the cab was built with the standard port length so i wonder if anyone has had this problem too,Thanks,Cutty.(i have used it with different amps so it's not that)
Well, if all other testing and options suggested already have been exhausted and you remain convinced it's the driver or the cabinet, you may need to verify the original manufacturer's posted spec's with a woofer tester.
Find someone with the proper equipment and knowledge to test/measure that exact driver, and indeed, you and I both may need some modification to the ports or another of our cabinet's properties for the Faital's to properly do their job. If I have not done all my homework properly in this respect, I should not be concluding this brand is inherently flawed, as I flippantly implied earlier, simply because it was the same brand. Natural to do so, but not the intelligent response. I have not done due diligence, so please, accept my apology for offering disrespectful, unprofessional, uninformed opinions here.
That being said, on previous builds, I've certainly seen some
wild variations of the T/S parameters from OEM spec's when the actual driver you received is tested through proper equipment, (and I'm talking another high-end Italian mfgr, not some bargain basement specials here). Like you, I trusted the printed specs, expedited my build, and have a less than optimal sounding cabinet. And it's likely my fault, and the risk you take building your own gear. This is the homework required to establish if, in fact, that cabinet is crafted 100% accurately for the actual driver in your possession. Factory printed Thiele/Small parameters should be reliable, but manufacturing tolerances can vary.
Then how do the brand names build cabinets with no problems with such variances?
I'll leave it to those in the business to answer that.
But I have a hunch where the off-spec batches get sent to be sold and who's hands they potentially end up in....
Does this mean the amp is
not the culprit? No, but, as re-stated above, from the original post: "(i have used it with different amps so it's not that)". I'm just suggesting, if that's already been concluded, a re-examination of the build and driver spec's may be the only other option.
Just trying to help - I hope I've not ruffled any more feathers. If so, feel free to ask me to drop out of the conversation so a more informed individual can guide you to a resolution.