How to make moving a heavy combo amp easier for back challenged player?

[Big Hoss]

Seriously, the only thing you can't afford is to re-injure your back.

You don't have to buy everything at once.

Maybe talk to the Mrs. about splitting this year's tax return, so you can afford an ultra light rig.

Tax return? *** is that? I haven't had one since 2010. They must think I am rich or something. Sure, compared to an 18 year old student, or burger flipper, but compared to a lot of folks my age, well I am where I ought to be I guess...

I am looking at the Carvin site now, and the cabs they offer, pretty much all of them are either right at the doc imposed lift limits, or go well over them as bad, or worse than my current Crate.

The Fender Rumble Series are actually very reasonable weight wise, and I like the sound, but the cabs are heavy, except for the combos, which are well within reason...

The Aguilars linked above are GREAT for weight, but the price is out of reach for me for way too long... And when I mean out of my range, I mean a single cab by itself is priced above what I want to lay out for everything.

The Ampeg MicroVR head / 210 cab is almost a viable option well within my price range. I would want to play through one before choosing though.. Due to problems folks have had with post LOUD takeover Ampegs, I would have to buy this locally to insure I have support from a local shop before laying down the cash for one...

 

[FFTT]

I would hang in there till you can afford the right rig.

Getting hurt again, could be much more costly.

 

[Wasnex]

Not sold on a separate cab / head setup mostly due to lack of familiarity with them...

The only difference in operation between separates and a combo is you have to connect the speaker to the amp. Generally separates will be a bit higher in cost, but you get the benefit of splitting the weight. Probably not a big deal if you get a combo with a light weight class-d amp, but separates would make a big difference if you go with used gear in which the cab weighs 30-40 lbs and the head weighs 15-25 lbs or more. Buying separates gives you the option to buy a wider variety of rigs that you can lift safely...Keep in mind many of the best sounding light weight amps are not available in combo form.

 

[mattgreven]

Dave, you might also want to consider something like the Markbass CMD102P combo. Plenty of output, you can always add another cabinet to it. It's only 44# to boot! Shameless plug, I'm selling one on here, I'm just not playing enough to justify keeping it. Here's a link to the post: http://www.talkbass.com/threads/markbass-cmd-102p-price-drop.1120652/ I'd been using a single 15" combo that was pretty heavy, the MB combo makes life a LOT easier, and it's nice knowing that if I need more output I can always augment with an external 2x10, 1x12, etc.
Good luck with the search!

 

[SanDiegoHarry]

67lb "behemoth"? Man, try schlepping my epifani 4x10 - yikes!

Don't get me wrong - I feel ya. That's why I spend the $$ on a pair of berg CN112s - 26lbs and switched to a class D amp (Genz Shuttle 6.2). Small gig rig now weighs right at about 30lbs - a one-hand schlep. Spendy - but worth it on my back.

If you're stuck with your gear, a cart is about all you can do. Just get a cart.

 

[archtop2]

In Markbass family I dig the mini CMD 121p.

One 12" speaker , ultralight 29lbs, plenty of output 500w with an external cab for overall 4 ohm, 300w alone, I held one in a store couldńt believe how light it is compared with previous generation I own.
With an additional NY121 speaker you get one of the best max power/weight combination all around.
500w 2x12 57.5lbs

 

[Big Hoss]

I would hang in there till you can afford the right rig.

Getting hurt again, could be much more costly.

Which is why I am trying to figure this out... How do I move the current amp when I need to while saving up enough to purchase an appropriate replacement.

I am seeing a LOT of good suggestions here, and I know folks mean well, but I must admit it seems folks are a bit quick to recommend amps that cost more than my first 3 cars, combined. The likelihood of me being able to come up with that kind of extra scratch without diving into savings, or doing something irresponsible like cutting into retirement funds, is pretty slim... I know some are better than others, but let's face a painful fact, if I can't afford to buy it, whatever "it" is, does me no good. And I AM married, an extra 2 grand laying around not in a retirement account or something like that is likely to get reallocated for me...

Now mind you, if I got MUCH better with my playing, and was making $$ in a band or something like that, I could justify the cost as a business expense. But for the forseeable future it is a liability to me, not an asset.

