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Headless, 24 fan-fret 5-string project - the Meteorlite

Just saw this - somewhat similar to my design

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Being from China, I shoulda' figured it was based on a pricier bass... Pardon Our Interruption...

And while here.., what is the "correct" placement of pu's on a fanned-fret bass? These are mostly in a standard alignment with the B-pu angling very slightly downward on the E-side. On the MIC version, they are angled, like the frets & bridge and the B-pu is similarly angled southward on the E-side. (I'm gunna' guess imitating this Strandberg*) So my my question is.., is there a "standard" "rule-of-thumb" optimal placement? Maybe if I replace the body, I could turn the original into a test-platform to find the optimal location & position of pu's for a fanned-fret bass. Anyone know of any such research already out there?

*first time I heard of one

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Call me a dim-wit and slap me in the face with a fish that smells (Bob Dylan quote) but I just did the intonation measurement test on the Strandberg pic above and it is/appears off the other direction! (saddles would be over the B-pu) What am I missing?
 
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That's wierd. Can only assume the image is distorted by a wide angle lens.
As to pickup positions, there doesn't seem to be agreement between any of the makers of multi-scale instruments. On the ones I've made I've imagined the frets continuing to the bridges and aligned the pickups with the frets which would be at their centres. It seemed to work OK.
Skelbass 001.JPG
 
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That's wierd. Can only assume the image is distorted by a wide angle lens.
As to pickup positions, there doesn't seem to be agreement between any of the makers of multi-scale instruments. On the ones I've made I've imagined the frets continuing to the bridges and aligned the pickups with the frets which would be at their centres. It seemed to work OK.View attachment 7331810
Very nice! Camera distortion is possible. As you know, there's a few reasons why builders position pu's on a slant. If using poled pu's, the pu's are slanted in order to get the poles to line up over the strings, usually if using two of the same pu's. (compared to a J set which has two different width pu's) Another reason to shift is to emphasize bass or treble response, even if subtly/incrementally. And lastly, purely for aesthetic reasons. As per your bass, no exposed poles so no restrictions there. :)

Yours passes the 12th fret test! ;)
 
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Finally received the bass - nearly 3 months from when I bought/ordered it. And... you get what you pay for. It doesn't have a roasted maple neck and it doesn't have a 9v preamp as it was sold as having. I contracted the seller pointing out that they sent something that doesn't align with their ad and that it is essentially false advertising and illegal, so they are reimbursing me $70. At this point - I agreed to this and won't give them any feedback to save them from a poor feedback. It's not worth any further fussing with.

So here's my review :

The neck possibly doesn't have a truss-rod. There is a hole at to top of the 'headless' hs but it is blocked by screws holding the string-stop down. I will remove the blocking screws and see if there is a tr down there. (can't see one) Luckily it's fairly straight so it could be worse if it doesn't have a tr. The nut width is 1-3/4", so Jazz bass string spacing. I attempted to intone it and with the saddles all the way south - they would need to go further south to intone correctly. I think that they can be moved but I haven't focused on it yet. The pick-ups are low output which a 9v pre would address by boosting the output. I'll use the reimbursed $70 to find something to install. It weighs 8lbs/8oz and is glossy which is also different from the ad showing it in a satin sheen finish. The neck is a flat D profile. I may file it to be a smoother transition, like an airplane-wing tapering toward the G-string which works better for a wide 5'r neck. Would also feel better than the thick glossy clear-coat. I lowered the action and it uncovered buzzing frets. If it doesn't have a tr, I'll just address each fret and file them to stop buzzing. Needless to say, the fret ends also need filing. There is also grounding issues - the control cavity is devoid of shielding paint or tape. The controls are VTVT and master V. The tuners work ok and appear to be sturdy - they just need some grease.
The body is made of 3 slabs of 1-5/8" (mostly slab ash with slight belly & forearm bevels) with what looks like a very thin veneer of flamed maple on top with a semi-opaque (think a Mary Kaye finish) coating. Neck is three-piece maple and the fb is what looks like some sort of rosewood.

So I think I will make a new lighter/thinner/ better designed body for it and install a 9v pre. I'll also work on filing the neck to be more comfortable and address buzzing frets. For $361.35 - I just look at it as raw materials for another project bass and a lesson learned.

