Condino gon’ light you up, bruh. 
(Sincerely, fake man with electric toothbrush)
(Sincerely, fake man with electric toothbrush)
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Double Bass I plead INSANITY, yer' Honor...
- Thread starter Don Kasper
- Start date
I ain't a-scared of that Two-Wheeled, Solar-Powered, PsychoBilly, and his GD Robocop 'Luminum Bass!
Bring it, Bruh!
(Is he standing behind me???)
Yikes!
Bring it, Bruh!
(Is he standing behind me???)
Yikes!
Earl
Supporting Member
Because they don't have any teeth from clamping drill bits in them!
I've got a lot of tools but even I don't own a drill press. But, did you read the manual?
Real Toothless Men don't read "manuals"...Because they don't have any teeth from clamping drill bits in them!
"Trials and Errors" is my mantra.
If I did this, I think I would not be able to not try a G side bridge foot - E side under the strings combo. You never know....
Yes...There are a few possible combinations which might need to be explored.
I hope this rabbit hole is not too deeeeeeep.
Thx.
'Just back in from a 15 hour road trip and then a 1 am recovery mountain bike ride in that beautiful moon we've had all week.
No psychobilly gigs for me this summer. All my weekly gigs have been old school jazz playin' Wes & Miles & Sonny on my wooden bass.
Keep at it Don; I like your self reliance!
No psychobilly gigs for me this summer. All my weekly gigs have been old school jazz playin' Wes & Miles & Sonny on my wooden bass.
Keep at it Don; I like your self reliance!
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OK. Just completed drilling (4 holes), sanding/cleaning, and re-installing my bridge, with the Wilson K-2 elements - for now, in the "foot" positions.
I have not fired it up yet, as my nerves are still rattled from this "DIY or Screw It Up Yourself" project. (Thanks to @KUNGfuSHERIFF for his excellent suggestion many years ago for keeping the bass on its G side, not the back, to minimize the soundpost falling or moving...this is a big concern of mine whenever I need to remove the bridge. TY, KFS.)
Also - Damn, those elements are TIGHT and I will need to re-ream all 4 holes for a better fit...they suggest a 5mm insertion. (Keep your d*** jokes to yourselves.)
Thanks for watching.
Here are some photos:
I have not fired it up yet, as my nerves are still rattled from this "DIY or Screw It Up Yourself" project. (Thanks to @KUNGfuSHERIFF for his excellent suggestion many years ago for keeping the bass on its G side, not the back, to minimize the soundpost falling or moving...this is a big concern of mine whenever I need to remove the bridge. TY, KFS.)
Also - Damn, those elements are TIGHT and I will need to re-ream all 4 holes for a better fit...they suggest a 5mm insertion. (Keep your d*** jokes to yourselves.)
Thanks for watching.
Here are some photos:
Last edited:
Yeah, I thought of that, but my drill press setup would not allow for that orientation.
Thanks, flat...
Just build a jig, no? But it looks fine the way it is. An audience will never notice it.
...said the guy who doesn't own a drill press!
(jk!?)
But I've built ALL manner of jigs because, like you, I usually work alone and need a third and fourth hands to hold stuff while I work with it and I'm not a cabinet maker, but I make stuff FIT! Precision is important to me.
OK, Thanks, JigBoy!...I, too, like a tight Precision, but I do prefer a Jazz Bass, as my primary Slab Of Choice.
YMMV, and your female ancestors wear ill-fitting, oversized, military footwear.
(jk)
Srsly - the Wilson holes needed to be precisely and accurately drilled (for sonic purposes), and I believe I DID execute the task to those tight tolerances.
I don't mind my placement of those holes, At All. Hopefully there will be an acceptable Sonic Outcome (tm).
IMFO, of course.
I am very tempted to try my K4 on this big American Standard I have. It has a new neck which made it such a killing sound but a huge broad sound. The Yamahiko sounds great on it (so does the EAP) but I stopped playing it as much because it gets lost easily in a bad room and it becomes hard to hear oneself (especially with a drummer).
I am less precious and have drilled the K4 into a number of bridges either with a drill press or just gung-ho with a makita...the second step: where you further ream allows you to fine tune the hole, but it is really straight ahead when you realize that it is hard to mess up. (except placement)
I am less precious and have drilled the K4 into a number of bridges either with a drill press or just gung-ho with a makita...the second step: where you further ream allows you to fine tune the hole, but it is really straight ahead when you realize that it is hard to mess up. (except placement)
Is it important that the holes be parallel... to what? The top? The bridge foot? or is that not a factor?
