• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

GR Bass Natural Fiber cabs

As I've already explained, and as other users have commented, it's true that other brands can copy our technology, but why make life easy by explaining how we make our technology?
I prefer not to explain the technical aspects but just to say that the panels are made of natural and recycled materials.
Logically there are not only natural or recycled materials, for example the woofers are our custom shop SICA, the bars, the angles and the feet are the same as the carbon series. But the structure is really eco friendly.

Thanks for the explanation.

The eco-friendly aspect could be detailed further.

Eco-conception should take into account the whole life cycle of the product.

I understand the source material is eco-friendly (linen fiber and recycled plastic).

But what about the ease of repair, and end of life recycling?
 
As for the repair depends on what is to be repaired and the extent of the damage.
This applies to any type of material and product, so I would not know how to answer you.
For the recycling aspect, however, I can tell you that we collaborate with a company that completely recycles our production waste.
For the end user, however, the problem does not currently arise.
Who buys a cabinet thinking that they will have to recycle it?
I honestly believe and hope that our cabinets can last you a lifetime.
What is really eco-friendly for us is helping the environment in production.
Production takes place now, recycling cannot be known, maybe it will never happen.


Thanks for the explanation.

The eco-friendly aspect could be detailed further.

Eco-conception should take into account the whole life cycle of the product.

I understand the source material is eco-friendly (linen fiber and recycled plastic).

But what about the ease of repair, and end of life recycling?
 
As for the repair depends on what is to be repaired and the extent of the damage.
This applies to any type of material and product, so I would not know how to answer you.
For the recycling aspect, however, I can tell you that we collaborate with a company that completely recycles our production waste.
For the end user, however, the problem does not currently arise.
Who buys a cabinet thinking that they will have to recycle it?
I honestly believe and hope that our cabinets can last you a lifetime.
What is really eco-friendly for us is helping the environment in production.
Production takes place now, recycling cannot be known, maybe it will never happen.

Thanks for your reply, good to know you recycle your production waste.

I respectfully dissagree on the other points:
  • Ease of repair is important.
    • Should something happen to my cab (let's imagine I blow a speaker), can I ask to a local technician to repair it, or will I be obliged to send the cab back to you in Italy?
    • Is the grill cloth removable? (I don't think so). Can anybody access to the internal of the cab?
  • End of life: like it or not, no cab is eternal, it will eventually die. I admit that the recycling technologies are advancing, and we don't know yet what recycling process will be available when the cab reaches end-of-life, nor am I saying that any company builds cabs that are already easy to recycle, but nevertheless, some materials (wood) are easier to recycle than others, and some construction principles make it easier to separate the different materials. I'm not sure NF cabs are easy to disassemble?
 
Replacing a woofer is extremely simple and has nothing to do with the material of the structure.
You can go directly to the store where you purchased the product.
The grid can be removed, just pull it out by inserting a small tool in the space between the grid and the cabinet.
In factory we use a small screwdriver with the flat tip bent like a hook.
From the next release we will put a ribbon that will help the grip.
What I mean about the end of life of a crate is that it is not as important a factor as the creation of the cabinet itself.
How many cabinets have you recycled since you play bass?
I honestly haven't recycled anyone yet.
This does not mean that it is not important, but simply that recycling techniques continue to change and improve, what is really needed is to optimize the production phases.



Thanks for your reply, good to know you recycle your production waste.

I respectfully dissagree on the other points:
  • Ease of repair is important.
    • Should something happen to my cab (let's imagine I blow a speaker), can I ask to a local technician to repair it, or will I be obliged to send the cab back to you in Italy?
    • Is the grill cloth removable? (I don't think so). Can anybody access to the internal of the cab?
  • End of life: like it or not, no cab is eternal, it will eventually die. I admit that the recycling technologies are advancing, and we don't know yet what recycling process will be available when the cab reaches end-of-life, nor am I saying that any company builds cabs that are already easy to recycle, but nevertheless, some materials (wood) are easier to recycle than others, and some construction principles make it easier to separate the different materials. I'm not sure NF cabs are easy to disassemble?
 
I wonder how many have asked these questions about the recycling process for their Ampeg, Mesa, Bergantino, Markbass, Aguilar, Fender, Genzler, Hartke, Ashdown, Trace… etc. etc.

The idea that GR is innovating with NF and cutting the overall weight are good things, hard to understand all of the scrutiny here over recycling.

As for durability, with my CF cab (AT212), the only thing that I have noticed is that for the screws on the rubber feet at the bottom of the cab… these should probably been installed with T-nuts inside with machine screws vs a wood screw going into the soft interior of the CF panel. Easily remedied however.
 
Vendors should expect questions like these -- especially for new construction materials or techniques. Look, we're all bass nerds. We "need" to know this stuff! I recall similar navel gazing when Dave "Greenboy" Green's fEarFul plans spawned all kinds of discussions about standard plywood vs. thinner Okoume wood, etc. etc. TalkBass would shrivel and die from lack of important details like these! If the details aren't there, the bots can't find the site, search engines erase us, and ergo, we all shrivel and die from boredom. So essentially answers to these questions are matters of life and death. So to speak.
 
Which version you have?
Carbon fiber with or without tolex?
The AT212 with Carbon Fiber and Tolex.

