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How can a B-string s*ck?

Hey there,

I often read that people complaining about their B-string, asking how the low B is on other basses or even advertise with "fantastic low B-string!".

That makes me wonder, why (does it seem) to be so complicated to make a good low B but EADG ares fine - even on the same bass? Where are the problems? What makes a "bad B" on a bass so bad? :eyebrow:

The only time I played a 5er was once for a jam, lent from a buddy. So, I'm not really into 5er and therefor I don't know what's going on there... I can understand how G-strings suck, but that would requier more female content here :hiding:
 
Mainly a tension issue. if the tension is low compared to the other strings it tends to flop around and cause some buzzing.... learning to play it softly helps to decrease the S***iness of it
 
Less desirable B strings sound flabby and a little dead, like they don't have enough energy, and don't sound as musical. String choice can moderate it some. Making sure that the bass is as perfectly adjusted as it can be, action-wise and harmonically, is the only way out of it with any given bass. It's one of those things you learn to recognize when you hear it.
 
To me a bad "B" is one that sounds boomy, lacks definition and it's flabby.

Judging from my personal experience I'll say that some basses will make it sound good even when it's on a 4 string bass (Warwicks for ex), while others will still have a boomy "B" even if the bass is a 5er (like my Ibbys). So to me it looks the solution is somewhere in the design itself - some basses sound awesome no matter what strings are on and through most rigs, and some will sound good only with certain strings and through some specific rigs.
 
I had a Washburn Bantam 2005 which had been modded with a Bartolini pickup. To be honest, I was very disappointed in the tone & the B was pretty poor.

I decided to part with it, but since I had the original pup, I thought I'd sell the bass as stock & sell the Bart separately, which is what I did.

However, as I replaced the original pu to send it to the buyer, I found the tone was now excellent & the B was great!! Go figure!

Too late, as I had made the sale & had to part with it, but I'm always on the lookout for another. So that, to me, shows that the pickup coverage of the low end has at least something to do with it, but I suspect it's complicated. YMMV.

G.
 
One of the reasons why I've ditched 5 string bass guitars. But honestly, I think it's mainly an issue when you hear the bass soloed. Some floppy b strings can sound fine in the mix.

I think the most solid B strings I've heard were the ones on a Warwick Streamer Jazzman 5, A Stingray 5, A Lakland 55-02 and a 6 string Ibanez Prestige Soundgear. Don't ask me what the hell I was doing with a 6 string:D

Most ****** were the ones on a Fender Jazz 5, a Traben John Moyer Havoc? and an Ibanez SRX 705.

But **** all that gear fixation. Now I've just "settled" with a Fender Precision and now I spend more time playing the damn instrument instead tone chasing or what the hell you want to call it.

BTW: I have an Ibanez ATK (old Japanese model) that sounds amazing when it's strung with BEAD strings. Much better than any 5 string I've ever tried. Huh?
 
Mainly a tension issue. if the tension is low compared to the other strings it tends to flop around and cause some buzzing.... learning to play it softly helps to decrease the S***iness of it

This is the central issue, I think.

String thickness is central. The thicker the string, the more tension it will take and still vibrate slowly. Of course, this stresses the neck. Judging the tradeoffs between neck size, string tension, and string thickness is what luthiers do. Some do it right, others not so much.
 
Side question, based on my relative inexperience with 5s... Are there many 35"-scale 5ers with bad B strings?

I played some 34" models that I didn't like, although I know there are some good ones. The only 35" models I've played, I liked - one enough to buy.
 
I find that having a nice big fat humbucker at the bridge helps a ton, as does using a .130 or .135 string (on a 34" scale).

Converting my Brubaker Brute from JJ with Barts to MM/J with SGD's certainly made a 100% difference and turned that bass from sounding 'meh' to coming quite close to my USA Spector with 35" scale. Not identical, but certainly close enough that I can use either one depending on my mood and still get my sound.
 
