I have some soldering 101 questions

[andare]

Yes, those are necessary.

I use an Engineer SS02 solder sucker to clean up pots and switches when rewiring guitars. That thing sucks like no tomorrow.

On PCBs I also use solder wick depending on what I have to do.

For wiring up guitars I use Gavitt pushback cloth wire or knockoffs. The reason is it's stranded wire that has already been twirled and tinned so it's ready to be soldered and it can be shaped like solid core wire. And there's no need to use a wire stripper. Just...push back the cloth.

 

[Stagelab]

I practiced fusing wires together successfully. I’m planning to swap the orange drop cap in my P bass next. This is the current wiring. It’s a pre wired kit done by Lollar.

My plan is to clip the original cap where those black covers meet the terminals. Then fuse the leads of my new cap to the same terminals.

Rather than use copper braid or a sucker to desolder the existing joints, could I tin my iron and apply the tip to the joints to melt the solder? Then quickly place the leads of the new cap and reapply the iron to secure the new joint? Basically reusing the existing solder…

 

[Hoochie Coochie Man]

I am not sure why you are replacing the capacitor, but if that is what you intend to do, you should remove the existing solder so that the holes in the terminals are open and then install the new capacitor the way existing capacitor was installed by passing the leads through the holes.

 

[Stagelab]

I am not sure why you are replacing the capacitor, but if that is what you intend to do, you should remove the existing solder so that the holes in the terminals are open and then install the new capacitor the way existing capacitor was installed by passing the leads through the holes.

I’m putting a 0.047 cap in. The last owner put a 0.015 in there—odd choice if you ask me.

Have you ever tried melting the solder with your iron instead of using a sucker or braid to remove the solder?

If this approach isn't likely to work out well, do I need a sucker and braid or just one or the other? I watched a Seymour Duncan video that recommended a sucker for beginners.

 

[Hoochie Coochie Man]

It can be done that way. You could cut the existing leads very short, and then wrap the leads of the new cap ONE wrap around the lugs.

You could also heat up the connection and pull the existing capacitor out of the holes in the lugs. Once you have removed it, you could heat up the lug again and wipe the remaining solder off with a piece of damp paper towel

Neatness is a sign of good workmanship.

 

[Stagelab]

It can be done that way. You could cut the existing leads very short, and then wrap the leads of the new cap ONE wrap around the lugs.

How tight would the leads of the new cap need to be wrapped around the lugs to ensure a stable connection? So this approach wouldn't require any soldering?

Your second recommendation sounds better than my original idea, which would have required a lot of actions in a short span of time. Since I'm a beginner, I'd rather not get over my head. What temp is recommended for melting the solder (at least enough to remove the remaining pieces of the leads from the original cap)? I was soldering at 300 degrees.

I agree. I was really impressed by Lollar's work. They are pros of the highest caliber when it comes to electronics.

 

[Hoochie Coochie Man]

One wrap around and then soldered. Wrapping or going through the hole is for mechanical strength. Soldering is for electrical conductivity.

Temperature is dependent on the type of solder.

600°- 650°F (316°- 343°C) is a good place to start for lead-based solder and 650°- 700°F (343°- 371°C) for lead-free solder.

When I worked as an electronics technician back in the old days most people in the lab would turn up the then new fangled Weller adjustable irons all the way up anyway, and just controlled the heat by how long the iron was touching the work. Before we had adjustable irons with a temperature readout, we had Wellers that had a tip with a magnet on the butt end that was a calibrated alloy that would loose its magnetic strength at whatever temperature the tip was intended to operate. (The Currie Effect). When the magnetic field came back as it cooled down it would close contacts to beging heating again. The tips had the temperature stamped on the magnet at the back end. So, you would select a tip based on what temperature was stamped on it. A 7 denoted a 700 degree F tip.

Old Weller soldering station tips

I have an old Weller (around 30 years or more) that still works like a charm, but I need a new tip. The picture of the sticker on the side: The tip has PTK written on the side: And also the number ...

electronics.stackexchange.com

 

[TheReceder]

Igore anyone that tells you "the bigger the glob, the better the job."