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Having Distortion Issues when Speakers Placed in Cabinet

#62
BassNugget said:
Did you try the cab outside? I know it has been stated elsewhere in the thread, but something else in the room vibrating could be the culprit. After I had just built a cab and was testing it in my normal practice room, I was getting some cone fart-out sounds. Never had an issue with my combos, but this cab moves way more air and it was exciting the horizontal blinds behind the cab. BTW, it took me a LONG time to understand that it was the blinds. I SWORE it was coming from the just-built and well-braced cab. :(
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Agreed
My latest build almost went to unnecessary surgery due to a nearby (should have been glaringly obvious) piece of music room decor disagreeing with the volume I practice at.

I win the stoopid/ low confidence in my build/ sympathetic vibration, you dummy award....

Literally A FOOT away from the cab is a bent sheet metal wall hanging picture without a foam or felt or whatever backing.

Oh, duh, please don't disassemble this cab and blame your work. You did fine, basscooker, check the room first. Yeah. Cab is solid... no silly sounds. Just a silly operator.
 
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#63
basscooker said:
Agreed
My latest build almost went to unnecessary surgery due to a nearby (should have been glaringly obvious) piece of music room decor disagreeing with the volume I practice at.

I win the stoopid/ low confidence in my build/ sympathetic vibration, you dummy award....

Literally A FOOT away from the cab is a bent sheet metal wall hanging picture without a foam or felt or whatever backing.

Oh, duh, please don't disassemble this cab and blame your work. You did fine, basscooker, check the room first. Yeah. Cab is solid... no silly sounds. Just a silly operator.
Click to expand...
In my case, I am testing the cab in the garage with nothing around it. The other part is what comes out of the cab is a lot lower volume than what my other 215 cab puts out with the same amps.
 
#68
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#70
By chance have you tried the cabinet laying on it back for a test?

The wire it self should not would not cause the distortion provided it's not shorted and copper. Have you pulled the wire and jack out of the cabinet and tested that with speakers?
With the speakers disconnected take a ohm meter and measure across the speaker lines with out it plugged into the amp, leave the speaker cable plugged into the cabinet, that should measure open.
 
#72
Mike Caldwell said:
By chance have you tried the cabinet laying on it back for a test?

The wire it self should not would not cause the distortion provided it's not shorted and copper. Have you pulled the wire and jack out of the cabinet and tested that with speakers?
With the speakers disconnected take a ohm meter and measure across the speaker lines with out it plugged into the amp, leave the speaker cable plugged into the cabinet, that should measure open.
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Not completely on its back but shimmed up a bit so the speaker cable could be connected. I only measured continuity, not resistance.
 
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#74
Never “flex the cone” on light weight cones such as the JBL 130’s or 2220 or EV12/15L (not the 15B) series. These (and others) are very thin cones that can be damaged if not very careful, especially if they are old.

Also, everything in a speaker happens axially, it’s a linear motor, so no asymmetrical loading occurs in normal operation so in a tight gap with a large diameter voice coil, a perfectly good speaker can be made to rub because these speakers have a small Xmax and are not supposed to be treated this way.

This is a video with limited value that may lead to false conclusions.
 
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#76
Stealth57 said:
Not completely on its back but shimmed up a bit so the speaker cable could be connected. I only measured continuity, not resistance.
Click to expand...

Check for resistance across the leads, there should be none as in open.
agedhorse said:
Never “flex the cone” on light weight cones such as the JBL 130’s or 2220 or EV12/15L (not the 15B) series. These (and others) are very thin cones that can be damaged if not very careful, especially if they are old.

Also, everything in a speaker happens axially, it’s a linear motor, so no asymmetrical loading occurs in normal operation so in a tight gap with a large diameter voice coil, a perfectly good speaker can be made to rub because these speakers have a small Xmax and are not supposed to be treated this way.

This is a video with limited value that may lead to false conclusions.
Click to expand...

Some speakers have very narrow voice coil gaps so the re coning shimming need to be spot on with no shift after the shims are are removed.

Throw in aftermarket kits and it can make it even more hit miss, granted with some speakers aftermarket kits are your only choice.
 
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#77
Mike Caldwell said:
Check for resistance across the leads, there should be none as in open.
Click to expand...

You lost me on this one. If I check DCR on a speaker I get the ohm reading you would expect for an 8 ohm speaker, all 4 I'm having issues with are in the 6 ohm range. Just for jollies, I was very careful and did the movement test on all 4 speakers. None make any noise and only one was slightly stiffer than the others.
 
#78
Stealth57 said:
You lost me on this one. If I check DCR on a speaker I get the ohm reading you would expect for an 8 ohm speaker, all 4 I'm having issues with are in the 6 ohm range. Just for jollies, I was very careful and did the movement test on all 4 speakers. None make any noise and only one was slightly stiffer than the others.
Click to expand...

I didn't explain very well, with out the speakers connected to the speaker cabling in the cabinet, measure across the wireless and see if that shows any resistance as in some short between between the lines, that should be open. Also measure each line end to end, that should measure near 0 ohms. Leave the speaker cable plugged to the cabinet but not the amp for those test.

6 ohms DCR is in the range for an 8 ohm rated speaker.
 
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#79
Mike Caldwell said:
I didn't explain very well, with out the speakers connected to the speaker cabling in the cabinet, measure across the wireless and see if that shows any resistance as in some short between between the lines, that should be open. Also measure each line end to end, that should measure near 0 ohms. Leave the speaker cable plugged to the cabinet but not the amp for those test.

6 ohms DCR is in the range for an 8 ohm rated speaker.
Click to expand...
End to end measures 0.1 ohm for all 4 legs. Cross wires reads open except across the jack, which reads 0.1 ohms. All wires are ~2’.
 

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