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High Mass Bridges vs. Vintage Bridges

Can we then define 'stable' as the fact that the adjusters stay in one place? I don't think the metal of the bridge itself is flexing or moving.

To me that means mostly two things: side to side stability and downward pressure on the plate by the saddles, which although not a huge deal makes setup easier for me.

I don't like the 201 because the barrel size is so large it has expodential impacts on set up (string height, neck angle, pickup height, etc) . that's why i like the wilkinson, the barrels are only slightly larger than stand fender size.
 
For me, the appeal of HM bridges lies not in how it affects the tone or sustain (negligibly, IMO), but in the way they hold tune and intonation more solidly and for longer than the standard bridges. It's easier to adjust a BA bridge than a standard Fender one.

I haven't found that the intonation holds for any less time using a standard bridge. One of mine "standard bridge" models has held intonation for over 30 years.

Nor are BAs any easier to adjust than standard Fender bridges. They're both have exactly the same adjustments, two height adjustment screws and one intonation screw per saddle.
 
I don't like the 201 because the barrel size is so large it has expodential impacts on set up (string height, neck angle, pickup height, etc) .

Ditto. I ended up switching the Gotoh barrels with Fender factory barrels. They fit fine and were much better for setup. Ultimately got rid of both basses that I put 201's on (MIM Fender PJ's) and enjoy everything stock on my '08 Am Std Jazz.
 
I know there have been some posters/poseurs who state that their barrels slip on the allen screw threads on some of the Fender bridges.

Not noticed by me yet, and I run the gauntlet from the bottom feeder Affinity to a MiM and still no troubles that way.

It might be nice to have the small grooves in the P in the other basses - but it's no biggie to me as I don't try to pull the strings 'round to the other side of the body when I play.
 
I haven't found that the intonation holds for any less time using a standard bridge. One of mine "standard bridge" models has held intonation for over 30 years.

Nor are BAs any easier to adjust than standard Fender bridges. They're both have exactly the same adjustments, two height adjustment screws and one intonation screw per saddle.
No doubt. It's all in one's subjective experience. I personally find it easier, but as it turns out I did just switch back to a regular Fender bridge and I'm happy with the lack of difference. I'll sell or repurpose the BA.
 
I haven't found that the intonation holds for any less time using a standard bridge. One of mine "standard bridge" models has held intonation for over 30 years.
i'll argue that the "real" vintage bridge with the threaded rod saddles will be more stable that the crappy '70s (and modern MIM) versions with the one big groove per saddle; that one tends to have space between the saddles, allowing them to slide around and get out of adjustment, while the threaded-rod types use the string pressure to hold all 4 saddles tightly against each other, eliminating any movement (and improving tone and sustain).
 
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I don't make any claims that one or the other is better, but I do know I much prefer the vintage Fender style low mass bridge, however, I'm not sure I buy into all the hype surrounding the HM ones either. I also have never run into the supposed problems of instability or moving saddles on a LM bridge. Even on a cheaper instrument like an SX or Squier, the bridges on mine are rock solid.
 
Re: jc_bass's comments:

I realised that the tip of the ground wire under the bridge (which is always bent to the G side so it makes an anchor anle) was giving enough space to lift the bridge up on the G string side...eventhough the bridge screws where puting all the pressure against it!!!!!

I checked out my other Fender basses.......same thing happened! So I just took the tip of the wire, and bent it to the side of the bottom, directed to the screws right in the middle of the bridge. Now the plate was laying right flat against the body!!!! Restringed and.....voilá!!!! Now it sounded great!!!

Thank you for sharing this experience! I examined my Jazz bass & Gotoh 201 bridge and realized it had the same problem: the bridge was firmly anchored, but the G-side corner of the bridge plate was lifted up just slightly by the ground wire underneath -- not a visible gap, but there was enough space to slide a thin piece of paper under that corner.
I repositioned the ground wire and reinstalled the bridge, eliminating that gap and giving more bridge-to-body contact area.
Haven't plugged in to determine if any significant audible change, but it *feels* like the bass's body is a bit more resonant when playing D and G string notes. (Of course, now I'm paying extra attention to that, so maybe perceiver bias is driving that feel...)

A good tip that never would have occurred to me to check for.

Cheers!

Jay

PS: I don't know if there's a tonal difference between the stock MIM Jazz bridge vs. the Gotoh 201 I'm currently using. I prefer the Gotoh simply because the shape/size is more comfortable on the edge of my right hand when I'm picking close the bridge.