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I have some soldering 101 questions

Stagelab

Stagelab

Dec 26, 2015
1,705
1,014
Queens, NY
#1
I’m learning how to solder and watched a few video tutorials first. A few questions came up cause I’m seeing inconsistencies in the videos.

Should I always tin the iron before cleaning it? I have a kit with a small sponge.

Should I always pre-tin each component before soldering? I read that optionally you can skip pre-tinning and instead apply flux paste to the component, tin the iron, and then solder the joint. So which way is recommended?

When finished soldering, should I clean the iron and then tin it again with new solder, then place it back in the stand to cool?

I’m going to practice with wires first and then I have a capacitor swap to do on a P bass.
 
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#4
Here is some good information about solder flux for electronics:
www.chemtronics.com

Essential Guide to Flux for Soldering Electronics

When joining two metals in a soldering process, like used in PCB assembly, flux is required to achieve a true metallurgic bond. That ensures the solder joint doesn’t crack or come loose even with the day-to-day wear-and-tear. This article covers the types of fluxes available, the advantages and...
www.chemtronics.com www.chemtronics.com

The paste flux packaged in a plastic syringe is a very handy way to apply and store flux.

There are solder bearing fluxes that can be useful in certain circumstances that can make the work easier. Like this: Google Search

There are a few ways to clean a soldering iron. Avoid any abrasive method that will damage the tip. Some people prefer a wet sponge, and some prefer a "brass sponge" like these: Google Search

I have often used just a damp piece of paper towel to clean a tip with very good results.

I advise you to keep your solder clean by storing it in a plastic bag if it will not be used for an extended period of time.

Use a high quality soldering iron. Consider the size of the work you will be doing when choosing what wattage iron you will use. A chisel shaped tip may be better than a conical shaped tip for most work associated with guitar electronics.

Beware of over-heating the work.

Having enough molten solder on the tip of the iron to create a path to cause heat to transfer to the work is the key to making quick work of the job and helps prevent over heating.

When soldering insulated wire, avoid touching the insulation or heating the wire so much that the insulation melts, by working quickly.

A good solder joint should be shiny in appearance. A dull looking joint is called a "cold joint", and could result in a failure later on.

Back in the 1970s I spent nine years as a circuit board test and troubleshooting technician working for General Electric Medical systems, and have done a LOT of soldering then and in the decades since, including soldering copper pipe used for plumbing.

It is an easy task to master after you have some practice.
 
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#5
Applying flux to components usually isn't necessary when you're using rosin-core solder. If you're not using rosin-core, get some, it will make soldering much easier.

Having some liquid or paste flux can be handy, for example when fixing a joint you didn't get right on the first try. Just like the solder you use, the flux must be formulated for electronics work and not plumbing. A little flux goes a long way, when you need any at all.

Keeping the iron tip cleaned and tinned at all times should become a reflex with practice.
 
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#6
Electric flux is resin based and not as harsh as plumbing flux; it is neutralized by the solder and heat. Plumbing flux on the other hand is acidic in nature and will keep doing it's corrsive thing, until it is spent or neutralized, even after the soldering is finished. Plumbing solder can be used in a pinch, but isn't really recommended. If you do use plumbing flux, it can be neutralized after the soldering is done with the application of some baking soda and water. Use a brush like was used to apply the flux, to apply the baking soda solution. Dry the area. Keep in mind that washing off the flux may cause a recurrance of the problem you just fixed.
 
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#7
Always tin the iron, clean it. Don't leave it to cool w/ solder on it. Don't use Flux, use rosin core. Pre tinning is a good practice and will make your life easier. Having a little solder on your iron when you go to use it helps the heat conductivity to the component, pre tinning the component makes that process even quicker.
 
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#10
Check out this instagram post. It tells the tale...



I solder with a 750 deg. iron and clean/tin often. I like the little tin of that brillo pad-looking stuff for cleaning over a damp sponge.

With a little practice you will get to where you can get the the components you are soldering to temperature efficiently, and then solder them together.

I use liquid flux in a squeeze bottle
Invalid Link Removed
I store the bottle of liquid flux in a glass canning jar with a metal lid when I'm not using it. It prevents the bottle tip from getting gunky when the flux starts to dry out between projects.

I use 15% silver solder, but I can't find link to it right now.

Get a little fan to blow the fumes away, you don't want to breathe that junk. be sure to position the fan so that it's blowing the solder smoke away from you, but not blowing directly on your work and cooling it.
 
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#12
logdrum said:
You can use non-plumbing flux
Click to expand...
Good catch... It takes a village....
I would stay away from plumbing solder and plumbing flux both.
+1 on the adjustable iron as well. I've done projects using that little Radio Shack (yes I'm that old) Soldering iron without a temp control.
Those kind just keep getting hotter until they become too hot to use, then you have to take a break and let the iron cool down a bit, and then you start over and let the thing heat up to temp again... It's pretty tedious.
 
#14
Wfrance3 said:
Check out this instagram post. It tells the tale...



I solder with a 750 deg. iron and clean/tin often. I like the little tin of that brillo pad-looking stuff for cleaning over a damp sponge.

With a little practice you will get to where you can get the the components you are soldering to temperature efficiently, and then solder them together.

I use liquid flux in a squeeze bottle
Invalid Link Removed
I store the bottle of liquid flux in a glass canning jar with a metal lid when I'm not using it. It prevents the bottle tip from getting gunky when the flux starts to dry out between projects.

I use 15% silver solder, but I can't find link to it right now.

Get a little fan to blow the fumes away, you don't want to breathe that junk. be sure to position the fan so that it's blowing the solder smoke away from you, but not blowing directly on your work and cooling it.
Click to expand...

This sounds like what I do with a variable temp Hakko soldering iron. 750 is a nice temp to get in and get out of there so you're not holding the iron to the component for longer than necessary.

Liquid flux is massively helpful when soldering and I've been using as much as possible when working on guitar electronics or other forms of wiring. It flows the solder exactly where you want it and quickly.
 
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#15
Lenny JG said:
Always tin the iron, clean it. Don't leave it to cool w/ solder on it. Don't use Flux, use rosin core. Pre tinning is a good practice and will make your life easier. Having a little solder on your iron when you go to use it helps the heat conductivity to the component, pre tinning the component makes that process even quicker.
Click to expand...
ALWAYS leave it to cool with solder on when you're done. Next time you turn it on, once it reaches temperature, wipe it clean in the wire mesh, apply fresh solder and off you go



I don't pre-tin pot lugs but I always tin wires after twirling the ends. For groudn connections n the back of pts, first melt a blob of solder on the pot and add the wire later after melting it again.

Six String Supplies on YT has decent step by step videos of wiring guitar harnesses.
 
#16
andare said:
ALWAYS leave it to cool with solder on when you're done. Next time you turn it on, once it reaches temperature, wipe it clean in the wire mesh, apply fresh solder and off you go



I don't pre-tin pot lugs but I always tin wires after twirling the ends. For groudn connections n the back of pts, first melt a blob of solder on the pot and add the wire later after melting it again.

Six String Supplies on YT has decent step by step videos of wiring guitar harnesses.
Click to expand...


Huh, I was always taught not to, and after researching more rn, I can def say it's mixed opinions, but I think I actually like the argument for doing it after all. Thanks for making me change my mind.
 
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#18
I take the iron out, wrap some solder around the tip and plug it in. I leave it kinda horizontal so the solder doesn't just fall off when it melts. Wipe the tip immediately before soldering. When done, just unplug it. I use rosin core solder and no separate flux. I guess it works, I'm still using the same iron I bought in 1983 at Radio Shack.
 
#20
 
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