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Headless Club???

Any chance anyone here is interested in trading their Hohner B2AV for my brand new, mint condition Hohner G3T guitar?

Never-mind, I found one by messaging Marley’s Ghost to see if he wanted to sell his. And best of all, it’s left handed.

Now, any chance anyone can tell me where to find a right handed headpiece for a Hohner B2AV? I play left handed inverted (low strings on the bottom).
 
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Hello, greetings from Bosnia and Herzegovina. I would need your help with defining a spare part for a headless bass that i picked up at flee market. It's nothing special i assume as it looks like a cheapo Hofner or Steinberger copy. It's called Passadena and it's missing a upper string holder (at the top of the head) so i was wondering if there is a chance to buy this part online and yould you help with type of upper bridge that i need? These are online pics of the guitar. I need it for a tour in Sweden that is planned in april so there is a fair amount of time left :) Thanx
Also if you have and expirience with a headless Fernandes Sidewinder as one is selling in my town at the price of 500USD. Is that a fair price?
 

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Hello, greetings from Bosnia and Herzegovina. I would need your help with defining a spare part for a headless bass that i picked up at flee market. It's nothing special i assume as it looks like a cheapo Hofner or Steinberger copy. It's called Passadena and it's missing a upper string holder (at the top of the head) so i was wondering if there is a chance to buy this part online and yould you help with type of upper bridge that i need? These are online pics of the guitar. I need it for a tour in Sweden that is planned in april so there is a fair amount of time left :) Thanx
Also if you have and expirience with a headless Fernandes Sidewinder as one is selling in my town at the price of 500USD. Is that a fair price?

It doesn’t look like it’s missing anything. The string clamps at the end of the neck look intact to me!
 
This is not a pitcure of the original bass that i bought. Just a random internet photo to show a model and type of the part that is missing. Mine is completely withouth upper sadle part.
I have seen similar parts for sale on epay over time. Not sure if they'll fit, but they were usually <$15 so not a big risk.

Also if you have and expirience with a headless Fernandes Sidewinder as one is selling in my town at the price of 500USD. Is that a fair price?
You can get a new Steinberger Spirit 4 for less than that new from Thomann.
 
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First concept for a headless build that I’m in the body planning/cutting phase of. I intend to get the neck and assembly done by a luthier, but the body will be cut by my uncle and I out of a chunk of Lenga he’s been saving for me. The stick is a simulated 35 inch neck to test ergonomics. I’m happy to say that I did well with the design! It falls comfortably. V2 has been designed (with a minor change to fit a 6 string heel onto it, and I’ll cut a test chunk of MDF tomorrow. If that fits, then the next step is the body out of the proper material!
 
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First concept for a headless build that I’m in the body planning/cutting phase of. I intend to get the neck and assembly done by a luthier, but the body will be cut by my uncle and I out of a chunk of Lenga he’s been saving for me. The stick is a simulated 35 inch neck to test ergonomics. I’m happy to say that I did well with the design! It falls comfortably. V2 has been designed (with a minor change to fit a 6 string heel onto it, and I’ll cut a test chunk of MDF tomorrow. If that fits, then the next step is the body out of the proper material!
Forgot to add, the plan is to use NOVA hardware and Nordstrand pickups :)
 
Speaking of, does anyone know the dimensions (vertical/horizontal) of the six string nova bridge? The 17mm one specifically. Cheers :)

Offhand I do not, but @Passini from Nova is usually pretty quick to respond.

Also note that you can get individual bases as well so that you can set the spacing yourself. In fact, now that I think about it, I believe that setting them flush, next to each other is *really* close to 17mm, perhaps just a bit under...

I went the opposite route on some things but my Headless 27" (profile pic) is a Nova/Nordy pairing too! :D

Also remember that regardless of the base/baseplate you use for the tuners, you will probably have to route under it a few mm or the saddles will be pretty high... or full-shim the neck and raise the pups pretty high to compensate.

I know you can angle-shim, but I don't like to make that part of the plan, only a last resort adjustment.

Good luck!

upload_2022-4-8_10-38-18-jpeg.4650544
 
Offhand I do not, but @Passini from Nova is usually pretty quick to respond.

