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Green Wood: Time to Cut Bait!

I agree - I like my roasted necks, but the one that I have that isn't roasted is a Mighty Mite fretless (Warmoth doesn't do ebonol fingerboards), and I applied the same logic - even if I have to buy 3, it's not more than one really good neck costs. In this case, I won the lottery - neck "1 is straight after 5 years. I do think that your mental approach is a bit flawed, in that once you buy 3 or 4 necks (even cheap ones) one of them is bound to not twist (or twist so little that it plays just fine) - maybe you'll want to level the frets or something, but I'd guess you will eventually, assuming you take decent care of things, get a good neck.

Agreed, I was going for the worst case scenario.
 
A Wiseman named Erlewine once told me; "Never put your guitar where you wouldn't put a 2 year old!"

I've found that advise has worked for me over time. I also tend to shy away from cheap junk after my first "Aspen" Bass. After that it's been professional instruments and no personal horror stories.

When I do my own setups. I will take a week to do it as I adjust the neck. It hangs on a stand. 1/4 - 1/2 turn on the truss rod and let it sit. Check it the next morning. Repeat as required for best results. Same with a strobe. I also NEVER put the neck on a bench rest. The neck is always free floating.

Of course this is a wood thing not a graphite process except the neck floating during a strobe.

The Bass was alive before it was a Bass! It doesn't know it's a Bass now....
You sounded like Johnny Long at the end.:)
 
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The case insulates it, fluctuations are not as rapid or severe. Imagine yourself sitting under an air conditioner vent naked. Now imagine yourself sitting under an air conditioner vent naked but you're closed up inside a foam-padded, hard-sided suitcase. Which one is warmer?

Warmer / colder for a bit, perhaps, but humidity is usually the culprit in shifting necks / fret sprout.
 
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I am taking it as a sign to keep my money in my pocket or bank.

I think Squier’s golden age ended with the second and third gen CV’s and VM’s. They’re just not on the same level as the initial run that happened to come at a time when Fender was knocking out of the park across the board. When it comes to budget basses, I still feel Ibanez, and especially Yamaha are very safe bets. Yes, they’re harder to mod, but they mastered the value for dollar element long before Fender took the segment seriously IMO.
 
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I think Squier’s golden age ended with the second and third gen CV’s and VM’s. They’re just not on the same level as the initial run that happened to come at a time when Fender was knocking out of the park across the board. When it comes to budget basses, I still feel Ibanez, and especially Yamaha are very safe bets. Yes, they’re harder to mod, but they mastered the value for dollar element long before Fender took the segment seriously IMO.
I really don’t need anymore budget basses. The one bass I could honestly use would be a quality fretless, like my old Pedulla. That said, I don’t plan on any more bass purchases this year except a nice cab if I find one at a low price. Maybe next year, I can treat myself to a fine fretless.
 
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Which reminds me, Doc...have you come across any of the current BB or 600 series from Yamaha to demo? I’d be interested in your thoughts if so. I’ve owned a couple 600’s and thought they were amazing for the price (though more in the mid-price category) and am very interested in the BB234.
 
Low Cost guitars are made with cheap cuts of wood usually. One of the main reasons they are cheap. There must be sooo many factors that go into warping though. If your neck is finished but part of the neck is not finished.... that area of your guitar's neck is absorbing moisture faster than any other part of the neck.

Copied - When wood has a relatively high moisture content, it shrinks as it dries until it reaches equilibrium with relative humidity, sometimes called equilibrium moisture content (EMC). Conversely, wood with a relatively low moisture content will swell as it absorbs water from the surrounding air until reaching EMC. This direct relationship helps predict how wood will behave as it adjusts to particular conditions.
woodcuts.png
 
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Twice in two years, a lower priced, but high performing Indonesian imports have had wood settle and shift in ways that have severely reduced playability for me. Last year, it was a Squier Classic Vibe Fretless that ended up with a warping neck and uneven fingerboard. Now my SBMM Stingray 5 is having issues. The Squier is gone, but I will take the ‘Ray to a pro luthier since it is a birthday present from my wife. Fortunately, my Squier Contemporary Jazz V HH is stable. Possibly because it is $100-$150 more expensive, plus it was in the shop two years before I bought, so that wood is likely settled. I guess I will just be avoiding these “great deal” budget basses in the future.
You never know doc. I bought a NIB Highway 1 J not long after the series was dropped and the first year it worked but i had to fiddle with it a lot more than my older MIM J’s. I was working a lot at the time and it did fine if I gave it plenty time to adjust to the temp where it would be used but it was wonky enough i didn’t trust it in temp extremes and carried one of my MIM’s to use if we were going to be outside.
Longer story short as time went on the neck settled right down, but it was getting a lot of travel time in the van and the temp changes that go with that so that may have accelerated it’s trip to more stable. It lived in an SKB 44 when not being used and i’d bring it inside if it was going to be really cold or hot at night, but after that first year it started staying in tune better longer. By the end of the second year it needed tuning occasionally but setup stayed good. These days, about 7 years in, it’s set and forget. I always check setup when I change strings and it needs tiny adjustments occasionally and that’s it.​
 
