- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,013
- 1
- 31,720
- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
It is! Key is a deep gloss clear-coat over it, which spikes its inherent magic! I just brushed on a coat of the "rubbed-on" gloss poly. it looks amazing! I've done a lot of very cool finishes over 13 yrs under Gildaxe - but this one is really unique. No way I can accurately photograph/document what's going on. It's all about subtlety and layering depth - it's a WTFinish!?!Sweet! The Montana holo-flake is pretty great.
I think it was my awakening as a young teen to avaunt guard/art music. Reminds me of David Lynch (RIP) - one of my favorite contemporary artists.
But I don't understand him playing in first position starting on the G string-B for the 'bass break'. I know he's shown playing a hollowbody, but I hear it as staring on the D string/9th fret.Hi JIO, Happy Holidays! I just discovered (and devoured) this thread. Bravo - you’re a brave luthier/artist. That finish is stunning, but the whole thing is a dive into the deep end for a vintage 4-string specialist. …definitely a work of art! Thanks for the blow by blow, let us know how you like playing it. One pedestrian question - what’s the string spacing at the bridge? It looks like 17…Having said all of that.., it's a weird looking bass by conventional standards.But it's extremely ergonomic, light and balanced and feels good. It should sound awesome. It should be a joy to play - melt under your fingers etc... I am hopeful. News at 11...
Hi JIO, Happy Holidays! I just discovered (and devoured) this thread. Bravo - you’re a brave luthier/artist. That finish is stunning, but the whole thing is a dive into the deep end for a vintage 4-string specialist. …definitely a work of art! Thanks for the blow by blow, let us know how you like playing it. One pedestrian question - what’s the string spacing at the bridge? It looks like 17…
NYE is an all-new (to me) piano+guitar trio. Reading gig (no rehearsal), some cool tunes (not sure what genre to call Bowie, Waits, Hiatt, K.T.Oslin, etc). 10-midnight only. You?Back attcha' Tom and thanks for the kind words - hope you and yours are doing well!The bridge spacing is 2-7/8" from B-G and 1.5" at the "nut"/string restraints. So on the narrow side which may work for me. I've made a couple 5-string basses but never really played them much. (they were made to sell and only played setting them up) I'll string it up once I connect the pu's to the pre and get it making electric sounds. I did do an initial set-up to make sure I had the bridge location correct (which it was/is) but I didn't really play it. Nice hearing from you - have a great New Year! Are you playing NYE?
No NYE gig, but a mid-day J1 B-day show with The Sean Conneries and friends at Winters' tavern in Pacifica. It's a J1 tradition I started 9 yrs ago. Two hrs, whoever shows up - just a fun get together!NYE is an all-new (to me) piano+guitar trio. Reading gig (no rehearsal), some cool tunes (not sure what genre to call Bowie, Waits, Hiatt, K.T.Oslin, etc). 10-midnight only. You?
PS - I like 18 mm spacing at the bridge. That looks 17-ish. But if you like those skinny vintage 4-string necks then 17 might be just your thing!

Thanks - yes, I cut the two A-string clamp screws shorter so they don't block the tr access, and superglued the screws and clamp-unit to the "hs". Hopefully it'll hold up!Great project! Have you come up with a way to access the TR cover?


... in this case at least for the B-pu. Tapping the ends shows where the magnet response tapers off. On the N-pu, the cut-off is right on the lines. but on the B-pu it crosses those lines. So... without disfiguring modifications I can carefully route the ends of the B-pu cavity wider but... the four screw-flanges would not be in the same location. Since the flanges are only part of the plastic cover - I band-sawed the flanges off! I'll figure a way to super-glue on correct width flanges in the needed locations (I have spare blk J covers - plastic superglues well) and Bob's yer' uncle! I also need to solder the passive J pu wires to the pu selector pot (as illustrated in the EMG BTC instructions).., but once I get a nice fat response from the B-pu - it'll get this bass 100% right! I always favor the B-pu on my basses w/two pu's anyway, so as long as it has a nice strong response - the N-pu should provide all the low-end I'd need to hear in blending/balancing the two.
Caught a non-rain partly sunny moment to shoot a couple pics outside -
View attachment 7401870
Most of my finishes would profit from professional photography - the top one ^ is not bad (looks like the finish) but doesn't show-off the hologram effect much.
View attachment 7401872
It's true, like those AI product displays where you can rotate the image from multiple viewpoints. Yah.., no...You almost need a video of you moving the body in the light to really capture any color change, or candy finishes or really nice figured wood
