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How to get a neck that won't easily bow ?

A: grats on your bass, it's a beauty :)

B: the proper way to fix those issues are depending how bad the curve is:
1: level/recrown the frets
2: refret then 1
3: replain the neck(fingerboard) to straight then 2 then 1
alternative: change the neck and set up from there

Unfortunately most of the times it just does not worth the effort unless you got some really expensive or exotic instrument or You just really want to save it, cause why not.
Thanks! This is not so that's why I bought something I fell in love with. I'll sell the one I have, the next owner will decide if it's a problem or not.
 
I live in Montreal, Canada, so many drastic climate change. Very rough on the bass neck. Under those circumstances, which criterias will give me a nice piece of lutherie:
1. Multi-ply or one-piece neck ?
2. Buy one with canadian hard maple ? (In this case, avoid made in Indonesia bass ?)
3. Priorize necks with reinforced truss rod with carbon ?
My experience? Stay away from maple. Both my ('75) Fender and ('13) Warwick bend with the seasons. Choose a darker timber (wenge, ovangkol, bubinga...), or at least one laminated with a minimum of maple. Truss rods are for adjusting, not stopping the neck from bending.
 
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Some mentions of Warmoth necks here, and I will say my guitar tech (greg at the classic ax here in Nashville) says he's NEVER seen a bad Warmoth neck. Greg was one of the brigade of local techs who helped put a lot of famous and not-famous guitars and guitar players back on their two feet after the Great Flood, so 'he knows a thing or two 'cuz he's seen a thing or two'.
 
it's neck issues. ;)

Yes it is!

Roasted Maple is another stiff option.

The roasted maple neck on my RG is just as stiff as the Titanium reinforced neck on my SR.

Either is able to be down-tuned 2 whole steps & remain playable.
I even down-tuned the RG to some odd tuning that started on B on the stop string last week & it was fine. Christian Woman by Type O Negative.
 
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I'll have to wait long term to see how my current "recipe" of neck builds behaves over multiple seasons. I have (2) versions of Ric Clone builds, a painted neck through with a two piece laminate of plain-sawn rock maple, arranged so grain direction is mirror-image each side, with two 1/8" x 3/8" carbon fiber rods. That one has been strung/played for a full year+, and I have not had to touch the trussrod so far due to any seasonal movement. The second neck is also neck through, but it's a lamination of three layers flame rock maple with two thinner layers of walnut. It also has two CF rods. That one isn't finished, Science! I figure if it doesn't move inordinately in two or three years, it probably isn't going to, but..... wood is whacky stuff, ain't it? The individuality of any random piece of wood makes it nearly impossible to generalize what works best. At this point, if I had to guess, I'd say CF rods DO add to the stability at best, and do no harm at worst, seems like cheap insurance. If you want a 100% guarantee of no seasonal movement, get a Steinberger neck, if you want a very stable wood neck, get a Warmoth.
 

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