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Hartke HD150 speaker suddenly stopped working - help.

Tested the Direct output, it is fully functional. Just sent it to a technician for their take on it. Not sure if I'll maintain this amp after this repair. It is brand new comparing to some equipment that I have and use and they never faultered.
The eq, definition and tones are ok, but due to all the problems over the years I really wouldn't recommend this product to anyone. Ampegs may have a clunkier design, behringers are demonized by being cheap and all but I had combos and bass heads of all these brands and never had they just died out without a cause or a warning.
Have you considered that perhaps this may not be inherent to the product, but simple bad luck or the repair previously made was not well done (or missed something)?

You have had one experience, I haven't seen any consistent history of issues with these models myself. That said, the other brands you have mentioned have both had models with significant documented issues, so you really have to be careful with generalizations (even though you may be disappointed that you have had an issue).
 

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Have you considered that perhaps this may not be inherent to the product, but simple bad luck or the repair previously made was not well done (or missed something)?

You have had one experience, I haven't seen any consistent history of issues with these models myself. That said, the other brands you have mentioned have both had models with significant documented issues, so you really have to be careful with generalizations (even though you may be disappointed that you have had an issue).

I can classify my experience with this product as an anectodal evidence, since in order to assert with reasonable certainty about eventual factory or mass product defect I would have to calculate a significant sample size of products purchased and evaluate the customer satisfaction of it.

Being an exception or not, the problem exists and the repair here in Brazil is costly and hard to come by. If only one person find this discussion and end up with the same problem and solution as this amp may demand, this thread at least can ressonate with anyone in the same situation as me.

I like the product, I dislike having no official technical support avaiable in a 1400 km radius and having to expend plenty of money to import spare parts for it. As a consumer, I can't say this product is reliable enough given the lack of proper customer support from this company here (fender, ampeg, gk, all lack of this here, btw, but then again I was misfortunated enough to only experience a faulty unit with this hartke). That said, every brand have their own qualities and problems or shortcomings, both which are indissociable features of any given product or brand.

This is a very easy problem to troubleshoot (for someone who has the correct tools and knowledge).

A man can dream of solving his technical issues with a screwdriver and some duct tape and also can acknoledge his shortcomings and pay a proper technician. I prefer to dream whenever I can instead of paying for repairs, but our waking moments inevitably soon will drag us to reality. I have spread my dreams (of not having to pay a technician) under your feet; tread softly because you tread on my dreams.
 
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Yes, but note the second part of John’s post… knowledge.

Tools and knowledge go hand in hand.
T-ntaZ.gif


:)
 
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Yes, but note the second part of John’s post… knowledge.

Tools and knowledge go hand in hand.
I agree knowledge is needed but I wanted to clarify what level of equipment is being discussed.

I am not suggesting this for other people but for me, I would open it, unplugged, and look at the headphones connector. Since there is some sort of speaker disconnect situation there, it could be important. I would look for a burned out component. I would reseat connectors and circuit boards. There may be a schematic inside that gives further insight to the headphones’ speaker disconnect feature. This is done with power off and a low-level investigation.

The standard disclaimer “take it to a professional” always applies but working on some basic tasks is my style.
 
I agree knowledge is needed but I wanted to clarify what level of equipment is being discussed.

I am not suggesting this for other people but for me, I would open it, unplugged, and look at the headphones connector. Since there is some sort of speaker disconnect situation there, it could be important. I would look for a burned out component. I would reseat connectors and circuit boards. There may be a schematic inside that gives further insight to the headphones’ speaker disconnect feature. This is done with power off and a low-level investigation.

The standard disclaimer “take it to a professional” always applies but working on some basic tasks is my style.
What do you do when you observe a “burned out” component? Many components fail with no visible evidence.
 
There are a number of simple things someone with no experience can at least test with a little guidance without ever opening the amp chassis. I think people were just trying to help OP check off the most basic troubleshooting steps before taking it in to a tech and spending $$$. I remember when my kids were that age $$$ were in short supply! :)
 
There are a number of simple things someone with no experience can at least test with a little guidance without ever opening the amp chassis. I think people were just trying to help OP check off the most basic troubleshooting steps before taking it in to a tech and spending $$$. I remember when my kids were that age $$$ were in short supply! :)
I think he already did this early on in the thread...
 