The tinkerer in me I must admit is SCREAMING study up on cabinet design and the various Neo speakers, and build a pair lightweight of maple 2x10 cabs, and pick up a good 500 watt head to drive them... Heck, I bet nobody has done dovetailed box walnut ply bass cabs... That would be pretty cool!

 

[themarshall]

Good point...

FWIW, the tailgate top in the lowered position is at 34" and I have a standard 6.5 foot bed truck.

I thought about using 1/4" ply and 18" tempered hardboard lamination (I can do that myself... the hard part is pressing it but I can rig that...) I figured 3/8" cabinet grade (400 grit sanded) ply should suffice... Maybe oiled & waxed...

Yeah I would have to figure out the attachment to the gate for sure!

I don't know if they are still available, but skateboard rails screwed to the back of the combo could provide the "slide" or slip with only a few ounces extra weight.
And a 6.5' box is short; 8' is standard

Edit: Yep they still make rails - the kind you attach to your deck, not the kind you grind, slide, etc on. Oh, and it looks like speaker hardware sells the same thing as a cabinet slider.

 

[Big Hoss]

I don't know if they are still available, but skateboard rails screwed to the back of the combo could provide the "slide" or slip with only a few ounces extra weight.
And a 6.5' box is short; 8' is standard

Edit: Yep they still make rails - the kind you attach to your deck, not the kind you grind, slide, etc on. Oh, and it looks like speaker hardware sells the same thing as a cabinet slider.

FWIW, the 8' box being standard is the old standard. For modern half tons anyway, 5.5' is short, 6.5' is standard, 8' is long box...

The old scale applies to 3/4 ton and above, 6' short box, 8' standard, and 10' long...

I drove a long box F350 Crew Cab hauling a bunch of crap for a friend that couldn't drive last year (medical issue of his own), and that thing was just beastly to manuver, Thank goodness 99% of the time we were on the interstate!

I hadn't given skateboard rails much thought, funny thing is, I still have my old skate from my high school days... I work with degreed professionals that are younger than the bushings on those trucks! I will never step foot on it again but I refuse to get rid of it for sentimentality reasons... I literally would ride across town with a borrowed bass to get to class with that board. Talk about tricky!

So far, the best short term idea I have seen is adding casters to the top of the hand truck, and strapping the amp to the hand truck, and just rolling that sucker up. That would allow me to handle the weight with my legs, and keep me clear of using my back to lift for the most part. However the handle might get in the way of casters. Another option that would allow easy movement over the bed of the truck once rotation has begun is to treat the surfaces that would come in contact with the truck in UHMW Polyethylene tape, the stuff is super slick on the exposed side, and would allow the handle surface to easily slide across the ribs of the truck bed without damaging it, the truck, or the amp. Again the biggest issue is to insure the amp is secure to the hand truck..

Once the amp / hand truck are fully up in the bed of the truck, it can be stood back up, and ratchet strapped in so it can't move, I have movers blankets so damage to the truck and / or the amp can be avoided.

Some hand trucks actually are convertible dollies as well. With those extra casters already there, a bit heavier duty, the hand truck I have while USA made is still kind of flimsy. It is rated at 500lbs, and I used it to try to move a stack of boxes of books that must have exceeded that limit because the base plate bent. I got it bent back, but I am now NOT allergic to the idea of replacing this one... It's just not a big priority is all...

 

[themarshall]

Yeah, I agree 6.5 has become the new standard, I'm just curmudgeonly about it When we decided we needed a "new" (beater) at work a few years ago, we knew we needed an 8' box. Extended + cab was briefly considered - until we drove one. For the handful of times we need to be off the property with more people than will fit in a standard cab per year, it's easier just to take 2 vehicles.

 

[Big Hoss]

Yeah, I agree 6.5 has become the new standard, I'm just curmudgeonly about it When we decided we needed a "new" (beater) at work a few years ago, we knew we needed an 8' box. Extended + cab was briefly considered - until we drove one. For the handful of times we need to be off the property with more people than will fit in a standard cab per year, it's easier just to take 2 vehicles.

