. Sorry.


I know it’s popular to bag on the three point bridge on here and people have Hipshots ordered before they even start looking to buy a Gibson but I have three or four basses with the good ol’ oil derek and no issues and they sound fine. There’s a specific difference or two with setup but they work fine. Guess I’m a Neanderthal.
Matt,
I don't have any of the original hardware. So I have clean slate. So I was hoping to use what I already have. But if I have buy, I'll just go hipshot.
The big issue right now is the truss rod. And the hady dandy tool at Stew Mac is Ridiculously expensive. And for a one use operation, it is unjustified to get.
 
Matt,
I don't have any of the original hardware. So I have clean slate. So I was hoping to use what I already have. But if I have buy, I'll just go hipshot.
The big issue right now is the truss rod. And the hady dandy tool at Stew Mac is Ridiculously expensive. And for a one use operation, it is unjustified to get.


I understand on the tool. I was mostly curious what they were asking these days. Is there a repair person locally who might have one they can wave around your neck? The cost might offset the effort of removing the fretboard. If you do go the remove the fretboard route please document it for us.
 
Matt,
I don't have any of the original hardware. So I have clean slate. So I was hoping to use what I already have. But if I have buy, I'll just go hipshot.
The big issue right now is the truss rod. And the hady dandy tool at Stew Mac is Ridiculously expensive. And for a one use operation, it is unjustified to get.
How much is the tool? You can always resell for a small loss possibly?

The trussrod is priority...I have removed a fretboard on a Japan Les Paul copy years ago but it was already loose and I used hide glue I'm fairly certain the bottled version.

That Les Paul copy turned out great too I couldn't believe it!
 
How much is the tool? You can always resell for a small loss possibly?

The trussrod is priority...I have removed a fretboard on a Japan Les Paul copy years ago but it was already loose and I used hide glue I'm fairly certain the bottled version.

That Les Paul copy turned out great too I couldn't believe it!


The sale price is about $360. The regular price is about $430.
 
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So fret board off and new trust rod it is going to be. Looking at the 18" u channel truss rod at stew mac. Any recommendations?
I think you need a gibson 'style' replacement as it's a single-acting single rod. That said, I don't know where you can get them in bass lengths. If this were mine to repair, I'd be getting a 24" long 3/16" stainless rod, cutting threads and then using something like StewMac's 'traditional truss rod nut' (brass acorn nut), cut threads on it and make up an anchor nut to mount inside the neck. Gibson uses a thinner rod than 3/16" though, so you can't use a Gibson nut or anchor if you use a 'traditional' style TR. It's less than a 1/2mm difference though, so it should still fit inside the slot with a little finagling.

It's probably worth watching a few videos of the exact process in order to get a sense of the work and the operations. It's not rocket surgery, but it's a bit finicky. :thumbsup:
 
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I think you need a gibson 'style' replacement as it's a single-acting single rod. That said, I don't know where you can get them in bass lengths. If this were mine to repair, I'd be getting a 24" long 3/16" stainless rod, cutting threads and then using something like StewMac's 'traditional truss rod nut' (brass acorn nut), cut threads on it and make up an anchor nut to mount inside the neck. Gibson uses a thinner rod than 3/16" though, so you can't use a Gibson nut or anchor if you use a 'traditional' style TR. It's less than a 1/2mm difference though, so it should still fit inside the slot with a little finagling.

It's probably worth watching a few videos of the exact process in order to get a sense of the work and the operations. It's not rocket surgery, but it's a bit finicky. :thumbsup:
I have watched quite a few videos already. My issue again that I run into here with your suggestion is lack of tools. I don't own any tap and die sets. Not that I am experienced with them either.
 
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Started heating the paint off. Then the boss needs a walk.
 

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So I guess is get to buy some some tap and die tools.

Have you read through my long thread, all about making your own truss rods?


Like Matt said, it probably has a old-style SASR (Single Acting Single Rod) style rod right now. You can buy those kits at places like Stew-Mac, or it's easy to make up your own. It should go in with minimal mods to the neck.

Or, you can buy one of the modern-style DADR (Double Acting Double Rod) truss rods. But you'll need to do some routing on the neck to fit it in. The slot needs to be routed to an even depth of about 3/8" to 7/16", depending on the model of truss rod. It's not real difficult to do the routing.

So, it's your choice. Would you rather do some metalworking, or woodworking?
 
Someone will know more than me. Because well, I’ve forgotten😁 The back cavity maybe for a Varitone coil or choke or dummy coil to hum cancel. Like any or every Gibson bass they changed stuff up fairly regularly.

Thats going to need a new rod. The rescue kit works but I think that’s too far gone. Dan Earlwine has an old video out there about biasing the neck slightly before glueing the board back on. While he’s glueing up a guitar there might be some useful tips in there. Basically the gist was as I recall to build in just a little back bow so that the TR worked correctly or wasn’t unloaded with the correct relief. It might be worth searching for.


I have no idea if this is the same harness as your bass or if that silver box connected to the Varitone sat in the main control cavity or the rout out back. Your saying that rout is factory so something went there.
 
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Someone will know more than me. Because well, I’ve forgotten😁 The back cavity maybe for a Varitone coil or choke or dummy coil to hum cancel. Like any or every Gibson bass they changed stuff up fairly regularly.

Thats going to need a new rod. The rescue kit works but I think that’s too far gone. Dan Earlwine has an old video out there about biasing the neck slightly before glueing the board back on. While he’s glueing up a guitar there might be some useful tips in there. Basically the gist was as I recall to build in just a little back bow so that the TR worked correctly or wasn’t unloaded with the correct relief. It might be worth searching for.


I have no idea if this is the same harness as your bass or if that silver box connected to the Varitone sat in the main control cavity or the rout out back. Your saying that rout is factory so something went there.
Yeah, like I have stated. I'm in no hurry to get this bass done. I know the video you are talking about.
I'm about to commit to getting the fretboard off. @Matt Liebenau ask me to document it. So I was getting everything ready for that.
But I have a Spring honey-do list a mile long. Happy wife, happy something or other.
I found this on reverb.
Gibson EB3 Custom Harness w/ Varitone and powered choke, adjustable treble bleed and more! Gibson EB3 Custom Harness w/ Varitone and powered choke, adjustable treble bleed and more! | Reverb