What do you do when you observe a “burned out” component? Many components fail with no visible evidence.
Capacitors pop. ICs have melt marks. Since we are assuming the OP will not troubleshoot it, this is checking for visible damage. It is one thing of many to look for. It can be done without power to the unit so it’s fairly safe for most people. Most of the work here is to generally isolate the problem so the repair facility can concentrate on the likely problem area. As previously stated, checking the headphones connector and reseating items inside may help, and also don’t require power or advanced technical ability. If a burned out component it found, one item can be replaced but actually multiple items could be affected. It’s likely a replacement board (if this amp is using multiple circuit boards) is ordered from the manufacturer.

If a component looks good but has failed, a technician would run the amp while turned on, put a signal in and look for loss of signal and trace back. This is for a trained technician to perform.
 
No, most failed caps and IC's have NO visible damage. Now you are getting into internet mythology and old wive's tales. Since the OP does not have any experience (based on the comments made in this thread), poking around using internet and mythological troubleshooting techniques can be dangerous when somebody who has no business inside an amp starts poking around. They don't know hat the hazards are, and in a 230V country a lapse of good judgement can be very dangerous.

A real tech would troubleshoot and replace the parts at the component level on an amp like this. Board swapping with this type of product is for hacks. It's a 60 minute (max) repair for a qualified tech. They would also use appropriate safety techniques and precautions.
 
No, most failed caps and IC's have NO visible damage. Now you are getting into internet mythology and old wive's tales. Since the OP does not have any experience (based on the comments made in this thread), poking around using internet and mythological troubleshooting techniques can be dangerous when somebody who has no business inside an amp starts poking around. They don't know hat the hazards are, and in a 230V country a lapse of good judgement can be very dangerous.

A real tech would troubleshoot and replace the parts at the component level on an amp like this. Board swapping with this type of product is for hacks. It's a 60 minute (max) repair for a qualified tech. They would also use appropriate safety techniques and precautions.
I hear if you pump a little of this in there it will fix it...
.
GUEST_bf147565-a847-4ac7-8187-46a641b174a7.jpeg

:)
 
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26678748[/URL], member: 68399"]No, most failed caps and IC's have NO visible damage. Now you are getting into internet mythology and old wive's tales. Since the OP does not have any experience (based on the comments made in this thread), poking around using internet and mythological troubleshooting techniques can be dangerous when somebody who has no business inside an amp starts poking around. They don't know hat the hazards are, and in a 230V country a lapse of good judgement can be very dangerous.

A real tech would troubleshoot and replace the parts at the component level on an amp like this. Board swapping with this type of product is for hacks. It's a 60 minute (max) repair for a qualified tech. They would also use appropriate safety techniques and precautions.
I’ve seen blown components. It’s rare but why not take a look.

With the power disconnected, connectors, if any, can be reinserted. He’s in a high humidity region.

Power is dangerous. I discussed what I would do with the power off.

He’s in Brazil. Getting individual replacement components isn’t always easy. Board swapping can be very cost effective. The old board can be kept for replacement components in case of future failures.


That’s just what I would do if I was in Brazil without an oscilloscope.
 
Capacitors pop. ICs have melt marks. Since we are assuming the OP will not troubleshoot it, this is checking for visible damage. It is one thing of many to look for. It can be done without power to the unit so it’s fairly safe for most people. Most of the work here is to generally isolate the problem so the repair facility can concentrate on the likely problem area. As previously stated, checking the headphones connector and reseating items inside may help, and also don’t require power or advanced technical ability. If a burned out component it found, one item can be replaced but actually multiple items could be affected. It’s likely a replacement board (if this amp is using multiple circuit boards) is ordered from the manufacturer.

If a component looks good but has failed, a technician would run the amp while turned on, put a signal in and look for loss of signal and trace back. This is for a trained technician to perform.
I used to make my living repairing OEM equipment (I’m currently an electrician for an automation company). I had to be careful when I removed a suspected bad component, that I didn’t re-install it because there was no visible evidence.
Your description of active troubleshooting is sometimes the method, but often not.
A multi meter is often enough.
 
26678959[/URL], member: 67213"]I used to make my living repairing OEM equipment (I’m currently an electrician for an automation company). I had to be careful when I removed a suspected bad component, that I didn’t re-install it because there was no visible evidence.
Your description of active troubleshooting is sometimes the method, but often not.
A multi meter is often enough.
Please tell us your suggested method. The OP only has a multimeter.


Most OEMs have a test procedure to follow. We don’t have one.
 
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