Same process, $400 more
Which is what I sold my Eden WT-300v and opted for a Mesa WD-800.
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Same process, $400 more
What's so terrible about changing the power tubes? One set won't bias properly no more (bias led won't go green no more), so I'm guessing it needs replacing some time soon. Supposedly the tubes are about ten years old or something. Don't see what's so hard about it, but I'd love to hear any info on it!
One set won't bias properly no more (bias led won't go green no more),
The difference is in your head.
Over $500 for tungsolsCost?? $400?? For the tubes plus other associated maintenance issues. Setting bias, inspecting resistors, and other electrical components. You don't want to have anything else that might fail crash a $400 dollars worth of tubes.
Over $500 for tungsols
The three ax7 tungsols for the pre amp are 80.
Bout the same for the two au7 drivers.
Total of $700 to go Russian in an SVT.
But, that's really not bad. Seeing as how amps today have a hard time making it half the standard tube life, don't sound as good, and cost more than the 500 for a full set of power tubes. You really only save weight. Not money.
oops, I meant 12ax7, I fixed it in the post too12vx7 you mean?
yep, amp sounds boring hopefully this will fix it. How do I do it? 4 12ax7, tungsol. thanks.
Could be I just have "bad one." Hope not. Had one before and I played it through the same cab's as now. I just can't get an "grrrrrrit" from it. It just sounds boring. It doesn't do that SVT mid range thing at all. I was told that is the preamp tubes. The other tubes, the power tubes, they bias. So I was told if you get a "green" bias light, then they're okThis could mean you have one or more dead 6550s on that side of the amp.
The tubes are organized into two triplets. Each triplet has a bias adjust and bias indicator.
For the indicator circuit in a CL to show green, all three tubes must pull at least 15mA. If any one tube in the circuit pulls more than 30mA, you get red.
So the circuit does not expect very tight matching. As long as all three tubes in a circuit are between 15mA and 30mA you get green.
If a tube in a circuit is dead or has super low emissions, you get red before green. I.E. one tube pulls more than 30mA before all three pull more than 15mA.
If a fresh trio of tubes does not fix the problem, the bias indicator circuit maybe ganked or there may be a problem in one of the individual tube circuits. The screen resistors on SVTs are designed to act as fuses. So if an output tube goes bad it will sometimes blow the screen resistor. This is to protect the amp from more serious damage.
The bias for the 6550s flows through the driver tubes. So a weak driver tube could cause the problem as well. If you replace the driver tubes, I suggest adjusting the bias for minimum tube current in the 6550s before pulling the old drivers out. If you put a strong driver in without doing this, it may pull the bias down causing the 6550s to pull too much current.
Could be I just have "bad one." Hope not. Had one before and I played it through the same cab's as now. I just can't get an "grrrrrrit" from it. It just sounds boring. It doesn't do that SVT mid range thing at all. I was told that is the preamp tubes. The other tubes, the power tubes, they bias. So I was told if you get a "green" bias light, then they're ok@justbass4
A different cab will make a lot more difference than changing out the preamp tubes.
Tung Sol 12AX7 will probably be slightly brighter than the stock tubes. I have not rolled the tube in an SVT, but I have rolled it in some other amps. If you like gank and fret rattle, this could be a good choice as the tube seems to be really hard and punchy in the high-mids.
A lot of people don't hear enough difference to justify the hassle of rolling tubes (I am not one of them). The results vary from circuit to circuit and range from slight to imperceivable, but sometimes a subtle change can be really nice IMHO.
As has been mentioned, rolling tubes carries some degree of risk, especially if you have not done it before. Don't use too much force and make sure the pins line up with the tube socket during installation.
Could be I just have "bad one." Hope not. Had one before and I played it through the same cab's as now. I just can't get an "grrrrrrit" from it. It just sounds boring. It doesn't do that SVT mid range thing at all. I was told that is the preamp tubes. The other tubes, the power tubes, they bias. So I was told if you get a "green" bias light, then they're ok
Does it say anything about biasing?I have the same amp, the manual covers it. Basically, unplug, unscrew, replace and reverse order of action. I don't think it's very hard, I might give it a try over the holidays. Power tubes need replacing anyways.
This is my personal opinion, but if you have a CL, you DO have a bad one. I build amps, fix amps, and examining the circuit it's a FrankenSVT compared to the original. I played one in a provided backline and it sounded like dogshht compared to the '69 I used to have. When the CL was developed, it was built around tubes in production. 6C4's? 12BH7's? 12DW7s? Unobtanium. A 6C4 is half of a 12AU7. A 12DW7 is half a 12AX7 and half a 12AU7. Do the arithmetic, the preamp would have to have 2 12AU7s and 1 1/2 12AX7s with the other half unused (ignoring the second channel) to use the same circuit. The CL uses 2 tubes. It uses 12AU7s as drivers instead of the beefier 12BH7s to push the 6550s. It's an SVT in name only. Dump it and get a used original from the 70's (the '69 needed a modification to keep from eating power tubes like candy) if you're looking for that Ampeg grit. There are pedals that do the SVT grind better than the CL does.Could be I just have "bad one." Hope not. Had one before and I played it through the same cab's as now. I just can't get an "grrrrrrit" from it. It just sounds boring. It doesn't do that SVT mid range thing at all. I was told that is the preamp tubes. The other tubes, the power tubes, they bias. So I was told if you get a "green" bias light, then they're ok