Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
I just ordered a Glarry....
- Thread starter lark_z
- Start date
I noticed this earlier when I put a coat of danish oil on the fingerboard. I got distracted and didn't get a decent picture.
They're not really grooves, just little light stripes. More visible at the higher frets, but it's present throughout to some degree. It's "rosewood" according to Glarry, like anyone believes that.
It's playing great, the relief settled in right at a business card thickness. Waiting on the tuners, GZR pickup et al. Will really get busy in the workshop in a week or so. And yes @96tbird the Glarry is coming off the headstock for sure. Waterslide is a possibility, but I find that to be so fiddly (like a lot of things I only do very rarely). I'm thinking about it.
Attachments
Don't be hasty now. If you remove the Glarry from the headstock, in 50 years when it becomes a cool collectible you will have killed market value.
According to the majority of threads and videos on the subject, fingerboard is "engineered Rosewood," which is a wood pulp/resin mixture. It's probably extruded to resemble wood, then cured and glued to the neck. Kind of a courser version of Ebanol (i.e., powdered paper/resin), with lower proportion of resin, higher proportion of wood pulp. Sort of like particle board.
I'd be careful with oiling it. You might actually dissolve the resin, make the surface spongey. Definitely avoid any cleaning agents, like lemon oil.
A little step back. I was swapping the pickguard on my Donner DPB-510 BK and remembered this thread. I was experimenting with different shades of gold and the layers under the wrap.
I used the Cricut Permanent Vinyl. Wrapped it over the front and trimmed it back close with an X-Acto knife. I went back with 400 grit sandpaper to get the edge close and clean. The screw holes were trimmed with the X-Acto knife and then I used a fresh countersink bit, by hand, and cleaned up the holes.
Do your best to get all the dust off the surface before applying the vinyl. You'll likely get a few air bubbles, you can use a pin or fine tip on the X-acto knife to puncture a small pin-prick in the center of air bubble and squeeze the air towards the puncture.
Be aware, it may wrinkle around some screws or washers, such as what was around the output jack hole.
I used the Cricut Permanent Vinyl. Wrapped it over the front and trimmed it back close with an X-Acto knife. I went back with 400 grit sandpaper to get the edge close and clean. The screw holes were trimmed with the X-Acto knife and then I used a fresh countersink bit, by hand, and cleaned up the holes.
Do your best to get all the dust off the surface before applying the vinyl. You'll likely get a few air bubbles, you can use a pin or fine tip on the X-acto knife to puncture a small pin-prick in the center of air bubble and squeeze the air towards the puncture.
Be aware, it may wrinkle around some screws or washers, such as what was around the output jack hole.
buldog5151bass
Kibble, milkbones, and P Basses. And redheads.
This. I built a Fender parts bass from early 70s parts back in 1983. Been playing it regularly since, never an issue, I think the truss rod has been adjusted 4 times in all that time.
My wife's violin is over a hundred years old. Anyone who plays it or hears it wants it.
+1 for the EB Cobalt Flatwounds!
But I'm also still experimenting with rags and or a foam roll mutes down by the bridge.
I'm thinking a piece of soft rubber hose? Like heater hose, or small pipe insulation? With a rag I can control the density, and it doesn't damage the strings. I fear a hard plastic hose will damage the strings, and not offer much damping. Maybe rolled flannel?
