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hey small head manufacturers: mini rant coming

I use this,works like a charm and lighter than a pedalboard.

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If the pots have metal bushings and nuts, then the circuit board will sustain little or no damage if the knobs get whacked.

This is exactly how we build all of our amps, all metal pots with threaded metal bushings, nuts on each bushing AND metal shafts. They solder directly to mil spec. double sided glass-epoxy PCBs that have plated through holes so the solder joint acts like a rivet with no danger of weak solder joints. Controls and PCBs are the last place any manufacturer should attempt to cut costs IMO.
 
This is exactly how we build all of our amps, all metal pots with threaded metal bushings, nuts on each bushing AND metal shafts. They solder directly to mil spec. double sided glass-epoxy PCBs that have plated through holes so the solder joint acts like a rivet with no danger of weak solder joints. Controls and PCBs are the last place any manufacturer should attempt to cut costs IMO.

I have no doubts that some manufacturers cut corners here. I really wish magazine reviews would open the hoods up and show the construction of amps. It would tell a lot.

And, maybe even do a couple of drop tests.
 
Without having read the entire thread im not sure if it's relevant at this point, but over the summer dropped my STLM 6.0 right on its face from about 5 feet. Other than slight scratches on the knobs, no damage. Impact is proportional to mass and it would seem a 4lb amp can't really do much damage to itself in this fashion. It would seem to me a 35lb amp would do more damage to itself if dropped from the same height, regardless of how the pots are secured.
 
i have always beeimpressed by genz benz, derek. i consider roger and andy to be two of my best talkbass pals, they're very forward thinking, they have cs that's second to none, and it's apparent with the streamliner that they're working very hard to bridge the "whomp factor" gap between micros and tube amps. i totally respect that and i have nothing but good to say about them and the products they make that i've tried.

but dang, i so don't need a 900w amp. even a 600w amp is ridiculous overkill for me. hell, even the b-15's clean power is too loud for most of my gigs, and it's only 25w! i think the market for high powered micros is way bigger than smaller power, most definitely, so i can't blame them for smacking down on that market, but it's so not what i need. if they ever make a streamliner 100, that would be more up my alley. don't see that happening, though ;)

but they are a wonderful company and i'll never say a bad word about them.

Ya, I've been giging with a GK 112MBE and 112 MBX as of late and digging it, 150 watts is all I really need and if I need more, there's aways the P.A
 
This is exactly how we build all of our amps, all metal pots with threaded metal bushings, nuts on each bushing AND metal shafts. They solder directly to mil spec. double sided glass-epoxy PCBs that have plated through holes so the solder joint acts like a rivet with no danger of weak solder joints. Controls and PCBs are the last place any manufacturer should attempt to cut costs IMO.

Ok...That is just sexy talk, and its making me weak in the knees. oooh Baby!
 
A cart?!?! It's a 7lb micro-head, what do you need a cart for?

For one of my groups we'll play 2 or 3 different locations in a day (driving in between them). I need to be quick for transport/setup/play/teardown. I will sometimes bring my K10 as a small PA, so I've got:

Berg AE112 cab
QSC K10 cab
amp head (in its carry bag)
music stand (in its carry bag)
cable bag (especially if I'm bringing mics/cables)
bass (in a gig bag, with chart books or lately, iPad), usually on my back
mic stand (sometimes)

I can hand carry most of that in one load, but often I'm walking a fair distance from car to where we play. Screw that - I use an R6 cart.

Amp head is at the shop now. We'll see whether they warranty the repair. While I admit that it fell off the cart, it was in a proper bag, and there is a question of what constitutes real-world wear and tear for an amp head.
 
This is exactly how we build all of our amps, all metal pots with threaded metal bushings, nuts on each bushing AND metal shafts. They solder directly to mil spec. double sided glass-epoxy PCBs that have plated through holes so the solder joint acts like a rivet with no danger of weak solder joints. Controls and PCBs are the last place any manufacturer should attempt to cut costs IMO.

I have a Streamliner pre-ordered. Glad to hear this - now I just need to figure out the right bag :D
 
Without having read the entire thread im not sure if it's relevant at this point, but over the summer dropped my STLM 6.0 right on its face from about 5 feet. Other than slight scratches on the knobs, no damage. Impact is proportional to mass and it would seem a 4lb amp can't really do much damage to itself in this fashion. It would seem to me a 35lb amp would do more damage to itself if dropped from the same height, regardless of how the pots are secured.

This is true, but if the amp landed on it's knobs and the pots were not mechanically attached to the metalwork, the energy of impact has to go somewhere and the attachment to the PCB is next in line.

On reason (IMO) that manufacturers of the lightweight products need to address this is the higher potential fo an amp of this type to get pulled off of a cabinet if somebody runs out of cord or trips on the cord.
 
This is true, but if the amp landed on it's knobs and the pots were not mechanically attached to the metalwork, the energy of impact has to go somewhere and the attachment to the PCB is next in line.

On reason (IMO) that manufacturers of the lightweight products need to address this is the higher potential fo an amp of this type to get pulled off of a cabinet if somebody runs out of cord or trips on the cord.

wait, a respected/competent engineer agreed with my premise? I must be slipping.

Or as they say, "even a blind squirrel finds a nut now and again" :p
 
On reason (IMO) that manufacturers of the lightweight products need to address this is the higher potential fo an amp of this type to get pulled off of a cabinet if somebody runs out of cord or trips on the cord.

I put a set of jumbo stick-on rubber feet from Radio Shack on the bottom of my Shuttle 9 and it's a great improvement over the OEM feet from the moving around/falling off the cabinet POV. I loop my cable through the cabinet handle to prevent pulling the amp off.

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