How To Slot The Crimp?

[MochaFiend]

I got a new set of strings that, for the first time, don't have silk wrapping on the headstocks end. The new strings are round core, and the manufacturer suggests making an intentional severe crimp in the string before cutting it to prevent the core from slipping through the windings and causing issues.

Once I crimp the string and have the crimped end in hand, how do I actually slot it in the tuning post? Ordinarily I would drop the straight end into the center hole of the post and make a 90 degree bend, but with the crimp I won't be able to use the post's center hole. Or is the 90 degree bend itself sufficient to prevent the core from slipping and I don't fuss with a more severe crimp?

This must seem like a silly question but I've never used round core strings before and this is a puzzle I was not anticipating. I already miss the LaBella string ends I'm used to.

Thanks in advance. I tried to search before posting but I wasn't able to word my search so that the results were relevant.

 

[GrowlerBox]

Or is the 90 degree bend itself sufficient to prevent the core from slipping and I don't fuss with a more severe crimp?

I’ve never had a round core string (TIJFs, mostly) slip with a 90 degree bend. I just put another set on two days ago, and again, no problem. I don’t think the silk or absence thereof is relevant.

Good luck .

 

[One Way]

I measure the correct string length and with pliers create a 90 degree bend toward the tuner string hole. Then I cut the string slightly less than one inch from the bend and insert the string into the tuning peg. I use this process with all bass strings, both hex and round core, and have never had an issue with windings slipping.

 

[Zooberwerx]

I measure 3.5" / 4 fingers (...or one "Zoober") past the E string machine head, crimp at a 90 deg angle. and then trim down ~10-12 mm. Null & void when installing Cobalt Flats.

Each subsequent measurement / cut can increase as the string diameter decreases.

Riis

 

[gonzkal]

Not a silly question at all IMO. I too faced this issue the first time I installed round core strings some years ago, notably after watching Fodera's (otherwise great) setup videos on YouTube. Now, I crimp with pliers and then cut just after the sharp angle, it still fits in the tuning post center hole with small diameter strings but I always struggle with my low B (typically 0.125) unless tapered. Happy to read how others do it.

 

[31HZ]

I got a new set of strings that, for the first time, don't have silk wrapping on the headstocks end. The new strings are round core, and the manufacturer suggests making an intentional severe crimp in the string before cutting it to prevent the core from slipping through the windings and causing issues.

Once I crimp the string and have the crimped end in hand, how do I actually slot it in the tuning post? Ordinarily I would drop the straight end into the center hole of the post and make a 90 degree bend, but with the crimp I won't be able to use the post's center hole. Or is the 90 degree bend itself sufficient to prevent the core from slipping and I don't fuss with a more severe crimp?

This must seem like a silly question but I've never used round core strings before and this is a puzzle I was not anticipating. I already miss the LaBella string ends I'm used to.

Thanks in advance. I tried to search before posting but I wasn't able to word my search so that the results were relevant.

I always cut first, and then double-crimp: one bend to go down into the center hole, and another about a quarter-inch away to change direction as it starts the wrap around the post. Never a problem (and I only use the string brand that you are referring to).

 

[FullumMusic]

When i had strings like that i put the end in the tuning peg hole and figured out how long it is from the end of the string to where the string would kink around the tuning peg slot.

Then i figured out where i wanted to cut the length, and put the "severe crimp" that distance away from the cut-point (towards the ball-end). Then i cut. That way the kink is where the string would be kinking out of the peg slot anyway (or close enough.)

I don't know if that's the right or best way.

 

[tpaul]

Your slottage may suffer from too much crimpitude.

 

[howdydoody13]

LOL, your kidding…right?

 

[GrowlerBox]

LOL, your kidding…right?

How dare you? Crimpitude is no laughing matter, and slottage is particularly susceptible to its depredations. @tpaul should be congratulated for raising such an important and yet taboo subject.

 

[JamesGrant]

Wot I do.
Use pliers to crimp. Then cut, then bend a ‘sharp’ 90deg. The crimp is between the 90deg bend and end of the string. String in hole, aim for 1 1/2 to two wraps min. Wind so the string is being drawn progressively closer to the headstock (ie; maximum break angle) . Don’t overlap.
Never had a problem with this approach.
Good luck.

 

[tpaul]

How dare you? Crimpitude is no laughing matter, and slottage is particularly susceptible to its depredations. @tpaul should be congratulated for raising such an important and yet taboo subject.

Thank you. I feel seen.

 

[howdydoody13]

How dare you? Crimpitude is no laughing matter, and slottage is particularly susceptible to its depredations. @tpaul should be congratulated for raising such an important and yet taboo subject.

Awww…that’s cute

 

[FightMilk]

Bend it all way back on itself, I don’t think 90 degrees is enough. Cut in the middle of the U or J lol. Jam it down the hole in the tuner. If it doesn’t fit, trim a little more off the U. The lock of the inner core has already happened.

 

[turf3]

Why can't you just run the string through the post in its initial straight condition, bring it up close to pitch, then make the sharp bend on the free end and cut off past the bend?