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How many wraps around each post?

#43
FunkMetalBass said:
I use as many as necessary to get a good break angle on the string.
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This.

If you have an angled headstock, you only need one or two wraps. More wraps has no positive impact on anything. Indeed, too many wraps can be a detriment. On my Fender-style headstocks that do not angle, I still try to get away with as few wraps as possible to provide a good string break over the nut, and the A string almost always needs as many wraps as possible to provide that break over the nut.
 
#45
Electricblue said:
Not to rattle your cage, but does this really happen in realistic circumstances?
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Not to speak for the poster who you directed the question to, but my 2 cents:

Absolutely, especially on non-angled headstocks. Especially the A string. If you only have a couple of wraps there, the string crosses the nut slot almost horizontal to the fretboard and never breaks downward at an angle. It will buzz. What you're actually hearing is the string vibrating in the nut slot because of the lack of downward pressure on the nut.
 
#46
electracoyote said:
Not to speak for the poster who you directed the question to, but my 2 cents:

Absolutely, especially on non-angled headstocks. Especially the A string. If you only have a couple of wraps there, the string crosses the nut slot almost horizontal to the fretboard and never breaks downward at an angle. It will buzz. What you're actually hearing is the string vibrating in the nut slot because of the lack of downward pressure on the nut.
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Frankly if that was happening to my bass, I would invest in a better designed neck.
 
#47
Electricblue said:
Frankly if that was happening to my bass, I would invest in a better designed neck.
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Ha!

Well, it happens on Fender-style necks from the cheapest Affinity Squier to the most expensive Custom Shop models. It could be considered a design flaw, but easily overcome if you wrap the A post as many times as needed to create a break angle over the nut. Not really a deal breaker for the millions upon millions of people playing Fender-style necks out there. I own around six Fenders, none of mine buzz at the nut.
 
#48
I had a setup done(on a MIM/Allparts P)by Woody Boyd, out of Sacramento- he cut the strings so that there is barely a full wrap on the post. :eek: The bass stays in tune(does NOT slip)& even tunes quicker- I know, sounds like BS, but I'm speaking from experience- I really believe it's now more responsive to tuning, if you can imagine that. I'm not going to argue what I'm convinced of or try to talk anyone into doing it this way, just telling my little story. :)
 
#51
electracoyote said:
Ha!

Well, it happens on Fender-style necks from the cheapest Affinity Squier to the most expensive Custom Shop models. It could be considered a design flaw, but easily overcome if you wrap the A post as many times as needed to create a break angle over the nut. Not really a deal breaker for the millions upon millions of people playing Fender-style necks out there. I own around six Fenders, none of mine buzz at the nut.
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I have an Affinity Jazz and have never had that problem.
 
#52
bassteban said:
I had a setup done(on a MIM/Allparts P)by Woody Boyd, out of Sacramento- he cut the strings so that there is barely a full wrap on the post. :eek: The bass stays in tune(does NOT slip)& even tunes quicker- I know, sounds like BS, but I'm speaking from experience- I really believe it's now more responsive to tuning, if you can imagine that. I'm not going to argue what I'm convinced of or try to talk anyone into doing it this way, just telling my little story. :)
Click to expand...

There is a lot of truth to this. Guitar players especially notice more tuning accuracy and stability with fewer wraps. It applies to bass as well. The reason is simple: Less string to slip, loosen, and tighten around the post. The less string wrapped around the post, the less gradual slippage incurred.
 
#55
I watched the video. With his method you are sure to have twisted strings. Don't use the tuner to wind the string on. I can tell that this guy has never replaced a string between songs or done a complete string change during a 15 minute break. Must be a noob. Pull the string tight and wrap it around the post as many times as it takes to to go slightly above the bottom of the slot in the post. Make a bend where the string is going to angle into the slot. Now REMOVE the string from the post. Put another bend about 1/4 past the first bend angled down toward the hole in the center of the post. You can do this with your fingers and it makes a nice smooth bend. Cut off the string about 3/4 of an inch beyond the second bend. Now hold the string with your pre-wound coils lined up above the post. With some slack in the string, allow the ball end to turn in the bridge until it is perfectly lined up with no twist. Now put the coiled end down over the post while inserting the cut end into the center hole in the post. Wind the tuner a few times and you're done. No twist and you didn't have to wind a tuner for ten minutes. You have time to change the string, hit the head, step outside for a smoke, stop by the bar for a drink AND make it back up on stage by the end of your break.:smug:
 
#57
All of the slack in the windings around the post is taken up when you turn the tuner. When they are tightened up give each string a little tug. Once the string is brought up to pitch there is no slippage and no re-tuning needed. Unless you travel to a new climate or someone bashes into your tuners.:)
 

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