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Help. Everyone says its so easy, I must be the worst strings changer...

I would recommend that you need more windings around the tuning pegs.
The headstock on Ibanez basses have enough back angle that three should be plenty. That's all I have on my SR400 fretless and the break angle at the nut is enough that it works with no issues. But of course you don't get fret buzz on a fretless so there's that... :)
 
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Good news!!! I raised the saddle (?) Of the E and A strings. Its now only buzzing at the first f and sometimes give some strange harmonic (?) At the A string. But I did enough for today, and atleast I can practice my first bass line (,,Too young to die ,- stu ) so.. yes Im happy for now.
Thank you alll soooo much
God bless you
P.s. I belive I have to pick up the two other strings, ha? Bc I feel diff in height when playing...
 
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A side note- perhaps it’s just buzzing because you aren’t used to the sound of new strings- the zing certainly sticks out a lot more
No, its not the case, I dont blame you for not reading the entire thread, but we covered that. Bottom line, I have changed to much lighter strings and it caused problem with tention (Here, I have learned something. ~proud~
 
Good news!!! I raised the saddle (?) Of the E and A strings. Its now only buzzing at the first f and sometimes give some strange harmonic (?) At the A string. But I did enough for today, and atleast I can practice my first bass line (,,Too young to die ,- stu ) so.. yes Im happy for now.
Thank you alll soooo much
God bless you
P.s. I belive I have to pick up the two other strings, ha? Bc I feel diff in height when playing...
The radius of the strings at the bridge is meant to be the same as the radius of the fretboard. You can get by with a tiny bit of discrepancy, but too much is noticeable as you have found out. If you cut a piece of stout paper, such as a cereal box, to match the fretboard radius you can then adjust the saddles to match the same radius.
 
The radius of the strings at the bridge is meant to be the same as the radius of the fretboard. You can get by with a tiny bit of discrepancy, but too much is noticeable as you have found out. If you cut a piece of stout paper, such as a cereal box, to match the fretboard radius you can then adjust the saddles to match the same radius.
Mmmm.... didnt get it, but I guess it has something to do with the fact its 4 in the morning here now
So goodnight for now and thanks a lot..
 
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The lesson here is if it seems too hard to do, its not right.

The lesson for talkbass is to figure out what the problem is before giving advice on how to fix it.

Unfortunately a lot of poor advice in this thread and I hope she didnt permanently damage the tuners, neck, or truss rod.

The picture showed it all. She didnt cut the strings short enough and then didnt properly wrap a couple of the strings, mostly because they were too long. She needs to then setup her bass properly.

Thats it

I really have no idea what some of you are smoking.

Just so that we’re clear:
-Dont randomly turn truss rod until you’ve set your action, or you know, even tuned the bass!

-Dont tell people to go ahead and adjust truss rod if they dont even know where it is. This should be done as specific advice if you’re certain it is the problem

-when telling someone to turn truss rod, you have to be absolutely clear. Clockwise means nothing if they happen to be looking down at the bass.

-Breakpoints on a tilting headstock almost never have a break angle problem. There was no indication at any point that this was the issue.

-You dont need to have the string in the nut until the final turn when re-stringing.

-Buzzing can mean different things to different people. Fretbuzz, nutbuzz, new string buzz, Bridgebuzz, and random screw buzz are all different and require completely different advice.
 
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Ok. I have read it, byt find it hard to understand, a lot of new words... but I really need to set them. Thecstrings b4 were much higer from the neck. Now thery are too close, and still buzzing, espicaly the three first frets on the e string but not only. I cant pay at the moment for a decent set up, because My Fender jazz special who went to the doctor is costing me a lot ( but thats what I wanted) so... i there a simple explanation with pics, about what I can do in order tobe able to play this bass until I get the other one back? I just need to practice, and its very hard like this. I just want to say that b4 I changed strings the guitar was tuned really well and now... not so.. (and its more than the new strings getting out of tune, is something with the octavs... idk....
For the buzzing, ask someone who knows how to adjust truss rods. It's easy, but also easy to get wrong and damage the bass: have help for the first time you do it!

Something you can do on your own:
If the bass was tuned really well before and now the 'octaves' are out of tune, that sounds like an intonation issue.
Get the bass strings in tune (with a tuner) first, then play each string at the octave. If it's out of tune there, adjust the bridge saddles. There are screws on the back of the bridge - one for each string. Turning them (you'll need a screwdriver) moves the 'saddle' backwards or forwards. This changes the pitch. It's much more subtle than the amount of tuning done by the tuning pegs, but it does make a difference. Just keep moving them and playing the string at the octave until it is in tune.
But be aware:the open string will now be slightly out of tune, tune it with the tuning pegs. The octave will now be out of tune again, but much less than before. Just keep going back and forth until it works.

Peace,
SoundSupport
 
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The lesson here is if it seems too hard to do, its not right.

The lesson for talkbass is to figure out what the problem is before giving advice on how to fix it.

Unfortunately a lot of poor advice in this thread and I hope she didnt permanently damage the tuners, neck, or truss rod.

The picture showed it all. She didnt cut the strings short enough and then didnt properly wrap a couple of the strings, mostly because they were too long. She needs to then setup her bass properly.

Thats it

I really have no idea what some of you are smoking.

Just so that we’re clear:
-Dont randomly turn truss rod until you’ve set your action, or you know, even tuned the bass!

-Dont tell people to go ahead and adjust truss rod if they dont even know where it is. This should be done as specific advice if you’re certain it is the problem

-when telling someone to turn truss rod, you have to be absolutely clear. Clockwise means nothing if they happen to be looking down at the bass.

-Breakpoints on a tilting headstock almost never have a break angle problem. There was no indication at any point that this was the issue.

-You dont need to have the string in the nut until the final turn when re-stringing.

-Buzzing can mean different things to different people. Fretbuzz, nutbuzz, new string buzz, Bridgebuzz, and random screw buzz are all different and require completely different advice.


Needs more mansplaining.
 
OMG
No woner I couldnt do it. I wasnt trying to push down only the string, holding it down from a distance, I was trying to keep dow the whol 2/3 wraps just around the knobs, thats why I parcialy broke two of them :( and have hardly any two nails left. I d k why, but there are things Im really really bad at, and sencless, like math, reading music, finding my way around places, and now... changing strings.
Haha me too don't feel bad. I can hardly get to my mailbox in my driveway without gps
 
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