I have a problem (?) with string length. Help?

[Isaac_James]

I've put some DR Low Riders on my Ibanez Soundgear. These have a stated winding length of 38", which is just below the tuner post of the E string.

Here's what this looks like on the bass. As you can see, the taper does start at the 38" point - but what I failed to account for is that the taper on a DR E string is rather long, so the first inch and a quarter or so beyond that 38" point is still pretty thick. The string only starts to get to its thinnest at 39.25", making part of the first wrap nearly as thick as the full E string.

I'm uncertain of whether this is actually a problem. For now, it sounds good to me. I've used these strings on another bass without issue and I suspect there are a lot of basses that don't have over 39" between the end of the bridge and the E string tuner post.

If it is a problem though, I'd love some suggestions for similar sounding options with a shorter winding length. A brief search suggests that either D'Addario Pro Steels or Dunlop Super Brights would fit the bill with a 37.25" winding length.

Criteria:

-round wound
-stainless steel
-preferably hex core
-winding length between 36" and 38"
-available in light gauge, the DRs are 40-100 and I would like to keep it in that ballpark.

 

[Killing Floor]

That’s only a problem on TalkBass. And it’s only a problem of you think it is. And if you stray beyond these walls you’ll probably find that more than you can imagine.

 

[mmbongo]

This is where stringing through body is an advantage, if possible.

 

[Isaac_James]

This is where stringing through body is an advantage, if possible.

It isn't on this particular bass. Good idea though.

 

[Riff Ranger]

Jason Mendelssohn at fretnation dot com is really helpful with this kind of stuff.

 

[Riff Ranger]

It isn't on this particular bass. Good idea though.

It could be

 

[Riff Ranger]

That’s only a problem on TalkBass. And it’s only a problem of you think it is. And if you stray beyond these walls you’ll probably find that more than you can imagine.

I’ve done it and never experienced any of the issues I’ve heard it can cause (breakage, tuning and intonation issues), but it always bugged me visually. I know a dude who manually unwinds the headstock ends of his favorite guitar strings to avoid this and can put you in touch if you want to go that route.

 

[Isaac_James]

I’ve done it and never experienced any of the issues I’ve heard it can cause (breakage, tuning and intonation issues), but it always bugged me visually. I know a dude who manually unwinds the headstock ends of his favorite guitar strings to avoid this and can put you in touch if you want to go that route.

Yeah, to be clear if it isn't a problem (and I'm leaning towards it not being one, just doing due diligence here) then I'm ok keeping it as is. I'm mainly concerned about the possibility of breakage, these are small tuner posts so the strings are wound around them in a tighter circle than they would be on my other basses. I've made a few setup tweaks and I am waiting for everything to settle in before I worry about setting up the intonation.

I may give D'Addario a shot anyway, I've accrued some Player's Circle points by mailing them my used strings so I can probably get a free set by cashing those in. I haven't loved their strings in the past but free is free and I figure it's worth giving them a chance.

 

[michael_t]

The first taper (end of full winding) is what really matters when it comes to winding length. I wouldn't worry about the second taper being somewhere on the post.

 

[Killing Floor]

After 4 decades playing and time on the road as a pro I should know better. I just grabbed the wrong package out of my string bin and didn’t notice until I made the first cut. This is what they look like after 3 years:

 

[Isaac_James]

Jason Mendelssohn at fretnation dot com is really helpful with this kind of stuff.

I'm sure I've mentioned this on the BB Club page, but Jason is the one who clued me in to Ken Smith Compressors being a good alternative to GHS Pressurewounds for my five string, the same thing (nearly so anyway) except with a tapered B. I certainly appreciate him and his knowledge.

 

[Five or Six]

It will be fine!

 

[Yahboy]

Yah, it will be fine on your SR 4 string bass. (MIK SR700 Amber ?)

I been use DR Hibeam on my old MIK SR705 and Cort Action DLX V.

Since both bass's headstock tuning machines placement are 3+2 instead 2+3 (SR premium or prestige or SRFF805). The B tuning machine placement pretty close to nut . The huge winding end of DR 125B string possible get snap/break on their small tuning post if you loose/tighten too many time on intonation setup or swap in/swap out frequency.

 

[J Wilson]

On E's and B's (sometimes others depending on the brand) you often see those layers of windings in steps like your picture as you get to the very end of the string around the tuning keys.

In my experience, as long as those tapers are on the tuning key side of the nut (in other words you have the full size from the bridge saddles to the nut), you're fine.

On the other end at the bridge, occasionally there's problems with 'open core' or what we used to call piano wound strings where the length exposed and where the full diameter crossed the bridge saddles were a mismatch.

 

[Isaac_James]

Yah, it will be fine on your SR 4 string bass. (MIK SR700 Amber ?)

Close - MIJ SR800 Amber with an ash body (most of these used basswood, but that doesn't look as good with a natural finish).

Until recently this bass had the stock pickups and preamp, but I didn't like the way they sounded so I took it all out and redid the electronics to be fully passive. Now it's got Wilde P46 and J45 pickups, 500k pots, a series/parallel switch, and a .047 tone capacitor. This thing roars now in a way I could never get it to do with the stock electronics.

 

[Isaac_James]

After 4 decades playing and time on the road as a pro I should know better. I just grabbed the wrong package out of my string bin and didn’t notice until I made the first cut. This is what they look like after 3 years:
View attachment 5088318

I love that headstock, by the way. I'd never heard of Duesenberg but I Iooked some up and they're neat looking basses. Cool retro aesthetic.

Are those labella flats? I've got some on a different bass but the silk is a darker shade of red.

 

[Yahboy]

Close - MIJ SR800 Amber with an ash body (most of these used basswood, but that doesn't look as good with a natural finish).

Until recently this bass had the stock pickups and preamp, but I didn't like the way they sounded so I took it all out and redid the electronics to be fully passive. Now it's got Wilde P46 and J45 pickups, 500k pots, a series/parallel switch, and a .047 tone capacitor. This thing roars now in a way I could never get it to do with the stock electronics.

View attachment 5088354

Great piece and great electronic upgrade.
I do believe your MIJ SR800 has better build than MIK SR700 too. My MIK SR705 sound just meh until i install Bart P2 Soapar and NTMB 3 band EQ.

 

[Killing Floor]

I love that headstock, by the way. I'd never heard of Duesenberg but I Iooked some up and they're neat looking basses. Cool retro aesthetic.

Are those labella flats? I've got some on a different bass but the silk is a darker shade of red.

Those are TI flats. I use the LaBella on my fretlesses though. For a minute I felt pretty dumb cutting that long string but like I said, never notice it. And when I finally change them there’s a shorter scale set waiting.
Thanks, I love that Starplayer. It has a nice tone.

 

[Isaac_James]

Great piece and great electronic upgrade.
I do believe your MIJ SR800 has better build than MIK SR700 too. My MIK SR705 sound just meh until i install Bart P2 Soapar and NTMB 3 band EQ.

The build quality on this bass is pretty great. It was built at the Fujigen factory in 99. Now that I like the way it sounds this thing is going to see a lot of action.

 

[Zooberwerx]

Breakage aside, I still take issue with anything full-thickness (...or close) "hitting" the machine head post. It's tough getting it to conform / bend to the radius and frequently results in a leaf-spring (sproing!) which reacts when the string is plucked.

Riis