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How to solder a 2 way passive crossover?

Did you order it already? I believe the PXB2:800 is a safer fit for this cabinet since the up slope is only 18db (which is good and all, but I'd want to use 24db on a low crossover like the 500) on those xovers. Just this man's opinion but I'd roll with the 800.

There are four solder points on the boards - W+ W- T+ T-. T+/- go to the mid, and W+/- to the woofer.
 
Did you order it already? I believe the PXB2:800 is a safer fit for this cabinet since the up slope is only 18db (which is good and all, but I'd want to use 24db on a low crossover like the 500) on those xovers. Just this man's opinion but I'd roll with the 800.

That reason is not even a concern unless you are using a cheaper midrange driver and way too much power. Either will do, but the lower crossover will come closer to gettting rid of that atrocious 1000+ Hz hump the 3015LF puts out.

Another orphan fEarful thread here? ; }
 
Did you order it already? I believe the PXB2:800 is a safer fit for this cabinet since the up slope is only 18db (which is good and all, but I'd want to use 24db on a low crossover like the 500) on those xovers. Just this man's opinion but I'd roll with the 800.

There are four solder points on the boards - W+ W- T+ T-. T+/- go to the mid, and W+/- to the woofer.


thanks rpsands. No I didnt order it yet but I am glad you cleared that up for me. That makes sense. W=woofer, T=tweeter or in this case midrange speaker.
one more question though(even if it is stupid)
Does the crossover just split the frequencies off between the two speakers so one handles above(midrange) 800hz and the other one handles below(woofer) 800hz?
sorry about the noobiness.:bawl:
 
Yeah the crossover splits the frequencies. If Greenboy says a 500hz is safe to use, it is.

That said if 500hz is safe, I would buy the Peavey ECX prebuilt crossover in the fEarful thread. It will be a lot easier to use and not that pricey when it comes down to it (since it includes jack, jack plate, and a lot of the labor involved in wiring/connecting).
 
That reason is not even a concern unless you are using a cheaper midrange driver and way too much power. Either will do, but the lower crossover will come closer to gettting rid of that atrocious 1000+ Hz hump the 3015LF puts out.

Another orphan fEarful thread here? ; }


LOL maybe:rolleyes:
yeah greenboy you designed it. So I will go with the pxb2:500 then. Only because the man himself says so. lol:smug:
 
Yeah the crossover splits the frequencies. If Greenboy says a 500hz is safe to use, it is.

That said if 500hz is safe, I would buy the Peavey ECX prebuilt crossover in the fEarful thread. It will be a lot easier to use and not that pricey when it comes down to it (since it includes jack, jack plate, and a lot of the labor involved in wiring/connecting).

ill take that into all my calculations when it comes to pricing everything. thanks, you and greenboy are awesome!
 
Yeah the crossover splits the frequencies. If Greenboy says a 500hz is safe to use, it is.

That said if 500hz is safe, I would buy the Peavey ECX prebuilt crossover in the fEarful thread. It will be a lot easier to use and not that pricey when it comes down to it (since it includes jack, jack plate, and a lot of the labor involved in wiring/connecting).

plus i could add a tweeter later on if i wanted to;)

ill take that into all my calculations when it comes to pricing everything. thanks, you and greenboy are awesome!
 
If you use a three-way crossover and don't have the tweeter hooked up, you will hear less high end because the midrange driver will be low-passed. Also the crossover doesn't like not having a load connected to each section. Not good.

Woops, you are definitely right :) The ECS doesn't offer a mid-only option, it's band-pass only for the mids.

You might be better off with the eminence also as it's 18db up on the mids.
 
If you use a three-way crossover and don't have the tweeter hooked up, you will hear less high end because the midrange driver will be low-passed. Also the crossover doesn't like not having a load connected to each section. Not good.

damn always got to show up rspands huh?:eyebrow: lol. alright i will factor that in. and just get the pxb2:500. I don't really like the tweeters to much anyways.
 
I can tell you from experience without a tweeter you'll most likely be happy. My no-tweeter fEarful-style cab does just fine.

... and I certainly don't feel offended at being corrected :) I thought the ECS-3X had a mid option that wasn't bandpassed for some reason, no idea why I thought that.
 
You might be better off with the eminence also as it's 18db up on the mids.

You are just guessing again ; } ...that's not an issue either. Passive crossover FREQUENCY descriptions are very loose indeed, often the electrical point is higher than the number that describes its intent acoustically. And according to Peavey that crossover is designed around -6dB instead of classical Butterworth -3dB so there's more safety yet. But most of these midrange drivers can deal with 2nd order slopes pretty nicely until the power gets really big.
 
You are just guessing again ; } ...that's not an issue either. Passive crossover FREQUENCY descriptions are very loose indeed, often the electrical point is higher than the number that describes its intent acoustically. And according to Peavey that crossover is designed around -6dB instead of classical Butterworth -3dB so there's more safety yet. But most of these midrange drivers can deal with 2nd order slopes pretty nicely until the power gets really big.

Just gonna cut my losses on this one :)

If it were me, I would call up LDS and ask him to sell me the crossover Ralf did based on Passinwind's or see if Passinwind'd wire me one up.
 
Jeexux, Passinwind did all the real work ; } - you should be able to put one together easy with his parts list, photos, and schematic, rp!

Partly what's good about Passinwind's design is that Alex Claber, me, and Passinwind all independently found the region it crosses over at to be of maxiumum advantage for most small-format midrange cones and with those humpy woofers. We were almost surprised we were all looking at it basically that way - but not quite ; }
 
These xovers are all designed for 8 ohm woofer sections so I think that would be risky.

You'd probably need to use different stuff for the low pass section I believe.

There might be something in the fEarful threads though.
 
You either need to design one (I don't know why everybody thinks that's a big deal - it is DIY after all). Between present examples and online calcs you can do good enough for R&R. It need not be complex, just basic, to work well in this MI situation.

Conversely, add a second low-pass-only section to the second woofer, using a full crossover on first woofer and midrange cone. An example would be Eminence's low-pass-only pxb:500 inconjunction with the two-way pxb2:500.

I just continue to biamp, which not only meets almost any scenario, but keeps distortion low when mass power is being used, and gets all those nasty little impedance gremlins out of the picture ; }
 
You either need to design one (I don't know why everybody thinks that's a big deal - it is DIY after all). Between present examples and online calcs you can do good enough for R&R. It need not be complex, just basic, to work well in this MI situation.

Conversely, add a second low-pass-only section to the second woofer, using a full crossover on first woofer and midrange cone. An example would be Eminence's low-pass-only pxb:500 inconjunction with the two-way pxb2:500.

I just continue to biamp, which not only meets almost any scenario, but keeps distortion low when mass power is being used, and gets all those nasty little impedance gremlins out of the picture ; }

dude you need to start a cabinet making company ill work for you just for the knowledge:D

Now if you google "solder passive crossover" you find this forum. so now when other dummies google how to solder a crossover they will actually find something that actually tells you something about it.
 
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