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Help! Is this a geniune Fullerton reissue P?

The think the decal is in the wrong position too.

My (often flawed) memory would suggest the same.

Also, I don't think they originally came in black. I have read that bass production did not ramp up until early 1983.

I'm not sure how to read "originally" in this particular context, but the black was widely available by late '84, when I bought my first one.
 
Looks like others have chimed in here to zero in on this being a Corona, for a variety of reasons pointed out already.

I am in agreement with them now.

Fullerton rosewood fretboards had a curved slab at the headstock. Like the original basses had up until late '62.

Exactly, and why I asked for that picture. This neck looks to be Corona made.

I will say, the pick guard looks like the classic pepperoni guard, indicative of Fullertons, but it's easy to see a scenario where an early Corona would have one too.

So - this might be a cool bass, just know what you are getting, and don't pay a "Fullerton" price for it.
 
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Thanks guys, very useful information.

The bass has been put up for sale as a 1982, but is not sold as "a Fullerton" and the price is quite a bit lower than a typical Fullterton. Still considering, but I may well pass on this.

Update:
Seller has posted info that neck is Corona. It's a parts bass. Case closed.
 
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The case is also newer.
No:
IMG_0258.JPG
 
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I would almost certainly say no - mine is an '84 and it still has the further "left" (towards the rondel) decal.
Also, I agree with the assessment that the flaking looks more poly to me (generally nitro isn't thick or stiff enough to "break" off - though that is certainly not definitive (though I don'tsee much of a fender "dip" (the yellow sealer they used) in the flakes.
The headstock also looks too orange - but given it's so bay treated, it might have changed more than mine (it look more like my 70s headstock from the shellac era) AND (here's the clincher for me) the headstock finish looks too rough - you can see streaks which suggests refinishing after removing some other decal before applying the slide.
EDIT- also - a headstock that has darkened that much naturally should have a noticeable difference in colour under the decal since it slows the oxidation of that area.
 
I have passed on this one.

Don't think there has been any dishonesty from seller. The info on the bass has just been scarse and confusing. Probably because the bass itself, being a parts bass, do not have clear lineage.

Again, thank you for your help and great knowledge on all things Fender :)
 
I have passed on this one.

Don't think there has been any dishonesty from seller. The info on the bass has just been scarse and confusing. Probably because the bass itself, being a parts bass, do not have clear lineage.

Again, thank you for your help and great knowledge on all things Fender :)

I don't think it's a parts bass, I think it is a garden variety late 80s Corona era reissue, because it has all of the appointments of that, including the case. Btw, the "pepperoni" pick guards continued into the early 90s afaik.
 
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I am watching this AVRI '57 P for sale in Germany. Serial V013299. Seller says 1982. The ad is 4 months old.
Fender 57 Reissue Precision Bass 1982
The thumbrest is a heartbreak. :crying:
Some issue with the A-string groove at the nut.
The back contour seems definitely deeper than on my 2000 AVRI '62 P, so, genuine Fullerton?
Which other details should I first look at (before asking the seller)?

The '57 Fullerton for sale (V013299):
upload_2018-1-2_7-44-46.png


My 2000 '62 (V121xxx):
upload_2018-1-2_7-46-31.png
 
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I am watching this AVRI '57 P for sale in Germany. Serial V013299. Seller says 1982. The ad is 4 months old.
Fender 57 Reissue Precision Bass 1982
The thumbrest is a heartbreak. :crying:
Some issue with the A-string groove at the nut.
The back contour seems definitely deeper than on my 2000 AVRI '62 P, so, genuine Fullerton?
Which other details should I first look at (before asking the seller)?

The '57 Fullerton for sale (V013299):
View attachment 2861219

My 2000 '62 (V121xxx):
View attachment 2861221

I’ve seen some Corona reissues that still had pretty deep contours. But you should always date it based on the neck date and pot dates (and pickup dates if present). The ser. # does at least fall in line with Fullerton production, but if the seller is not willing to show those dates, I would pass. For the kind of money that Fullertons command, having a seller verify the dates is mandatory. Too bad about the thumbrest - that will devalue it by several hundred $$s IMO.
 
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