LOL... Funny thing is, I haul, quite frequently 4x8 sheet goods with the tailgate down and extender deployed with my truck... I have a Super Cab, and honestly, have little need for the 8' box, I rarely need to haul more than the truck can handle, basically if the 6.5' bed is full, chances are the springs are at their limit anyway. I think that is why they standardized on 6.5 foot boxes for half tons...

 

[Pilgrim]

Dave, I thought about just mounting a pair of wheels on the back side of the amp, down low....so that when you tip it back, the wheels some in contact with the ground and you have your own hand-truck built in.

It wouldn't hurt to add locking 90-degree handles on the sides of the cab.

For that matter, I had a Peavey 15" cab and must mounted stout wheels under it. 1" x #10 screws will mount swiveling feet. Get help lifting it in and out.

But the better solution long term is a micro head and a pair of neo cabs that you can separate so you can break the load into pieces.

 

[macmanlou]

Oh, I don't know...maybe these folks:

26 lbs. each!

This ^^^ (SVT210AV). The vertical stack option is really good for hearing yourself on stage, too.

 

[PortlandBass77]

What is the resale value of the amp? If reasonable although you say you don't want to tell it will offset the cost of a micro pus neo. If the resale value is low and you are somewhat handy what you could do is take the amo out of the cab and built a sleeve for it. It's then in two lighter parts and would probably shave the heaviest component down to under 50lbs that is the limit your doctor has imposed.

I got mine for $40, and I've seen a second one for the same. So probably $80 max.

 

[Downunderwonder]

Going from a combo to a head / cab rig is admittedly going to be a big psychological jump to me... But let's say for a second I am REALLY digging the Rumble V3 500 combo tone. What's the best way to go about getting that in a head / cab configuration?

I am figuring a Rumble 500 head, at 5 lbs, and a Rumble 4x10 cab at 62lbs? That puts me back at the weight problem...

The Rumble 115 cab weighs in at 38 lbs, which is more than the Rumble 500 2x10 combo....

So let's say for example I liked that sound, but wanted smaller slices of easy to move weight... I really doubt I will ever need more than a 4x10 rig, most likely 2x10... But who knows right?

So maybe a head and a couple of 2x10 cabs? Who would make light, but great sounding cabs that I can try out?

Less drama if you simply make your combo into head plus cab for two relatively light pieces. Cost, 1 JACK, 1 1/4" plug.

 

[Big Hoss]

I got mine for $40, and I've seen a second one for the same. So probably $80 max.

Ugh... Yeah I guess that puts this thing into the take it to the jam space and leave it there category...

 

[FFTT]

Mahogany is light & strong and works well with dove tail joints.

I have a 2X12 built out of Vermont Cherry that is 25 pounds empty, just for reference.

If you use hardwood, no need to cover with Tolex.
Finish with Danish Oil and any scuffs can easily be touched up with a perfect match.

Only you can decide what's its worth to you to Not hurt yourself.

Which is why I am trying to figure this out... How do I move the current amp when I need to while saving up enough to purchase an appropriate replacement.

I am seeing a LOT of good suggestions here, and I know folks mean well, but I must admit it seems folks are a bit quick to recommend amps that cost more than my first 3 cars, combined. The likelihood of me being able to come up with that kind of extra scratch without diving into savings, or doing something irresponsible like cutting into retirement funds, is pretty slim... I know some are better than others, but let's face a painful fact, if I can't afford to buy it, whatever "it" is, does me no good. And I AM married, an extra 2 grand laying around not in a retirement account or something like that is likely to get reallocated for me...

Now mind you, if I got MUCH better with my playing, and was making $$ in a band or something like that, I could justify the cost as a business expense. But for the forseeable future it is a liability to me, not an asset.

The tinkerer in me I must admit is SCREAMING study up on cabinet design and the various Neo speakers, and build a pair lightweight of maple 2x10 cabs, and pick up a good 500 watt head to drive them... Heck, I bet nobody has done dovetailed box walnut ply bass cabs... That would be pretty cool!

 

[BASS4TOS]

I

Boy did I get sidetracked with my GAS post. I should have known better...

Yes I want a lighter, more powerful amp without a doubt, but let's face it, if I had the cash for it now, it's not like my wife is going to tell me no. I mean really I coughed out for a $150.00 hair dryer and I don't even want to know how much the flattening iron she had me buy her cost... But the budget just doesn't have the room until well into the new year (Probably by the time Uncle Sam gets appeased in April...)

