HELP! series/parallel wiring with shielding conflict

[JimmyKickButt]

Gentlemen! I'm on the tail end of refinishing a Geddy Lee jazz body. I want to shield it with copper tape & run a spider ground as described in this thread:

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f38/jazz-shielding-pictorial-big-images-warning-159191/ (the outdated pics can be found on page 26)

I also want to use a push/pull pot for series/parallel wiring. this is my reference:

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

The issue I'm coming across is that the spider ground described in the shielding thread calls for the negative legs from the pups to be attached to the common ground point. While in the diagram for the series/parallel calls for the negative legs to be soldered to the push/pull pot. I'm clueless when it comes to the ins and outs of this sort of wiring. Am I to assume that I can't have both at the same time? If so I'll just run the standard grounding and opt for the series/parallel. Though, I'd really prefer to get my cake and eat it too.

Also, concerning the push/pull pot, I've always been under the impression that said pot could take place of the tone knob. However, in the diagram it appears to be on the volume? or completely separate in other diagrams. how does this work? Your input is appreciated. Thanks!

 

[bassbenj]

Gentlemen! I'm on the tail end of refinishing a Geddy Lee jazz body. I want to shield it with copper tape & run a spider ground as described in this thread:

http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f38/jazz-shielding-pictorial-big-images-warning-159191/ (the outdated pics can be found on page 26)

I also want to use a push/pull pot for series/parallel wiring. this is my reference:

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

The issue I'm coming across is that the spider ground described in the shielding thread calls for the negative legs from the pups to be attached to the common ground point. While in the diagram for the series/parallel calls for the negative legs to be soldered to the push/pull pot. I'm clueless when it comes to the ins and outs of this sort of wiring. Am I to assume that I can't have both at the same time? If so I'll just run the standard grounding and opt for the series/parallel. Though, I'd really prefer to get my cake and eat it too.

Also, concerning the push/pull pot, I've always been under the impression that said pot could take place of the tone knob. However, in the diagram it appears to be on the volume? or completely separate in other diagrams. how does this work? Your input is appreciated. Thanks!

This is not as big a problem as you think! The deal is that when wiring pickups for series you connect the ground wire of one pickup to the "hot" wire of the other one so the signal in effect comes out of one goes into the "ground" of the next pickup which then adds it's contribution to the sound. This means that ONE of the pickups has a ground that goes to the switch that can switch between true ground (the "star" (you've called it a "spider") or the output of the other pickup. Does that make sense?

There is no problem doing a "star" ground on your series/parallel wiring diagram. Make your grounding point (usually as near as you can get to output jack and then you simply run all groung wires to that point. The grounds will be that wire going down the backs of the pots. Grounds to the "star" will include bridge, pickup grounds (One from a pup, and one from the switch), the jack ground (This also grounds control plate) , and the shielding (copper or paint...You ground paint with a wood screw and lock washer with "teeth). Run tone cap ground to output jack ground instead of soldering backs of pots. There is NO reason to solder backs of pots. It only heats them and is not a good ground as they are crimped on. You are NOT relying on them for shielding (as in a cheap bass). The cavity coating will be your shielding and be sure to run a ground wire from the star to that (unless the "star" is a screw through the copper that grounds it.)

While a "star" ground is considered "best", for a properly shielded bass cavity it will make virtually no difference in noise level. (which should be non-existent except for single coil hum).

By the way, at minimum, tack your copper tape together with solder even if you are using conductive glue tape as the conductive glue will dry out after some years and you'll lose contact with the shielding if you don't have a solder connection.

As for the push-pull switch thing. The switch is independent of the pot, so it can be located on any pot if you can buy one of the correct value with a switch. I sort of prefer mine on the volume because it just seems handier, but many prefer it on the tone so you don't mess with volume settings when you start pushing and pulling on the knob. But I prefer it on the volume knob BECAUSE you'll find series is louder than parallel hence you may need to compensate right away. And if it's on the volume knob you are already in position to do that! OK?

Good luck!

 

[JimmyKickButt]

Savvy! Thank you very much. You've done an excellent job clarifying things. I'll let you know how it goes.