Can we then define 'stable' as the fact that the adjusters stay in one place? I don't think the metal of the bridge itself is flexing or moving.
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Can we then define 'stable' as the fact that the adjusters stay in one place? I don't think the metal of the bridge itself is flexing or moving.
For me, the appeal of HM bridges lies not in how it affects the tone or sustain (negligibly, IMO), but in the way they hold tune and intonation more solidly and for longer than the standard bridges. It's easier to adjust a BA bridge than a standard Fender one.
I don't like the 201 because the barrel size is so large it has expodential impacts on set up (string height, neck angle, pickup height, etc) .
No doubt. It's all in one's subjective experience. I personally find it easier, but as it turns out I did just switch back to a regular Fender bridge and I'm happy with the lack of difference. I'll sell or repurpose the BA.I haven't found that the intonation holds for any less time using a standard bridge. One of mine "standard bridge" models has held intonation for over 30 years.
Nor are BAs any easier to adjust than standard Fender bridges. They're both have exactly the same adjustments, two height adjustment screws and one intonation screw per saddle.
Ditto. I ended up switching the Gotoh barrels with Fender factory barrels. They fit fine and were much better for setup.
i'll argue that the "real" vintage bridge with the threaded rod saddles will be more stable that the crappy '70s (and modern MIM) versions with the one big groove per saddle; that one tends to have space between the saddles, allowing them to slide around and get out of adjustment, while the threaded-rod types use the string pressure to hold all 4 saddles tightly against each other, eliminating any movement (and improving tone and sustain).I haven't found that the intonation holds for any less time using a standard bridge. One of mine "standard bridge" models has held intonation for over 30 years.
For those not wanting to change saddles a shim fixes that quite well.
I found that if I tilt the barrels a little so the string pressure pushes the barrels together, they don't move at all.
You are entirely welcome. Sometimes I feel like I am only talking to myself. Nice to know someone heard occasionally and that they found what I had to say at all useful.
These bridge problems really are crazy. I've never had a problem with any of my bridges. For me, high mass bridges are a cosmetic improvement. I really don't buy into the better tone theory.
I realised that the tip of the ground wire under the bridge (which is always bent to the G side so it makes an anchor anle) was giving enough space to lift the bridge up on the G string side...eventhough the bridge screws where puting all the pressure against it!!!!!
I checked out my other Fender basses.......same thing happened! So I just took the tip of the wire, and bent it to the side of the bottom, directed to the screws right in the middle of the bridge. Now the plate was laying right flat against the body!!!! Restringed and.....voilá!!!! Now it sounded great!!!