This alnico/ceramic difference is not trivial. Gotta vote for alnico.
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This alnico/ceramic difference is not trivial. Gotta vote for alnico.
its not really subjective. The 3-band has a low pass filter that is not on a the 2-band. So, the 2-bands have more available lows on tap and a smoother top end than the 3-band.
However, what is subjective is whether or not that makes the 2-band "better". The 3-band pre gives a tighter and more aggressive tone with a pretty hefty amount of bass still available. However, dialing out the brightness can be difficult. The 2-band is naturally smoother and the highs are easier to control, though it's still plenty bright if you crank the highs. But it lacks the midrange twang that makes more modern stingrays cut through in a busy mix.
FWIW, I have had 3 SR5s (one of each kind, the pre-2018 version, the classic, and currently own a Special) plus a 4-string Ray with the 2-band and I have also never had an issue with the weak G. Not saying those who have had the issue are wrong, but it's not a universal
I'm a P Bass guy too. I bought a EBMM Stingray 4 back in 1993 and it soon became my main bass and still is to this day. I call it a "magnum" (the CALIBER not the condom size) precision. It boldly goes where a lot of basses do not with plenty of clarity and punch. Cuts right through the mix. I have the 3 band model and I really like being able to boost the mids when the situation calls for it. Search for a used one.
I think the Ray34 (not the SUB) is perhaps one of the best values out there. It is a Stringray, it plays great, it sounds like a Stingray. The price is less than half of the USA version and the bass is totally pro. THE same CNC program cuts the bodies & necks as the USA version. The final setup is done in the USA at the EB St Luis Obispo, CA, plant. I own an EBMM SR5 Special and a Ray35. I prefer the Ray35, it plays better, sounds very good. Slightly different than the Special which has different PUPS and Pre, but totally slamming in its own right. Play one. Say no more... I can say no more!
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Not to contradict but doesn't a low pass filter take out higher frequencies – meaning the 2 band has more highs on tap than the 3? As far as the rest of what you're saying, I was able to tame some of the overly bright harshness or nasaly tone by using EB cobalt flats on mine, which gave me the sound I wanted. The Broughton HPF/LPF tightens up the low end and I keep the LPF at its lowest setting so it doesn't do much.
I might have my terminology backwards but the 3-band filters out the deepest lows while the 2-band does not. Both preamps give you the Stingray tone, it's just the default tone of each one is different. Which is why people have strong preferences for one or the other.
Got one. Great bass for sure! but doesn't sound like a MM. In my opinion only a stingray sounds like a stingray. Get an old used MM....can't go wrong.
^^^^ THIS ^^^^^
G&L Basses do not sound like a Stingray.
Ibanez ATK's do not sound like a Stingray.
The OLP basses do not sound like a StingRay.
All the other various active two soapbar pickup basses that people say cop a StingRay sound don't sound like a StingRay.
The Sterling by MusicMan basses do sound like a Stingray because the secret sauce was designed into them.
The USA SUB Basses from 2000-2003 are StingRays and they sound awesome for less than the price of the regular StingRays.
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There's nailing a tone, and then there's getting in the same ballpark; I never claimed other instruments nailed the Stingray tone. I'd still like to try more proper Stingrays (and similar), but in my limited experiences with them (including some nice ones), I found I preferred my ATK, FWIW. Overall, I think 'Ray-ish is the best general concept for a rock bass this side of the Precision, and I like the sounds of most 'Ray-ish instruments (including proper Stingrays, to be perfectly clear).
Hi I would definitely make sure you play the Ray and that is the one you buy... Some things to consider As has been mentioned:
the G string is notorious for being too close to the edge of the fretboard and Ernie Ball won't fix it.
There are a lot of dead D and G string notes on some of their rays. And they won't fix that or replace the neck. I have an email from them after a neck replacement that states" any tonal characteristics are inherent and not subject to warranty repair"
Bottom line is make sure you play the bass that you will be buying.!!
Good luck!!
That front fork looks wrong, they were a solid steel fork that was much less round (flat blades), that pic has a fork with the modern round hollow tubes.I use to have a StingRay years ago. It had 20" wheels and a banana seat. I think the color was Toluco Lake Blue...
View attachment 3983213
Oh wait.... we are talking basses here, not bikes. My bad.
And in those days, the bikes (all other brands) that has hollow round tube forks, they still had much more taper from top to bottom.
Is that some kind of Schwinn re-issue?
Here is a real 60's StingRay frame.
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I mean, that's the plan, but it can be hard when you're looking for a used model that's out of production. Based on what I've read here, I don't think I would buy a EBMM that I never held in my hands, but a $450-500 Sterling? Maybe?
Yes it is a HPF and filters out 'unusable' low frequency as to not drain amps power for frequency that can't be reproduced that also can cause some havoc with Speaker if cranked. Many High Quality Amps use HPF'S as do most recording/mixing boards Also such as Mesa.
While I have never heard 2 bands playing lower frequencies than 3 band or having more Bass in my experience, 2 band set to your preference may have perceived deeper tone than three band's you have heard or played; but HPF on 3 band is not culprit. More Bass is not lower Bass, may want to set 3 band way you use 2 band for bass and treble then reduce mids slowly and see what you get. I am not sure but 3 band preamp may be voiced different as to Bass/Treble frequency's.
I played the Classic today. It was a truly beautiful. It's 9 lb, 12 oz—which is heavier than I'd like, on paper, but it didn't feel uncomfortable and I totally get that this is normal for this model.
One thing that surprised me was that, in contrast to the Sterlings I've played (an old S.U.B. with the ugly block logo, the Ray4 and the Ray24CA), the EQ knobs did not have a center detent. I guess that's part of the "classic" design.
I liked the sound to a large extent, but I also found it kind of unforgiving, once I had dialed up the high band a bit to get that bright, snappy StingRay tone. I could see all the (stainless steel) string buzz and fret noise being useful for cutting through a thick and aggressive mix, but in isolation, it kind of made me sound like I suck (and I probably do, to an extent). My P's hide my warts a bit better, even with rounds. Would different rounds really make that much of a difference?
To sum up: I wouldn't mind taking the Classic home and finding a place where I and it and meet in the middle to make something cool. But I'm not convinced that adventure is worth $1700. Looking to get ahold of a Ray34CA...
One thing that surprised me was that, in contrast to the Sterlings I've played (an old S.U.B. with the ugly block logo, the Ray4 and the Ray24CA), the EQ knobs did not have a center detent. I guess that's part of the "classic" design.
I liked the sound to a large extent, but I also found it kind of unforgiving, once I had dialed up the high band a bit to get that bright, snappy StingRay tone. I could see all the (stainless steel) string buzz and fret noise being useful for cutting through a thick and aggressive mix, but in isolation, it kind of made me sound like I suck (and I probably do, to an extent). My P's hide my warts a bit better, even with rounds. Would different rounds really make that much of a difference?
To sum up: I wouldn't mind taking the Classic home and finding a place where I and it and meet in the middle to make something cool. But I'm not convinced that adventure is worth $1700. Looking to get ahold of a Ray34CA...
And a set of D'Addario Chromes Flats or Ernie Ball Cobalt Flats to keep the snappy tone but without the round wound fret noise and zing that you are not enjoying.
You don't need stainless steel strings with a StingRay IMO.
The choices to save money and still have proper StingRay sound:
EBMM USA (2000-2003) SUB Bass (StingRay)
The recently discontinued Sterling Ray 34CA
The new Sterling Ray 24CA.