I immediately replaced the tiny little rubber feet with proper rubber feet, but after about 4-5 months of use the screws are loose and the fiber panel is soft. So I suppose I could fill the hole with lock tight or CA or install some T-nuts on the inside and use machine screws, which seems more permanent.
IMG_1825.jpeg
IMG_1811.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Murch
This is the very first version of carbon fiber cabinets.
They were not built with a single folded carbon panel but were more glued panels.
For this reason, the current version is much more durable.
In addition, both the corners and the feet have been modified.
They're basically two completely different projects.
If you need to replace the corners and feet send us an email to [email protected].
We'll send you the new ones for free.



The AT212 with Carbon Fiber and Tolex.

I immediately replaced the tiny little rubber feet with proper rubber feet, but after about 4-5 months of use the screws are loose and the fiber panel is soft. So I suppose I could fill the hole with lock tight or CA or install some T-nuts on the inside and use machine screws, which seems more permanent.
View attachment 5166107 View attachment 5166108
 
I wonder how many have asked these questions about the recycling process for their Ampeg, Mesa, Bergantino, Markbass, Aguilar, Fender, Genzler, Hartke, Ashdown, Trace… etc. etc.

Actually, we do get asked about end of life disposal/recycling regularly, I answered this recently in the Subway thread.

Yes, as part of the requirements of the EU's eco-directive, this is very much a part of the design process.
 
One thing I noticed about the natural cab vs. the carbon is the tweeter can be shut off. It also has the three way switch as well. Almost tempted by one but the weight is also a touch more. I got my carbon 1x10" from Bass Direct last year and couldn't be happier.
Hi!
I have been considering one of those 1x10 cabs. Does it enough volume to play in a band? Even if the drummer is somewhat loud? Or is it just a practice set up?
Thanks!
 
People come in natural coverings, which vary quite a bit in color. I don' t complain if the picture and the reality don't match up perfectly. I think this matters about as much - it's a NATURAL covering, it could be a photography thing, it could be each one is a bit different. I have built a bunch of basses from swamp ash - natural coverings on all of them. No two look alike.
 
Hi!
I have been considering one of those 1x10 cabs. Does it enough volume to play in a band? Even if the drummer is somewhat loud? Or is it just a practice set up?
Thanks!

I play with it in big bands and have played clubs with it with my own band. It's 300/350 watts (forget the exact measurement). It's plenty loud. You need to worry more about what amp you're using to push it to get the volume you need.
 
I play with it in big bands and have played clubs with it with my own band. It's 300/350 watts (forget the exact measurement). It's plenty loud. You need to worry more about what amp you're using to push it to get the volume you need.

All their cabs are available in 4 ohm or 8 ohm version, so be careful.
If you have a 800 W amp, take the 8 ohm version, you will get approx 400 W from the amp @ 8 ohm, and then you can add a second 8 ohm cab to get 800 W @ 4 ohm
But if you have a 350 W amp or less, get the 4 ohm version of the cab
 
Last edited:
All their cabs are available in 4 ohm or 8 ohm version, so be careful.
If you have a 800 W amp, take the 8 ohm version, you will get approx 400 W from the amp @ 8 ohm, and then you can add a second 8 ohm cab to get 800 W @ 4 ohm
But if you have a 350 W amp or less, get the 4 ohm version of the cab

Why doesn't an 800 watt amp @ 8 ohms put 800 watts into an 8ohm cabinet rated for 800 watts? Your math is unclear.

I'm going through this exercise right now. I have a QSC PLX 3602 stereo amplifier rated for 775 watts at 8 ohms and 1,250 watts @ 4 ohm -- for each channel. If I get two 8 ohm 212+Slim cabs each rated for 900 watts, I would run them in parallel, one off of each channel and feed 775 watts into each cab, which is well within the drivers' limits. In fact, this is the recommendation I just received from GR.
 
Why doesn't an 800 watt amp @ 8 ohms put 800 watts into an 8ohm cabinet rated for 800 watts? Your math is unclear.

I'm going through this exercise right now. I have a QSC PLX 3602 stereo amplifier rated for 775 watts at 8 ohms and 1,250 watts @ 4 ohm -- for each channel. If I get two 8 ohm 212+Slim cabs each rated for 900 watts, I would run them in parallel, one off of each channel and feed 775 watts into each cab, which is well within the drivers' limits. In fact, this is the recommendation I just received from GR.

Sorry for the misunderstanding - when I say "800 W amp", I mean "800 W @ 4 ohm / 350 W or 400 W @ 8 ohm", because it's an industry standard to simply call "800 W" such amp.
 
All their cabs are available in 4 ohm or 8 ohm version, so be careful.
If you have a 800 W amp, take the 8 ohm version, you will get approx 400 W from the amp @ 8 ohm, and then you can add a second 8 ohm cab to get 800 W @ 4 ohm
But if you have a 350 W amp or less, get the 4 ohm version of the cab

I am a fan of matching ohms to cabs. I'm not looking for another cab. I have a 4 ohm cab and a 4 ohm head.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: gtirard
I am a fan of matching ohms to cabs. I'm not looking for another cab. I have a 4 ohm cab and a 4 ohm head.
Often, an 8 ohm cabinet is a better power match to larger amps, and 2 x 8 ohm cabinets when you need even more volume.