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Hohner B2B headless...intonation blocks...how to set up?

I have a Hohner / Steinberger headless bass B2B...The small brick shaped bass copy of the original graphite Steiny. Just putting strings on and quite surprised to find the intonation saddles are just floating freely. Just wondering if someone can explain how these work? namely the front and back screws...I guess front screws for string height. Are back screws just to balance the front or are they to adjust intonation....because adj of the back screws does seem to affect intonation when I was doing the set up...

Also, the saddles have a groove where the string sits....there is a short groove and a long groove, the front is different to the back....as mine popped out not sure which goes to the front 😞

How do you guys set up these blocks? I know now I should have taken note of where they were before loosening them as the intonation was perfect before.
Approximate distance from string ball end holder block to back of the saddle block as a starting point?


Any help appreciated
 
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i thought the bridge was basically the same as the old spector stuff, i had a ns2a years ago... so i assume there are allen wrench holes on the sides of that bridge? so you can lock them down after sliding them into intonation. i'm thinking of getting a B2A hohner soon, i just thought those bridges basically operate the same... lock it from the sides?
 
If it’s like the Cort and a couple of the other licensed bridges there should be a set screw on one or both sides of the bridge wall that push the saddles together once they’re in position. To set intonation you loosen the screw(s) on the side and move the saddle to where you think it goes then tune up, check and repeat as needed. The screws in the top of the saddles are for setting the string height. Once it’s all good tighten the screws on the side of the bridge to hold everything together. I can try to remember to get some pictures tomorrow.
 
I had a Hohner B2A a long time ago. I remember it the way @Matt Liebenau describes. The set screw on the side locks the saddle blocks in place or allows them to move.

It also usually means you can't change your E string without freeing the saddle block and move it forward. So you get to set the intonation all over again afterwards.
 
I had a Hohner B2A a long time ago. I remember it the way @Matt Liebenau describes. The set screw on the side locks the saddle blocks in place or allows them to move.

It also usually means you can't change your E string without freeing the saddle block and move it forward. So you get to set the intonation all over again afterwards.
Yeah got the information on the side screw in the block holds the saddles in place now lol. Who'd of thought :-) Some quirky but very practical innovations on this bass. Also judging by some of the photos online it looks like the grooves in the saddles have the smaller groove facing forward? And yes I had to move my blocks out of the way to pop my string ball ends back in...problem excaerbated on mine because I put the little clutch bearings on the back and took about an extra 1mm of the thread on the tuner thumb screw thread
 
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The hohner/Steinberger copy intonates like any other instrument. Just to check the open harmonic versus the 12th position tone. They should be identical. Once all blocks are in the proper position use the set screw to lock them. Regarding inserting the strings, many times you can simply back out the string capture all the way to allow it to capture a ball end. Once the string is encapsulated in the holder, push the holder back towards the tuning screw, and you will be able to re-thread it back on and tighten to proper pitch. There is a modification for the top of the headstock position that will allow you to use standard strings. It is a replacement part for the end of the neck. If you need further information, let me know. I had the Steinberger spirit which is fairly identical. I also had a B2a 30 years ago.
 
Also judging by some of the photos online it looks like the grooves in the saddles have the smaller groove facing forward?
Yes, that’s kind of standard for all electric instrument saddles. The long part is to allow the rear part of the string to angle down and back (to whatever is holding the ball end), the short part leaves the string free to vibrate.