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How do you power your pedalboard?

#42
I found a list of which pedals are compatible with the one spot, and which ones need adapters or dont work... Here yago!



Akai – All pedals
Aphex – All pedals
Arion – All pedals
Austone – All pedals
Boss – All pedals
Barber – All pedals
Carl Martin (all models without AC cord)
Casio Keyboards
Danelectro – All pedals
Demeter Tremulator – C35
Digitech
X series pedals
RP50, BP50, BP80
RP100, BP100 – CL6
RP200 and higher – not compatible
DOD – All pedals (older models require C35)
Dunlop –
Crybaby Wahs
Rotovibe
Uni-Vibe Stereo Chorus
EBS – All pedals
Electro-Harmonix –
Big Muff – C35 (USA), CBAT (Russian)
Bass Balls – C35
Holy Grail – C35 (requires separate 1 SPOT to avoid noise)
Small Clone – C35
Small Stone – C35
Holier Grail, Frequency Analyzer, MicroSynth, Q-Tron, Tube pedals – not compatible
Expandora
Frantone – All pedals (except Glacier); for pre-2002 models, use C35
Fulltone – All pedals (except 69, Soul Bender, Octafuzz – these require CYR on a separate 1 SPOT from other
“normal” pedals.)
Guyatone – All pedals
Ibanez – All pedals (some older models require C35)
Jacques – All pedals C35
Line 6 - POD – not compatible
Modeling Pedals – CL6
Tone Core Pedals – Yes, but not recommended for more than one Tone Core plus other brands of pedals
Marshall – All pedals
Maxon – All pedals
Moogerfooger – All pedals – CYR (each Moogerfooger pedal requires separate 1 SPOT to avoid noise)
Morley – All pedals
MXR – Auto Q
EQ – not compatible
Dime Distortion – not compatible
Doubleshot Distortion – not compatible
All single effects (new)
All single effects (old) – C35
Nobels – All pedals
RAT (all models C35)
Rocktron – All pedals except Silver Dragon
Roger Mayer (all models; some require CBAT)
Seymore Duncan Pickup Booster
T-Rex – All pedals (except AC cord models)
Tubeworks – AC cord included
Voodoo Lab – All pedals
Yamaha – Keyboards, samplers, drum machines – CYR
Zoom – All pedals
ZVEX – All pedals CBAT
 
#44
wayshot said:
I've got two alternatives of power supply for my four pedals:

1) Unregulated 9V 1A wall wart originating from an ooooold Commodore inkjet printer. Works, but causes 50-cycle hum when an effect is activated.

2) Battery-based power supply. A 6 x AA battery holder loaded with rechargeables connected to a 2.1 mm power plug. No hum, no power socket required on stage, but a bit unreliable due to contact problems sometimes.
Click to expand...


DON'T use an unregulated power supply for an effect unit...HUMMMMMM!!!

I've checked out the specs on the supplies sold by dick smith...I have one that makes a RACKET...it's basically unuseable

right now, I'm using batteries instead....

i'm going to test a solution: a 220uF electrolytic capacitor in parallal with a 0.1uF ceramic capacitor across the 9V supply...

this is basically the filter used on most good power supplies, for about $2 in parts, it's worth a shot...
 
#45
My One Spot shorted (:mad: :mad: :mad: ), so now I'm daisy chaining off a Radio Shack 1500mA universal. I also have it off a mammoth of a power strip from Home Depot which supposedly is guaranteed to protect up to $20,000 worth of equipment. Then again, I never sent in the warantee, so hope for the best, I guess. :confused:
 
#46
It's not the regulation that stops the hum but the filtering. Many cheap wall warts have poor quality (or even no) filter caps. External filtering can help, but it's often better to just buy a decent supply and be done with it.

For those Aussies here, a "1 Spot near-equivalent" can be bought from Jaycar (MP3136) for AUD$22.45. It's not quite as powerful when you look at the specs, but I'd say there's very little difference between them in most circumstances. Considering the 1 Spot would cost you at least AUD$35 + shipping it's not a bad deal.

Similar ones sold at Dick Smith have inferior specs.
 
#47
PilbaraBass said:
DON'T use an unregulated power supply for an effect unit...HUMMMMMM!!!

I've checked out the specs on the supplies sold by dick smith...I have one that makes a RACKET...it's basically unuseable

right now, I'm using batteries instead....

i'm going to test a solution: a 220uF electrolytic capacitor in parallal with a 0.1uF ceramic capacitor across the 9V supply...

this is basically the filter used on most good power supplies, for about $2 in parts, it's worth a shot...
Click to expand...