A lot of things conspire to make a lifeless B string;

-A poor woods combination for the instrument
-A poor break angle at the bridge
-An incorrectly filed nut slot
-Lack of overall structural rigidity in the instrument
-Too small a string gauge (or poor string)
 
A lot of things conspire to make a lifeless B string;

-A poor woods combination for the instrument
-A poor break angle at the bridge
-An incorrectly filed nut slot
-Lack of overall structural rigidity in the instrument
-Too small a string gauge (or poor string)

Good points, but I'm not convinced about string gauge. Some here prefer thinner gauges for their B string -- various reasons, but the most common is that thicker gauges can be difficult to intonate properly, especially if not tapered. On that note, I'll add

- A poorly intonated B string can sound floppy
- Certainly, a dirty/dead B string will be floppy

I've seen posts here where someone said "I tried an XXXX fiver at Guitar Center and it had a floppy B string, so I'll never buy an XXXX fiver". Well, come on: GC is not known for instrument maintenance. It's very possible the bass had dead strings, was poorly intonated, or both.
 
I could go on about this at some length, but don't have time at the moment.

Not only are most of the problems listed here real, they aren't even a complete list. No one has mentioned the fact that low B fundamental is beneath the ability of many bass amp/cabs to even reproduce.

Low B is so far over the edge of the reliably possible in so many ways, I've been amazed it ever works at all.

Not a fan of the concept.

Interestingly, I've been encountering "quality" four-string basses that are evincing some of the problems mentioned -- on the open E.
 
Most low B string issues can be fixed with a good set a strings and a good setup.

Try flattening out the neck more on your 5 string bass. In most cases the low B will be better.

I learned this with the 4003s5 basses. They a 33 1/4" scale basses and they came from the factory with a .115 low B but still the low B worked good. Why? flat necks.

Also turn up the mids to make a low B sound good. If you drown a low B by turning up the bass then it will be muddy. You need overtones to make the bass sound good.
 
No one has mentioned the fact that low B fundamental is beneath the ability of many bass amp/cabs to even reproduce.[/I].

Possibly because it's irrelevant. I play five string through the Bergantino NV610, which (like the Ampeg 8x10) rolls off above 40Hz. One of my bands detunes a half step, and plays modern rock songs where I stay well below low E, even to C#, C, and B. Those low notes punch through wonderfully because of harmonic overtones.

Also turn up the mids to make a low B sound good. If you drown a low B by turning up the bass then it will be muddy. You need overtones to make the bass sound good.

Exactly. Those lowest fundamentals cause all kinds of havoc onstage: interfering with the kick drum, muddying the mix.
 
I could go on about this at some length, but don't have time at the moment.

Not only are most of the problems listed here real, they aren't even a complete list. No one has mentioned the fact that low B fundamental is beneath the ability of many bass amp/cabs to even reproduce.

Low B is so far over the edge of the reliably possible in so many ways, I've been amazed it ever works at all.

Not a fan of the concept.

Interestingly, I've been encountering "quality" four-string basses that are evincing some of the problems mentioned -- on the open E.

I agree that in a bass guitar a B string is pretty much heading for if not over the edge. It's right at the limit of what is doable with a scale that short. Hence the B string shows up the most problems. (and occasionally an open E as well...Although the E problem was far more noticeable on my short scale bass.)

Now I'm also amazed that it works as well as it does, although I happen to be a big fan! And as I big fan all the basses I own have great B strings (except for my Fender 2002 which has a passable B string!). I picked them that way! If a bass has just a floppy or otherwise nasty B string I simple don't buy it, so I am a bit spoiled! But all this has led me to be convinced that it is the design and build of the guitar that makes the difference. I've tried a wide variety of strings on my basses and on the great ones (like my Ken Smith for example) the B string always seems great no matter what the strings. And the fact that people report that later Fenders than mine have much better B strings seems to say that they did something to the design of the bass to make the B better. The scale length and strings are still the same.
 
This is the central issue, I think.

String thickness is central. The thicker the string, the more tension it will take and still vibrate slowly. Of course, this stresses the neck. Judging the tradeoffs between neck size, string tension, and string thickness is what luthiers do. Some do it right, others not so much.


I have found that using a smaller gauge B actually works a lot better. Brad Johnson brought this up in a couple of threads. I just put a 120-40 set on my Fender P5, lowered the action and its just great. The B responds a lot quicker and sounds killer.