After about 10 days I need to do this:
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... lowering it at least .5mm and learning to play with a lighter touch. Let your amp handle the volume, not your hands. It will help reduce your clank as well.
Hit the string when you fretHi, I often struggle with some clanky noises when coming from an "open" (nothing fretted yet) string to fretting a note higher up the neck (say above the 7th fret). Pushing the string from its natural position down to the frets this high up often causes a clanky noise (but also a note; a bit like when tapping I guess). Is there a way/technique to reduce this?
The action on this bass is about 3 mm. I guess lowering the action could help with this. But, what else? Is it purely training your fingers to come down gradually (yet fast), and also to get the timing between fretting and plucking more in sync?
I hope my descriptions make some sense and that you have some pointers for me!? Thanks!
I start with 2mm action and adjust from there. You’re working too hard at 3mm, IMO. Here’s a decent instructional video on technique. The are several others.I'm guessing you have a pretty heavy hand since you keep your action so high. I would suggest lowering it at least .5mm and learning to play with a lighter touch. Let your amp handle the volume, not your hands. It will help reduce your clank as well.
This is why I moved to tapewound strings on all my fretted basses over 25 years ago.
Technique. Practice with headphones and your treble up (to accentuate the clank).

This only treats the symptom and does not address its cause.Turn the treble down, or the tweeter down or off.
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If you place your finger on top of or too close to the fret the string won't have enough room to sit flat on the wood of the fingerboard...
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It is most often the cause, especially now that we have amps with extended range, strings that remain bright for months and active electronics everywhere.This only treats the symptom and does not address its cause.
In order to make the string travel over the fret you must press the string onto the fingerboard in front of the fret, not on top of it. The string must have enough downward pressure to allow it to create a strong contact with the fret. This in turn translates to a two ended string length (one being the fret, the other end is the bridge saddle). Just as the nut/saddle combo renders a set of two witness points, the fret must act as one. Improper fretting technique can cause this problem. As no one else had brought up this possibility and troubleshooting is what the thread is all about, I was offering an alternative solution. If this is not the problem, no harm done. Step one: Is the unit plugged in or batteries installed correctly? Check. No harm in ruling out the obvious and least expensive culprits first.
I hear what your saying, and yes, if there’s mids and highs railed then it will worsen the problem and/or increase its likelihood.It is most often the cause, especially now that we have amps with extended range, strings that remain bright for months and active electronics everywhere.
This issue doesn't happen on a P with flats and a damp. If you find your tone too bright, make it less bright.
In order to make the string travel over the fret you must press the string onto the fingerboard in front of the fret, not on top of it. ...
I'm trying to help out someone who is getting an unwanted clanking tone. This was done by asking if the technique used for fretting is incorrect or is choking the note and causing the problem. Trying to explain exactly where to place your fretting fingers in order to produce sound from the instrument is the intent, not an in-depth expository on the subtleties of technique. If this helps the OP solve the problem it was successful, if not it is also acceptable in that one possible cause is crossed off the list.Yes, a good positive contact with the fret is necessary. But pressing down to the fingerboard? Absolutely not. Sufficient downfore for clean tone can be created almost up to the fret crown with far less force from, and strain on, the fretting hand. In practical terms this means up to 1mm from the crown - any closer and the fingertip starts to dampen the string, which is a useful tonal option...