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The top view looks like the one posted other than being glossy and the tuners being slightly different. (all black with gold saddles)
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The back is missing a battery-box that the ad included a pic of -
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Hard to get an illustrative pic of - a flat center with D tapers
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12th fret - it does have a strange taper, the opposite of what is should be. (gradual taper is on the B-side) On an airplane wing profile, the neck should instead taper more to the G-side.
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To remind - my body design
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Hmmm… interesting. Not even a string spacer after the zero fret, just the position of the string anchors. I suppose it can work but I might trim back the end of the fretboard and install a spacer if it gives you issues.

I like the knobs on the bridge tuners. They look cool. If there aren’t already bearings between the knobs and the bridge body and you can find some thrust bearings the right size that should make the tuners easier to turn.

Should be quite the undertaking. :smug: :thumbsup:
 
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Hmmm… interesting. Not even a string spacer after the zero fret, just the position of the string anchors. I suppose it can work but I might trim back the end of the fretboard and install a spacer if it gives you issues.

I like the knobs on the bridge tuners. They look cool. If there aren’t already bearings between the knobs and the bridge body and you can find some thrust bearings the right size that should make the tuners easier to turn.

Should be quite the undertaking. :smug: :thumbsup:
Both good points/recommendations - added to the list of things to address which will make it legit.
 
I like the knobs on the bridge tuners. They look cool. If there aren’t already bearings between the knobs and the bridge body and you can find some thrust bearings the right size that should make the tuners easier to turn.
Personally, I don't like the knobs. Too flashy for me so I'd make new ones but that's just a matter of personal taste. I can see thrust bearingsin the photo, so they should be fine once they are in the right place and if a new body is on the cards, that's no problem.
 
Personally, I don't like the knobs. Too flashy for me so I'd make new ones but that's just a matter of personal taste. I can see thrust bearingsin the photo, so they should be fine once they are in the right place and if a new body is on the cards, that's no problem.


I meant more that I like the texture, I guess, of the tuning knobs. They would probably look better in a matte silver / chrome finish in this application.
 
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I have built a few with no string spacer, just a zero fret. They work fine. And it’s easy!
Yah, the gap is small and the tension is high there so I don't see them moving once tuned to pitch. Maybe when initially setting it up? Only 'headless' bass I've owned was a Kubicki Ex-Factor.
 
I disassembled the bass and started designing the new body. I'm not using the sketch I've been posting, especially since my recent purchase of a Klein K-bass last Saturday. It's all about ergonomics and I love ergonomic basses, so I've decided to design my own ergonomic 5-string. I used the Paulownia 1 piece 1-1/4" wood slab to draw and re-draw until I was happy with it starting with a tracing of the original MIC body. It's a bit hard to read but you get the general impression. It will be heavily sculpted, totally ergonomic, will balance well and look unique. I'm not crazy about the pu's shape as they do not flow aesthetically. I have ideas but that will be worked out later.

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Made a lot of progress on the 5'r today. Routed the neck-pocket, installed countersunk mollies in the neck for (6) collared hex-head neck bolts, installed the bridge(s) & strings and initially set it up to see where I'm at so far. Pulling/installing the bridges back made achieving correct intonation easy. I rummaged through my parts-bin and found a nice set of EMG J pu's that I had in my Factorbird when I first made it in the late '90s. (score!) Not 5'r pu's but will do the job! Now I know what preamp to order! I've always liked EMG's system - their 9v pre's always sound good; clean, articulate and neutral in a good way.

I'm really diggin' the way it's developing - very visually streamline and light as a feather! It'll be hard to get it weighing over 5lbs! More body sculpting and neck-shaping to go - I briefly owned a 5'r and designed/built a couple (to sell - both sold) but this one may actually get me interested in playing one!

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I just ordered the EMG BTC 2-pu / 3 knob / 2 band / Vol-Bl-T/B stack 9v pre from Best Bass Gear. (haven't ordered from them in a while but got my 10% custom bass builders discount! - woo-hoo!) Similar to what is in my Klein K-bass but I like this Vol & pu blend version better. It's simpler to adjust and one master Vol knob is always prefered.

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Reviewing this thread - it totally cracks me up! It started out pretty basically.., innocently one might say.., "I think I'll buy this cheap MIC 5-string since I don't currently have a 5-string bass"... and look where it's ending up! If I had to define my MO - it would be just this. :laugh:
 

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