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Gnomeratron VTF - a nasty muff with blend: prototype review
- Thread starter jrmy
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Bypass LED circuit on a breadboard. Checked with other LEDs as well. Works great-- has an electronic shunt to help block oscillation and any other bleed-through when bypassed.
Also, the clean blend circuit cranked into the output booster turned full gain (which is VERY distorted) rates at 3.5 volts when playing. A very loud passive bass signal is about 350mV. Yep. It's loud. ^_^
Bypass LED circuit on a breadboard. Checked with other LEDs as well. Works great-- has an electronic shunt to help block oscillation and any other bleed-through when bypassed.
Also, the clean blend circuit cranked into the output booster turned full gain (which is VERY distorted) rates at 3.5 volts when playing. A very loud passive bass signal is about 350mV. Yep. It's loud. ^_^
I wish I understood more about this electronics stuff, but then I have a mate that can explain if I need him to
On a sidetrack what's the cam and lens on that pic? I regularly just let the guests use my 40D + Sigma 30mm set at f1.4 at parties - yields enough good results to warrant the crap. actually the good results probably outnumber the crap
Volts: I do get the volts bit though....
Nikon D3000 + 18-55 kit lens. 55mm, f/5.6, 1.6 sec, rear sync flash (-1.7eV flash comp), ISO 800. ... that is, if I remember right. It's something like that.
It's a very simple circuit. It's just so that I can use the better, smaller switches and still have true bypass and an LED.
It's a very simple circuit. It's just so that I can use the better, smaller switches and still have true bypass and an LED.
Haha. Thanks. I think a lot of the bokeh is just motion blur, really.
I got the bypass circuit layout done today, and may have worked out finances so that I can order parts despite paypal.
Now I'm just working out ways to make the insides as neat as possible, given people will actually be going inside to change the diodes out and all.
Maybe wire colour should match the graphics? xD
Is there anyone that needs a battery clip? I was thinking of going the Fuzzhugger/Dwarfcraft rout and just leaving them out all together. I won't if it's a big deal, though. I've just seen (and "repaired") a few pedals that were shorted by rogue battery clips, and they're really a lot of money after a while.
I got the bypass circuit layout done today, and may have worked out finances so that I can order parts despite paypal.
Now I'm just working out ways to make the insides as neat as possible, given people will actually be going inside to change the diodes out and all.
Maybe wire colour should match the graphics? xD
Is there anyone that needs a battery clip? I was thinking of going the Fuzzhugger/Dwarfcraft rout and just leaving them out all together. I won't if it's a big deal, though. I've just seen (and "repaired") a few pedals that were shorted by rogue battery clips, and they're really a lot of money after a while.
Eric!
Commercial User
Eric!
Commercial User
Yes I know and I usually feel a little guilty when I buy them anymore but I've had a few time where it really came in handy. Plus might as well tell everyone to stop using active basses with batteries...
Eric!
Commercial User
Normal batteries are filthy. I'd really encourage everyone to stop using them. You can get good, rechargeable lithium polymer batteries here:
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10 bucks for the 350mAH battery, 10 bucks for the charger... that's two Duracells at Walgreen. They bigger ones haven't been in stock for a long time.
Beyond the environmental impact of the batteries, they require me to split my jack order, reducing the bulk discount. And I have to buy clips. And I have to buy holders (because I don't want the battery flopping around). But that's just my end, and the cost per pedal really isn't very high.
I've been doing a bit of research for a cost-effective way to make rechargeable pedals that could easily be retrofitted into existing pedals. So far, no luck, but I'm still looking. I'd imagine you could just reverse-engineer the charger on the site I linked above and use those batteries.
Getting more into the environmental stuff, the finishing process on these pedals is 100% solid (no VOCs) other than the glue used on the labels (I'm looking for a new one-- this will do for now).
I tried to find recycled aluminum enclosures. pedalenclosures.com has some really nice ones, but I can't deal with the sloped face for this design. I'm hoping Hammond is a fairly responsible company. The ones I'm using say "Made in EU" on them. I'd assume the environmental laws are much stricter there than even the US, and especially China where most enclosures come from (made by New Sensor/EHX). If I find reasonably priced recycled hammond clones, I'll try them out.
After some research on solder, the most environmentally friendly is a lead free Tin/Copper alloy, according an EPA report. I'm using Tin/Copper/Silver, which is apparently the worst because of how filthy silver mining is. I didn't know that at the time I bought it, but I have it now. It's a bit better, as solder, than the standard Tin/Copper. If the silver is recycled, the environmental impact is much less significant. I'll likely switch over once I run out-- I don't think the differences will really matter in a stomp box.
The gnomes are total hippies. They get into this stuff. I just wish I could keep them from hittin' the bong at work.
I like to have an option. I use power adapter 99% of the time, but sometimes I like to grab only one fuzz box with me and battery is the way to go (especially that I've got my VooDoo mounted under my PT). Besides you can run your fuzz on battery for months, especially if it doesn't use a led.
I hear ya. I took a fuzz to Guitar Center to test amps, and the battery really helped.
I haven't measured the current draw of this pedal. It'll use more current in the LED than normal (running hotter-- have had one sitting on for a couple of days, so far no issues). If I can source super cheap trim pots, I'll make the LEDs dimmable, though. You know... to set the mood.
You can wire up a battery clip to a plug and use batteries externally for when they're really needed. You can make it look pretty pro by using a little plastic box for the battery and a patch cable. But I understand that's not as pretty or convenient.
Then again, neither is taking the lid off to change a battery... or finding an old battery your forgot about has exploded all over the inside of your pedal (I've had that happen TWICE on used pedals I didn't realize had batteries in them).
I haven't measured the current draw of this pedal. It'll use more current in the LED than normal (running hotter-- have had one sitting on for a couple of days, so far no issues). If I can source super cheap trim pots, I'll make the LEDs dimmable, though. You know... to set the mood.
You can wire up a battery clip to a plug and use batteries externally for when they're really needed. You can make it look pretty pro by using a little plastic box for the battery and a patch cable. But I understand that's not as pretty or convenient.
Then again, neither is taking the lid off to change a battery... or finding an old battery your forgot about has exploded all over the inside of your pedal (I've had that happen TWICE on used pedals I didn't realize had batteries in them).
I'd prefer mine without a battery. I cull all the batteries from my pedals anyway.
No need for a clip.
No need for a clip.
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