i have long scale DR's on a couple short scales, no issues. if it didn't break, you are fine.
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Breakage aside, I still take issue with anything full-thickness (...or close) "hitting" the machine head post. It's tough getting it to conform / bend to the radius and frequently results in a leaf-spring (sproing!) which reacts when the string is plucked.
Riis
I'll always trim a string (if I have to) to keep the windings to a minimum but that also has a good grip on the tuner so the string doesn't lose its tuning.
I am unfamiliar with the term leaf-spring, but I do not get a 'sproing' or anything like that when I play the string. It's pretty even across all the strings now that I have the pickup heights dialed in. As i mentioned above, for now it sounds fine but I'm not sure if this will cause it to go dead early, intonate poorly (I plan to complete the full setup tonight now that the neck has settled in following a truss rod adjustment), or cause problems with the tuner post itself.
It's always a moment of mild apprehension as I contemplate this when I change strings on almost any bass I have. I thought I'd have it down by now but...Nope.I trimmed all these at least a bit. What I've got on there now is maybe a bit more than I'd normally wind around, but I haven't quite figured out how much to leave with these narrower posts yet - it takes less string to go all the way around one of these than it does on either of my other two basses so I need to cut it shorter. It's not too much though so I am unconcerned about that.