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Having Distortion Issues when Speakers Placed in Cabinet

Applying some solder flux to the jack terminal before soldering helps with heat transfer and the task goes quicker.

You need enough heat, you shouldn’t have to dwell with the iron on the terminal. Soldering that joint should take a couple of seconds. Attach the wire to the jack terminal. Apply flux. Apply heat. Then the solder. Having a jig to hold the jack helps. You can mount the jack on a plate, a thin piece of plywood or a soft jawed vise.
 
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Applying some solder flux to the jack terminal before soldering helps with heat transfer and the task goes quicker.

You need enough heat, you shouldn’t have to dwell with the iron on the terminal. Soldering that joint should take a couple of seconds. Attach the wire to the jack terminal. Apply flux. Apply heat. Then the solder. Having a jig to hold the jack helps. You can mount the jack on a plate, a thin piece of plywood or a soft jawed vise.
Flux and rosin core solder.
 
Good to see that a solution is in hand. For the record, I don't understand this comment:
Only thing I noticed is the angled pieces are not attached to the baffle.

They look OK to me. I own this same cabinet. I'd have to see a picture from the inside looking at the joint, to see if there's an issue. Anyway, this seems to be a moot point.
 
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Good to see that a solution is in hand. For the record, I don't understand this comment:


They look OK to me. I own this same cabinet. I'd have to see a picture from the inside looking at the joint, to see if there's an issue. Anyway, this seems to be a moot point.
The front board that holds the speakers was not connected to the angled boards that form the right side port. There were no visible nails or screws and you could see a very small gap between the two if you looked.

That has been fixed with Titebond III and 2” wood screws. Not sure it was an issue, but since the speakers are out…
 
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The front board that holds the speakers was not connected to the angled boards that form the right side port. There were no visible nails or screws and you could see a very small gap between the two if you looked.

That has been fixed with Titebond III and 2” wood screws. Not sure it was an issue, but since the speakers are out…
Very good. I couldn't tell from your photos. With my cabinet, that joint is nailed and glued. Your baffle actually looks different; mine is a bit wider from the speaker hole to the edge where it joins the port angle.
 
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Very good. I couldn't tell from your photos. With my cabinet, that joint is nailed and glued. Your baffle actually looks different; mine is a bit wider from the speaker hole to the edge where it joins the port angle.
My 215m from 1976 looks the same.

IMG_7033.jpeg
 
Good to see that a solution is in hand. For the record, I don't understand this comment:


They look OK to me. I own this same cabinet. I'd have to see a picture from the inside looking at the joint, to see if there's an issue. Anyway, this seems to be a moot point.
It’s not a moot point, it may very well be an issue once the initial problem is resolved.
 
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I wanted to thank you all for suggestions on a fix. Not sure which did the trick since I did a glue and screw on the cab ports and also got some good flux so my soldering looks quasi-professional. Also bought the Belkin cable. Ended up using the Sunn Transducers and sold the EVs. So, I now have a nice sounding cab that only cost me net $250.

IMG_7436.jpeg