Until then, I am dragging my amp around more and more. Which with my back problems is getting to be a BIG problem... As you may recall from previous threads, I have had back problems since a major car wreck going on 14 years ago. It flares up from time to time and is seriously NO FUN...

So here's my situation. My current amp is a Crate BX-100. I know there's not a ton of love for these amps, but with my level of playing, it's ideal tone and loud wise... Last weekend's jam session I was playing on the E string a lot, and I could FEEL the air shaking around us, it got things moving enough we cracked one of the window panes in my buddies garage / jam room. (Good thing it's a cheap window!) So maybe for a LOUD bar this thing would be worse than useless, and honestly, it would SUCK for a loud metal band, but I don't do that stuff. I play some classic rock, some blues, some Praise music that kind of thing... and it works. Until I go to move it...

I have a small hand truck, and ratchet straps. So rolling it out of my home jam room, out to the drive, and then from the jam friend's drive to their jam room is no problem.

Picking that 67lb behemoth with only one handle smack in the middle of the top, and lifting it into the bed of my 4" lifted F150 4x4 without killing myself however, is a bit of a challenge...

I was hoping for maybe some pointers / ideas on maybe some sort of handles, or lifting assist device that I could use to make this job less, well hazardous...

My intent with this amp is to keep it even after getting whatever light weight / powerful / tone I like amp (Still leaning toward the Fender Rumble 500 with maybe a 1x15 extension cab...). If the jam gig gets to be a regular thing, I will simply house my Crate amp over there on a semi permanent basis. But for now... I have GOT to make this thing easier to lift, and lower down.

I am not adverse to building say plywood and 2x4 ramps if that is feasable, and understand it's not just the amps that are heavy here... I am also not adverse to cutting / drilling into the Crate Cab to install say casters and / or decent handles assuming I can be completely sure they won't pull out...

What have other folks done in situations like this while pinching the budget a bit?

I use a Gallien Kruger 2-12 combo with those really light speakers and class D amplification. The enclosure is all sealed and it's plastic too. Now, I know what you old schoolers are thinking and I was of the same mindset , but the tone quality and headroom are both awesome, and it only weighs 37 lbs, I use that amp for most gigs but sometimes I need the Mesa Boogie, and for that I use a portable fold up dolley.
Then you might just use free beer to bribe one of your band mates. The GK will set you back a few six packs otherwise.

 

[Big Hoss]

Mahogany is a big tough to source up around these parts. Not impossible though...

Native woods by me are Pin oak, White Oak, Pecan, Mesquite, Cedar. I can get most of the common north american hardwoods for reasonable prices, it's when we come to exotics / imports that things get spendy...

I'd have to take some measurements and get bd/ft pricing, but Mahogany isn't exactly a cheap project wood. When I have used it in the past, it has been about 50% higher cost than say Black Walnut which runs about $5.00 bd/ft for 4/4, so I would think Mahogany would run about $7.50 bd/ft. A VERY rough guesstimate of the lumber needed would be approximately 20 bd/ft, that would put me at $150.00 in materials not counting glue and biscuits to actually get the depth I need since I can't handle flattening 15" wide lumber I would have to join narrower boards to make the panel (unless I want to flatten them with hand planes, that is time consuming...)

Weight calculators show 20 bd / ft of kiln dried honduran mahogany 1/2" thick would weight 28.3 lbs.
Similar American Black Walnut would run 31.6 lbs...
Similar Silver Leaf Maple would run 25.38 lbs.

Any good reason accoustically not to use silver maple?

 

[Big Hoss]

I

I use a Gallien Kruger 2-12 combo with those really light speakers and class D amplification. The enclosure is all sealed and it's plastic too. Now, I know what you old schoolers are thinking and I was of the same mindset , but the tone quality and headroom are both awesome, and it only weighs 37 lbs, I use that amp for most gigs but sometimes I need the Mesa Boogie, and for that I use a portable fold up dolley.
Then you might just use free beer to bribe one of your band mates. The GK will set you back a few six packs otherwise.

LOL... I love it! The biggest issue has been getting into and out of the truck at the house... My wife isn't very helpful loading stuff up...