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Have Cab, Need Speakers

#42
Getting about 3.75. With a little bracing, drivers, etc., ballpark it at 3.5 cu.ft.. That coukd run sealed or ported really depending on the driver. The Emi. B810 SVT replacements coukd drop in there as is, Beta's probably could too, maybe ported with a bit lower tuning. Also check out the Fane's mentioned, see what Peavey or Carvin have to offer. Also check out the Dayton brand at Partsexpress and dig around MCM Electronics site and see if you can find anything workable. Celestion's Green label drivers are alright for bass and maybe a PA oriented midbass or 2 of theirs. All in keeping with the "cheap but decent/not expensive" motif there.
 
#43
will33 said:
Getting about 3.75. With a little bracing, drivers, etc., ballpark it at 3.5 cu.ft.. That coukd run sealed or ported really depending on the driver. The Emi. B810 SVT replacements coukd drop in there as is, Beta's probably could too, maybe ported with a bit lower tuning. Also check out the Fane's mentioned, see what Peavey or Carvin have to offer. Also check out the Dayton brand at Partsexpress and dig around MCM Electronics site and see if you can find anything workable. Celestion's Green label drivers are alright for bass and maybe a PA oriented midbass or 2 of theirs. All in keeping with the "cheap but decent/not expensive" motif there.
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Will that's great man, many thanks for your help here. I'll be off to do some windows-shopping! While I scratch up dough I'll be getting the cab finished up and properly presentable/friend-proof, and will post pix, and eventually soundcloud samples, for future member-projects edification.

Rockin'! Thanks again Will33, and everyone, for the help!
 
#44
I just got a real novel idea :hyper:... I have these 2 old speakers from an Avatar Neo-210 cab. I could build a pocket into the 410 cab here and insert my bass head (2-space rack-mount Trace head) into the cab to store/hold the head, do whatever else it takes to get the internal volume right, get these speakers re-coned and sock 'em in there.

I'll use the two holes at the slant-back portion of the baffle for the Avatar (Eminence) drivers, and where the two drivers were at the bottom of the baffle, I'll 'Dutchman' those shut and install the 4" or so ports that Duke LeJeune mentioned. A little WinISD tunage, and viola!

Cheap- and probably pretty good as a general-purpose combo! It'll only be a 210, but the drivers will be facing upwards for nice monitoring, and as I recall that Avatar 210 cab was a mother. Sounded great, even for reggae gigs- plenty of heft and volume for most of my gig needs.

So I'd have a combo, very affordable- and modular. I've got 2 similar Trace Elliot heads, so if one goes down I just pop the other one in there and the show goes on. This idea sort of continues the 'one-off' origins of this project in a fun way. I just need to figure what the new internal volume need will be, and how to best integrate the head into the 'modular' idea... how to actually do this...
 
#46
Roughly 2 cu.ft. and ported. Could saw the bottom off the cab and have a 210 wedge monitor but I'd be more inclined to put them in the bottom half and stand it on end, saw the top off. Could build an airhead onto it if you want a combo.
 
#47
will33 said:
Roughly 2 cu.ft. and ported. Could saw the bottom off the cab and have a 210 wedge monitor but I'd be more inclined to put them in the bottom half and stand it on end, saw the top off. Could build an airhead onto it if you want a combo.
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Hmm. I'm going to keep working out this idea for a bit. The darn thing is pretty deep, but I'm just thinking maybe I can squeeze out some of the volume by building into the box with a housing for the amp head. Might have to be a kinda big housing though.

But in-set handles, in-set tilt-back casters, maybe a little "invention" to displace internal volume could keep it a taller box than what I'll get if I cut it in half.

I'm just trying not to cut it up, but to learn what it can be "as-is", more or less. More driver homework. Thanks Will, I may end up going that way. I want something very functional, and the sticky (but challenging) part is to do it as cheap as possible.
 
#49
You could do that. It's easy enough to incorporate a spot for the amp. The amps cooling/airflow and keeping a good seal for the cabinet portion are the important parts. Styrofoam effectively "shrinks" boxes and weighs nothing. It's also free. There's likely some in the dumpster out back of wherever you work.
 
#50
will33 said:
You could do that. It's easy enough to incorporate a spot for the amp. The amps cooling/airflow and keeping a good seal for the cabinet portion are the important parts. Styrofoam effectively "shrinks" boxes and weighs nothing. It's also free. There's likely some in the dumpster out back of wherever you work.
Click to expand...

Styrofoam- great idea. You see where my experience doesn't lie... I hear the critical parts you outline there, amp gets air and cab is tight. I can do that...
 
#51
...What I don't get though is the math. I know I'm just missing something (like some school, maybe) that will be my personal 'missing link'. I'm going to get that together so I can come off as someone with a brain, probably go do that before I post anymore! :hiding:

Off to Google a little tutelage.
 
#52
I use measured chunks of styrofoam in my test box to shrink it, try drivers in different box volumes. Various numbers, lengths and diameters of cardboard tube or pvc pipe makes it easy to try different tunings as well. Styrofoam is "closed cell" foam, it occupies space. The lining/stuffing you use in the speaker box is "open cell", you can easily breath through it like an air filter. It doesn't count against the box size, but does other things you need done, like damp midrange reflections, smooths response, etc.

Length x width x height = volume.....space occupied or created.

12" x 12" x 12" = 1728 cubic inches = 1 cubic foot...the magic number. Cubic inches divided by 1728 = cubic feet.
 
#53
will33 said:
I use measured chunks of styrofoam in my test box to shrink it, try drivers in different box volumes. Various numbers, lengths and diameters of cardboard tube or pvc pipe makes it easy to try different tunings as well. Styrofoam is "closed cell" foam, it occupies space. The lining/stuffing you use in the speaker box is "open cell", you can easily breath through it like an air filter. It doesn't count against the box size, but does other things you need done, like damp midrange reflections, smooths response, etc.

Length x width x height = volume.....space occupied or created.

12" x 12" x 12" = 1728 cubic inches = 1 cubic foot...the magic number. Cubic inches divided by 1728 = cubic feet.
Click to expand...

Saved me a trip again. Your in my will, Will.
 

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