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Having trouble finding a radius sanding block for my bass

Is there anything I need to worry about with attempting this on a fingerboard that has already been installed on the neck? My background is in manufacturing and I've seen studs push themselves out of a hole due to hydraulic pressure when using Loctite or glue. Kinda curious if the holes I drill will present this issue
No. It's not that difficult. I've done it on ebony and rosewood. It's easy to drill the holes, put in the white plastic rods and cut them off (carefully of course). I did not use glue. They fit in snugly enough. The real challenge is the precision needed in measuring the placement of the holes. Measure many times, drill once.;)
 
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Greetings friends. It took a while before I had the time to sit down and tackle refinishing the fingerboard on my fretless. Wanted to make sure I had a long weekend to take my time, walk away, come back to it and not be in a hurry. Plus, it took some time to find everything I needed including a sanding beam and a nice straight edge. You can see in some of the pictures that the neck definitely had a high spot around the 10th fret position. The fingerboard is now leveled and sanded up to 2500 grit. Warwick must have dyed the fingerboard to make it appear like solid black ebony. The resurfacing has revealed a fairly nice wood grain underneath. I also decided not to mess with the position markers for now.
I've applied one coat of Minwax tung oil finish so far. Most of the threads that I have read regarding this finish are pro and con but I never liked working with linseed oil in the past so I went with the Minwax. Any suggestions here are welcome.
 

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I've applied one coat of Minwax tung oil finish so far. Most of the threads that I have read regarding this finish are pro and con but I never liked working with linseed oil in the past so I went with the Minwax. Any suggestions here are welcome.[/QUOTE]

It was pretty hard for me, too, to decide what to put on my rosewood fingerboard when I made my electric upright bass. After some experimenting, I went with Minwax Ebony 2718 oil based wood stain. I wiped the bare wood down with naphtha then applied two coats of the ebony stain. It went on very black but changed when I wet sanded it down with 2000 grit paper and applied 3 coats of Behlen B710-0001 Fingerboard Oil in 24 hour intervals. After wiping down the oiled surface with a cloth, the fingerboard came out beautifully dark but not black. The little white dots cleaned up quickly with some varsol on a Qtip.
2020 03 16 After Fingerboard Polishing sml.jpg
 
It was pretty hard for me, too, to decide what to put on my rosewood fingerboard when I made my electric upright bass. After some experimenting, I went with Minwax Ebony 2718 oil based wood stain. I wiped the bare wood down with naphtha then applied two coats of the ebony stain. It went on very black but changed when I wet sanded it down with 2000 grit paper and applied 3 coats of Behlen B710-0001 Fingerboard Oil in 24 hour intervals. After wiping down the oiled surface with a cloth, the fingerboard came out beautifully dark but not black. The little white dots cleaned up quickly with some varsol on a Qtip.
View attachment 4287913[/QUOTE]

Very nice! Mine ended up getting 4 coats of the Minwax Tung Oil. It looked pretty good after a week of curing. Unfortunately once it gets a smudge mark it's there to stay. One day I may strip it off and try something else but for now it's working. About to swap strings and do the final setup on it. I'll post more pics when I'm finished.
 
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