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GrassRoots Bass-IV

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Polished aluminum has such a nice substantial finished look and feel. Warmer and more functional in an industrial sense than chrome.

I will eventually have it pro-polished to a mirror finish, but yes - it will stay warmer in appearance. Mirrored plastic has its place - but not in place of chromed nickel steel. (or mirror polished aluminum)
 
I will eventually have it pro-polished to a mirror finish, but yes - it will stay warmer in appearance. Mirrored plastic has its place - but not in place of chromed nickel steel. (or mirror polished aluminum)
Another reason aluminum is nice. It’s versatile. If one wants it to be shiny or dull, it will comply. The way you have it there is how i like my aluminum. Looking forward to seeing how it looks polished further though.
 
Another reason aluminum is nice. It’s versatile. If one wants it to be shiny or dull, it will comply. The way you have it there is how i like my aluminum. Looking forward to seeing how it looks polished further though.

It still will look like aluminum compared to chromed steel - it will just eliminate all fine sanding marks. I have a current custom bass I'm working on with an aluminum pg & control plate so once I find someone, I'll do them all at the same time.
 
Since Marcus (OP) hasn't been seen since Mar 26, 2012 (nearly 10 yrs ago!)... I guess I'll take the reins of this thread (started on Dec 3rd 08 - 14 yrs ago!) from here-on-in.... show your Bass IV here! :bassist: I want to see a 3TSB version, and the first version with an alder body. :)
 
Jio! Looks fantastic mate, great job so far! But I was wondering, why the decal replacement? Not that it takes anything a way, I'm just wondering. Is one version rarer than the other? Or do you just like the Bass IV over the grassroots logo? or what?:D
 
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Jio! Looks fantastic mate, great job so far! But I was wondering, why the decal replacement? Not that it takes anything a way, I'm just wondering. Is one version rarer than the other? Or do you just like the Bass IV over the grassroots logo? or what?:D

:) Thanks! Mostly I'm a design geek. I felt the Grass Roots decal didn't follow-thru the retro vibe referencing the Fender VI. If someone (a guitarist) who knew about the Fender VI saw it, they would 'get' the reference. I could have gotten fussy with the guy who makes custom decals but gave him a pic of the VI (this one) as a reference and let him do his thing. If it were me I would have sized it differently - but I like it a bit horsy. (design term for larger) As you can see I incorporated ESP/GRASS ROOTS/MIK to stay 'on-brand'.

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Perhaps it’s a bass vi sized control plate

Everything for the Jaguar bass, but only pg's for the Fender/Squier VI. Maybe someday. And here I thought Leo was resourceful and used the same plate for a couple of guitars, just reversed. :)

So I saw this on an eBay listing which helps fill in some details about the bass I have. Perhaps the late '90s ESP G-T-64B IV of the L'Arc ~ en ~ Ciel TETSUYA model had metal plates. I've also read the body was alder and it was heavy. (10+ lbs) Mine is 9lbs/4oz and basswood. Basswood is underrated - it's a very good tone wood and generally lighter. It is softer, but I'll accept that for light weight and good tone.

Grass Roots by ESP G-T-64B. It is a cost performance model of the L'Arc ~ en ~ Ciel TETSUYA model released in the late 90's.
 
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both control plates look the same if not close

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yep... but the visual comparison you provided shows how design clever they were in their references - in my book a text-book example of referencing a classic design morphing into a different, but related product. (six string baritone bass into a 4-banger)

I have been playing my Bass IV non-stop - it plays and sounds great. And I have great playing/sounding basses to compare it to...
 
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Cut an aluminum control-cavity plate (to the correct pg interfacing shape - see before pics already posted) and installed the Mustang (250k pots) harness. When I put it back together, everything worked as it should except the treble-boost (bass-cut being passive) switch. ??? Now, switching it doesn't do anything different. I thought I wired it exactly the same and even used the original harness's tone cap as I liked the way it sounded. I'll run it down - must be something I'm not seeing. The MIK Mustang pots have solid shafts and the knobs have a set-screw. (compared to split-shaft pots w/push on knobs) Details, details... but.., now it's been 'upgraded' in all the correct ways.

I will take it to my bands next rehearsal on Wednesday for a test-drive 'in the (live) mix' - I'm pretty sure it'll rock.
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Just figured out the bass-cut switch issue - everything works as it should now and sounds great! Sometimes I feel like a detective...

So this is a cool, a simple effect that can be added to any passive bass - the 4th switch on the Bass IV is a treble-boost switch. How a passive bass does this is that that switch by-passes the circuit directly to the + tab of the jack. It disconnects the volume and tone control (but they still both operate correctly) which in turn makes it brighter and louder. I can see this simple mod being useful on most passive basses. It's not crazy different - just a bit of a definition goose when needed.

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The last piece of the upgrade puzzle - Gotoh Res-O-Lite tuners. All specs put them in the right ballpark to work. If I'm lucky they will be a drop-in, and they are nickel! :thumbsup: Gotoh makes some of the best tuners out there.

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