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My worst neck problem was a CIJ Geddy I bought new and kept for about two years before I couldn't take adjusting it constantly. One day it would be fine the next fret buzzing like crazy or a half inch off the 12th fret. Crappiest bass I ever owned.
 
The green wood doesn't burn well, either.
. Greenwood is what you want for making smoke signals and eradicating mosquitoes.

It would not be good to offer that advice to me. I have always said that young children are never a problem if you keep them in the freezer.
I find that young children are fine on long flights as long as you place them in the overhead compartment.

Honestly, I sympathize with you humidity level chasers out there, it's a tall order. I'm moving to Florida soon, and they tell me high humidity environments are far more challenging, especially when combined with salty sea air. Selling off my nice stuff and taking the low budge stuff down there just to be on the safe side.
I live in Florida and yes it gets very humid here but I've never had an issue with corrosion on anything. I have seven and they range from cheap to expensive. The couple that have Tomastik Infeld Jazz Flat strings on them will sometimes sill be in tune after hanging on a rack for a couple of weeks or longer. And if they are not in tune then they are not off by much. This tells me the neck is very stable. I keep them all in an air-conditioned environment but I still have some temp and humidity fluctuation in my home.

Salty air is only an issue if you live within a mile or two of the coast. If you can smell the beach then you'll have salty air and that doesn't travel very far. If you can smell the ocean from your home then you are doing very well financially.
 
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Twice in two years, a lower priced, but high performing Indonesian imports have had wood settle and shift in ways that have severely reduced playability for me. Last year, it was a Squier Classic Vibe Fretless that ended up with a warping neck and uneven fingerboard. Now my SBMM Stingray 5 is having issues. The Squier is gone, but I will take the ‘Ray to a pro luthier since it is a birthday present from my wife. Fortunately, my Squier Contemporary Jazz V HH is stable. Possibly because it is $100-$150 more expensive, plus it was in the shop two years before I bought, so that wood is likely settled. I guess I will just be avoiding these “great deal” budget basses in the future.
I just got a new Squier CV Jazz fretless, swapped out everything but the neck and body with Fender pure vintage hardware and "64 pickups" and I'm over the moon with the result. It had obviously been sitting around the music shop for a while (3 years) like most stock does in New Zealand. Heres hoping if it was going to warp, it would have by now.
 
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I just got a new Squier CV Jazz fretless, swapped out everything but the neck and body with Fender pure vintage hardware and "64 pickups" and I'm over the moon with the result. It had obviously been sitting around the music shop for a while (3 years) like most stock does in New Zealand. Heres hoping if it was going to warp, it would have by now.
Three years in, you should be safe.;)
 
Talking about thin necks, I have an 11 year old ibanez SR755 that I never have to adjust.
Just bought a new mim Fender Jazz 5 Deluxe that I had to do a bit of adjusting to. Keeping my fingers crossed on neck stability.
Considering it was a $1000+ bass I'm counting on it.
 
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Unless you have a pelican / tactical style case, the same humidity / lack of humidity is hitting the instrument in the case as hanging on a hanger or resting on a stand. None of the standard cases are air tight.
It still limits exposure to kids, moisture attacking the strings, attack dogs, mafia. If it falls over in the case, the strings may still get moisture but still at a fractional rate and the bass doesn’t get whacked on the floor.
 
@DirtDog


I keep my basses in my den, a room that is a converted garage. It tends to run cooler in the winter and warmer in the summer because it only has one vent. I usually keep my basses either on a rack or in bags.

Humidity control is probably equally or perhaps more important than temperature control. In something like 2006 or 2007, I cracked a Rob Allen fingerboard a bit because the whole house humidifier wasn't working. That being said, I try to avoid ebony fingerboards on basses. Once I took control of humidity, I found myself adjusting truss rods almost never once things have settled.

Dryness and fluctuations can kill a lot of guitars and basses over time.
 
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