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Help: Gibson Ripper - (Big Pics)

Senator

Senator

Nov 11, 2008
345
1
#1
I just bought a '74 Gibson Ripper that has been refinished and heavily modified.

[DEL]The control cavity seems to have the original finish.
What was the original finish?
[/DEL]



The pots/controls have been replaced to V/V/T.
Does anyone have the original schematics?



The string-through holes have been filled and replaced with a block riser & top-load bridge.
[DEL]What model bridge is it? [/DEL]
 
#4
The bridge looks like a Wilkinson. Carvin used these bridges for a while back in the '90's. The Saddles can be loosened and slid side to side for customized string spacing.

Again I say, it looks like a Wilkinson. I could be wrong.
 
#6
For wiring check out here:

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

for the full versions of these pics:

ripper-circuit.jpg


ripper-wiringBIG2.jpg
 
#7
Barkless Dog said:
Maple or Ebony fingerboard?
Click to expand...

Maple.

coreyfyfe said:
For wiring check out here:
Click to expand...

Thank you.

Jeff 66 said:
The bridge looks like a Wilkinson. Carvin used these bridges for a while back in the '90's. The Saddles can be loosened and slid side to side for customized string spacing.

Again I say, it looks like a Wilkinson. I could be wrong.
Click to expand...

Anyone have a theory to why the original bridge was replaced with this and a block?

The block looks to be the same type of wood as the body.


--------
What is the body made of?

More pics coming, if needed.
 
#8
The change was probably to get something more stable/adjustable than the stock 3-point bridge. The block is probably to make that bridge compatible with the neck height compared to the body on the ripper. The three point is a high bridge, the wilkinson is not.

As far as the body wood, probably maple. According to flyguitars, rippers were maple, switched to alder in 75, then back to maple in 77.

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
 
#9
Maybe it's a '75. I think the body felt light (alder?). I'll have to get home and check.

The person who sold it to me said it was a '74.

[DEL]
The "Guitar Dater Project" said it was a '74 or '75. [/DEL]

Funny. I thought that was what I remembered.







Your guitar was made at the
Kalamazoo or Nashville Plant , USA
approximately in: 1970, 1971 or 1972
 
#10
That website isn't reliable for the earlier serial numbers, it's good for the 8 digit, but not the 6 digit like you'd probably have on your ripper. Rippers weren't made until 1973, so it won't have a 70/71/72 stamp.
 
#11
coreyfyfe said:
That website isn't reliable for the earlier serial numbers, it's good for the 8 digit, but not the 6 digit like you'd probably have on your ripper. Rippers weren't made until 1973, so it won't have a 70/71/72 stamp.
Click to expand...

Ah.

I'll just pick it up and look at it myself, then.

If it were maple, would it be laminated on these basses? I read that somewhere.
 
#13
If the fingerboard is maple, then the original finish was merely a natural clearcoat. Any ripper with a stock finish other than natural (black or sunburst) came with ebony fingerboards. Looks like this bass has been refinished twice. The red in the cavity might have told us it was a red-burst of some sort (quite rare for rippers), but the maple fingerboard makes me think it was originally a natural finish.

On a side note, it makes me sad when people modify these basses to this degree. Mostly because I'm such a huge fan of them. Stock rippers are fantastic basses, given that it's in the hands of the right player. Plus, they're not easy to come by - ebay and craigslist are pretty much the only places I've seen them, with the occasional appearance on the used section of GC.

I digress.
 
#15
  • Should I remove the bridge/block and open up the string through holes, or would that be a waste of time?


  • What difference of having a top-load vs. the original 3-point string-through?
    (Other than the convenience of quick string changes.)


  • Maybe get a Hipshot for top-load?


 
#16
maple neck means its original finish is natural.

if it is being advertised as a 74/75 then these wiring pictures are probably more accurate. up to 78 the pickups were screwd into the boday 78 onwards the pickups were mounted on to the bridge.
76ripperWiring.jpg



[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

^^ is a good accurate website from all i've see about ripper basses.

and i imaging the block/bridge swap was due to the whole gibson tune-o-matitic supertone bridgeness which allowed very little individual string adjustments. the wholle bridge (original) could only move on three points.

top/middle

bottom/left

bottom/right

ie.. *
||||
* *


* equals bridge adjustment

| equals strings/saddles
 
#17
If you want originality, I'd say do what you can to get it back to a three point, but otherwise I think the bridge on there would provide plenty of stability and the added block wouldn't have to be removed which could potentially cause more damage than just leaving it alone.
 
#18
Senator said:
  • Should I remove the bridge/block and open up the string through holes, or would that be a waste of time?


  • What difference of having a top-load vs. the original 3-point string-through?
    (Other than the convenience of quick string changes.)


  • Maybe get a Hipshot for top-load?


Click to expand...


i would say it depends what you want from it. if you want a gibson bass the 3 point and original wiring is a big influence. chunky and there. nothing more nothing less
 
#19
mg.audio said:
If the fingerboard is maple, then the original finish was merely a natural clearcoat. Any ripper with a stock finish other than natural (black or sunburst) came with ebony fingerboards.
Click to expand...

Reeneo said:
maple neck means its original finish is natural.
Click to expand...

Ahhh.... Thanks.

coreyfyfe said:
If you want originality, I'd say do what you can to get it back to a three point, but otherwise I think the bridge on there would provide plenty of stability and the added block wouldn't have to be removed which could potentially cause more damage than just leaving it alone.
Click to expand...

I kind of do, but...

Reeneo said:
and i imaging the block/bridge swap was due to the whole gibson tune-o-matitic supertone bridgeness which allowed very little individual string adjustments. the wholle bridge (original) could only move on three points.
Click to expand...

A Hipshot A or B style bridge looks like a fit.

Side note: A luthier would be helping me.
 
#20
Senator said:
I just bought a '74 Gibson Ripper that has been refinished and heavily modified.

The control cavity seems to have the original finish.
What was the original finish?

DSC_5431.jpg



The pots/controls have been replaced to V/V/T.
Does anyone have the original schematics?



The string-through holes have been filled and replaced with a block riser & top-load bridge.
What model bridge is it?

DSC_5401.jpg


DSC_5403.jpg


DSC_5433.jpg
Click to expand...

As far as I remember, your options in '74 were black, natural, or tobacco sunburst. Either that or my dealer lied to me!
 

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