Also note that you can get individual bases as well so that you can set the spacing yourself. In fact, now that I think about it, I believe that setting them flush, next to each other is *really* close to 17mm, perhaps just a bit under...

I went the opposite route on some things but my Headless 27" (profile pic) is a Nova/Nordy pairing too! :D

Also remember that regardless of the base/baseplate you use for the tuners, you will probably have to route under it a few mm or the saddles will be pretty high... or full-shim the neck and raise the pups pretty high to compensate.

I know you can angle-shim, but I don't like to make that part of the plan, only a last resort adjustment.

Good luck!

upload_2022-4-8_10-38-18-jpeg.4650544
Will keep in mind! The only reason I was asking for the measurements of the bridge with a baseplate was to sketch onto the MDF to get an idea of body/hardware proportions. I'll also pass on the routing necessity to the luthier who will be assembling the bass. For now the project is comprised of cutting the body though (due to a time limit on me being able to take it back home to New Zealand from Argentina) - everything else will come later.

On a different note, I just chucked up a quick solo cover with the B2, which I've brought along with me on the aforementioned trip. Sounds perfectly cromulent for a travel bass, I reckon. Check it out if you'd be interested!

 
If anyone here owns, or has owned, both a Maruszczyk and. Kiesel , I’d love to hear your thoughts on the quality of the one vs the other. I’m looking to pick up a medium or short scale (shoulder issues), and I’ve narrowed it down to either a 32” Frog or a 30” Vader. I currently own a full scale Vader, and am pretty impressed with the build, so I just want to know if the build of the Frog is equal to (or possibly even better than) the Vader.
 
If anyone here owns, or has owned, both a Maruszczyk and. Kiesel , I’d love to hear your thoughts on the quality of the one vs the other. I’m looking to pick up a medium or short scale (shoulder issues), and I’ve narrowed it down to either a 32” Frog or a 30” Vader. I currently own a full scale Vader, and am pretty impressed with the build, so I just want to know if the build of the Frog is equal to (or possibly even better than) the Vader.
 
If anyone here owns, or has owned, both a Maruszczyk and. Kiesel , I’d love to hear your thoughts on the quality of the one vs the other. I’m looking to pick up a medium or short scale (shoulder issues), and I’ve narrowed it down to either a 32” Frog or a 30” Vader. I currently own a full scale Vader, and am pretty impressed with the build, so I just want to know if the build of the Frog is equal to (or possibly even better than) the Vader.
Sorry, never owned a Kiesel but have owned both a headless Frog (34”) and it’s little brother the Cazpar (32”) and the build quality was/is fantastic on both. If you’re looking for smaller/shorter the Cazpar should be considered. This is a custom build I had done as 32” scale with 24 frets.
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Oh, and to me, looks cooler than the Kiesels.
 
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Yeah the upper horn length is a non negotiable for me as it has so much impact on the ergonomics of any instrument. The 34” scale Frog actually felt more like a 32 because of the long upper horn and was super comfortable to play. It’s one of the main design principles for the Headless instruments that I build for myself, that top horn has to be at least up to the 12th fret which makes the reach to the first fret much easier.

Update:
Here’s an image I created a few years ago, comparing all the basses that I owned at the time, as I was trying to determine why I played certain basses more than others. Ultimately balance and ergonomics were a couple of the factors for me. While these were all great instruments, some of these I no longer own partially for these reasons and that I’ve become more focused on headless basses/guitars in general.
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Yeah the upper horn length is a non negotiable for me as it has so much impact on the ergonomics of any instrument. The 34” scale Frog actually felt more like a 32 because of the long upper horn and was super comfortable to play. It’s one of the main design principles for the Headless instruments that I build for myself, that top horn has to be at least up to the 12th fret which makes the reach to the first fret much easier.

Agreed, but with a caveat of considering the total scale... for example, my 27" scale headless has an upper horn to ~11th fret and it actually makes it a little trickier to play with my right hand closer to the bridge. I can do it, it just feels a little odd.
 
Two different but related considerations here:
  • Balance: My headless basses balance perfectly, even if the strap button is at the fifteenth fret…
  • Reach: …but the distance to the first fret does differ, which is noticeable but not an obstacle for me.