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Headless Club???

I have some tiny ABMs you can have.
I appreciate the offer! I discovered after my rant that I had some from an aborted build back in the Covid era (I think) so apart from having to bore out the E string hole a smidge, I'm good for now...

I might plan on saving the block that came with the Guyker for if I make a fretless neck to go with this body... I don't plan to travel with that one much so it can be a bit bulkier at the top.

Again, thanks for the offer!
 
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Count me in on this one. I just got this fantastic 1983 L2 #1333. Came with all original goodies except the leg rest had been replaced with something that a previous owner fashioned with the bayonet and a piece of some kind of aluminum (looks like an aluminum foot off of some kind of household item…).

The store incorrectly had it listen as an XL2 and was priced accordingly. $2800.

Gig bag has mold in the accessory pouch. Soaked it in vinegar and will have to hand wash. It won’t be used except to hold on to the historical items anyway, I have a much better modern steinberger size bag.

This one is a bass I’ve wanted since 2008. At this point, it’s the end all be all for me. All gas is shut down I can’t imaging a more perfect instrument for me. I tried an XL2 before this and it just doesn’t have the same mojo as the EMG SS models. It also just felt not as sturdy. The top plate and pickups seemed like they were flimsier on the body.
 
View attachment 7035258

Count me in on this one. I just got this fantastic 1983 L2 #1333. Came with all original goodies except the leg rest had been replaced with something that a previous owner fashioned with the bayonet and a piece of some kind of aluminum (looks like an aluminum foot off of some kind of household item…).

The store incorrectly had it listen as an XL2 and was priced accordingly. $2800.

Gig bag has mold in the accessory pouch. Soaked it in vinegar and will have to hand wash. It won’t be used except to hold on to the historical items anyway, I have a much better modern steinberger size bag.

This one is a bass I’ve wanted since 2008. At this point, it’s the end all be all for me. All gas is shut down I can’t imaging a more perfect instrument for me. I tried an XL2 before this and it just doesn’t have the same mojo as the EMG SS models. It also just felt not as sturdy. The top plate and pickups seemed like they were flimsier on the body.
Gratz on the find!
 
View attachment 7035258

Count me in on this one. I just got this fantastic 1983 L2 #1333. Came with all original goodies except the leg rest had been replaced with something that a previous owner fashioned with the bayonet and a piece of some kind of aluminum (looks like an aluminum foot off of some kind of household item…).

The store incorrectly had it listen as an XL2 and was priced accordingly. $2800.

Gig bag has mold in the accessory pouch. Soaked it in vinegar and will have to hand wash. It won’t be used except to hold on to the historical items anyway, I have a much better modern steinberger size bag.

This one is a bass I’ve wanted since 2008. At this point, it’s the end all be all for me. All gas is shut down I can’t imaging a more perfect instrument for me. I tried an XL2 before this and it just doesn’t have the same mojo as the EMG SS models. It also just felt not as sturdy. The top plate and pickups seemed like they were flimsier on the body.
Wow nice find, congrats!
 
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For those of you who have installed the Nova bridge, how much of the body did you need to route out under the bridge? I was really hoping I could get away without routing but, as usual, I'm not that lucky.

I don't have one in front of me but if you have calipers to measure, I'd mount a tuner to the base with the saddle as low as it will go. Set it on a flat surface and then do the same with a "normal" bridge to gauge the difference...

If I were a betting man, I'd say 5-7mm in depth...
 
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For those of you who have installed the Nova bridge, how much of the body did you need to route out under the bridge? I was really hoping I could get away without routing but, as usual, I'm not that lucky.
I got the individual saddle Nova bridge and routed for just the "feet" the saddles sit on. I should have gone another 2-3mm but with a neck shim it worked out.

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I don't have one in front of me but if you have calipers to measure, I'd mount a tuner to the base with the saddle as low as it will go. Set it on a flat surface and then do the same with a "normal" bridge to gauge the difference...

If I were a betting man, I'd say 5-7mm in depth...
If you were a betting man you would have won! Looks like I'll need to route about 6mm at minimum.
 
OK! Getting ready for the next head-echtomy... I have an ESP LTD AP-4 (EMG p'ups in PJ, reverse head) that's going to be my next victim. I just need to decide which bridge I'm putting on it. I've got 6 right now with 2 sets of Guyker individual tuners, a silver ALP mini, the Nova I just bought here, um. An overlord of music (gross) and one other kind of in that style. I'm leaning towards Nova or ALP... This time I'm going to ask my luthier for advice and help before I cut the head off (but that doesn't mean that I'm going to listen to him!).
 
Frame was around for roughly a decade in the 90s and was located in Hamburg, Germany.

They built this model in 4 (Slave), 5 (Servant) and 6 (Master), mostly as headless basses, although I've seen at least one bass with a headstock.
The carbon necks were made by SKC Carbon (now Bogart Basses)

My bass has an asymmetric neck profile, others have a "thumb groove" on the back of the neck - pretty much an ancestor of Strandberg's Endurneck.

The EQ is per pickup, a boost-only, semi-parametric circuit.

The company was quite successful, but the owner quit building basses for a career running a scuba diving enterprise and travel.

The basses are quite rare on the used market - owners usually hang on to them.
 
Frame was around for roughly a decade in the 90s and was located in Hamburg, Germany.

They built this model in 4 (Slave), 5 (Servant) and 6 (Master), mostly as headless basses, although I've seen at least one bass with a headstock.
The carbon necks were made by SKC Carbon (now Bogart Basses)

My bass has an asymmetric neck profile, others have a "thumb groove" on the back of the neck - pretty much an ancestor of Strandberg's Endurneck.

The EQ is per pickup, a boost-only, semi-parametric circuit.

The company was quite successful, but the owner quit building basses for a career running a scuba diving enterprise and travel.

The basses are quite rare on the used market - owners usually hang on to them.
That’s really cool!!
 
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Hi! Looking for headless bass, and choosing between Ibanez EHB 1005 and Cort Space 5. Any opinions on those basses?

I've played the EHBs in music stores... not sure that's an option with the corts, but you might try tracking one down and giving it a spin.

Based on what I've seen online the biggest different is price as Cort might be making theirs out wof the same factory as the EHBs, making them physically similar, but different hardware/electronics.

In fact, if you can confirm that, and you are a tinkerer, you may go for the Cort if you expect to be modding anyway...
 
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Hi! Looking for headless bass, and choosing between Ibanez EHB 1005 and Cort Space 5. Any opinions on those basses?

Needed a spare for my main headless and just ordered the Cort mainly because of the price tag and looks, will post first impressions once it arrives.

Both are most likely made in the same Cor-Tek factory in Indonesia. Main differences would be the body/neck (EHB also has graphite reinforcement rods), electronics, fret material (SS vs nickel), and nut width (45mm vs 47mm). The Ibanez should be a bit lighter on average. Resale on the Ibanez should be better as well - I feel Cort-branded instruments are somewhat underrated due to the quality not being so good in the past.
 
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