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

instead of a transformer use a unregulated 12v wallwart
 
#48
Tired_Thumb said:
...which supposedly is guaranteed to protect up to $20,000 worth of equipment.
Click to expand...
Guarantee fine print:
"Only valid if the user has six toes on each hand, eats glass for breakfast and lives 18.3597 miles NNE of Saskatoon in a thatch hut that is heated by Bison outgassings from the first day of winter during which it drops below 9.357 degrees celsius for a sustained period of at least 1,349 seconds, until the first day of spring during which the sun reaches 47.329 degrees from the horizon as measured by a circa 1789 sextant with Mammoth ivory inlays..."
 
#50
I use one of these here: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....MESE:IT&viewitem=&item=320089174594&rd=1&rd=1

It's basically the same as the One Spot but has two major advantages: firstly it's cheaper (as well as not having to pay extra for the daisy chain like you do with the One Spot) and, secondly, the daisy chain is integral rather than plugging on the end of the lead so it can't come disconnected if someone trips over the lead on stage.

Also available with a US plug here: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....MESE:IT&viewitem=&item=320089174610&rd=1&rd=1

And a European plug here: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....MESE:IT&viewitem=&item=320089174652&rd=1&rd=1

:bassist: :hyper: :bassist:
 
#51
one said:
As the title says!

I use a Soundlab power bank! UK powerlead and UK voltage, 5 9V outputs, 5 300mm power leads, 450mA, positive tip with a master on/off switch!
Invalid Link Removed
Isn't the greatest ever but gets the job done! has never let me down, nor my guitard for that matter, who also owns one!

What do you use?
Click to expand...

I have one of those, they are regulated and they work well. There is a proper 3 pin socket on a trailing cable and I prefer that to a wall wart. It is a bit heavy but it is tidy.

Sadly, these have now been taken off the Maplin catalogue. (relevant to UK only)
 
#53
I picked up a SKB-25 pedal board at the pawn shop- it has a wall wart of its own and provides power for all of my pedals except the MuTron, which needs 18 V. So I have a power strip for the pedal board's and the MuTron's wall warts right on the board itself. I used a power strip with a 9' cable which makes it pretty flexible to power up.
 
#54
niftydog said:
It's not the regulation that stops the hum but the filtering. Many cheap wall warts have poor quality (or even no) filter caps. External filtering can help, but it's often better to just buy a decent supply and be done with it.

For those Aussies here, a "1 Spot near-equivalent" can be bought from Jaycar (MP3136) for AUD$22.45. It's not quite as powerful when you look at the specs, but I'd say there's very little difference between them in most circumstances. Considering the 1 Spot would cost you at least AUD$35 + shipping it's not a bad deal.

Similar ones sold at Dick Smith have inferior specs.
Click to expand...


true...but an unregulated supply does not maintain a constant voltage...

you are absolutely correct about the filtering and quality (or lack thereof) of capacitors...this is precisely why my cheap wal-wart hummms like a hornet's nest...

since I already have it, however, I'm simply going so spend a couple of dollars and install a 220uF electrolytic in parallel with a 1uF ceramic between the +9V and the 0V of the power supply...I have every confidence that this will work like a champ...

UPDATE: Didn't work...it's still one noisy power supply...I checked the AC voltage with my meter (don't have access to a scope at home...it measured 19.7VAC!!!!! no wonder this thing hums like a house of hornets...

I'm getting a 9V VR and slapping it in downstream of another 12V supply I have lying around...hopefully THIS will work...I'm getting a tad frust-a-rated
 
#59
Warwick Rockbag pedalboard #23110 with the original wall wart, BUT I also carry a back-up power supply that is tested and fully functional. the Warcick routes power through the board and provided multiple power connections from board to pedals, minimizing cable mess and using only a single power connector to AC.

I also changed the power connector on the pedal board and the original power supply - it came with a 1/8" mini connector which provides a rather tentative connection and was prone to popping loose. It was a TERRIBLE choice for a power supply connector. I changed to the M-size power connectors typically used on 9V devices, as that connector provides a much more secure connection. changing the connector on the wall wart was trivial, and the pedal board had plenty of internal room to remove the original DC jack and install a much more substantial all-metal Radio Shack M-size connector.

P6010070.gif


Incidentally, I really like this Warwick. It is very handy and comes with its own nylon cordura carry case which has plenty of pockets and room for carrying cables. it's not heavy enough for 20 gigs a month, but for most of us it's well-made enough to last for years. The carry bag is really a nice unit, with plenty of storage pockets.
 

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