• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Ibanez RB888

Did these come in any other colors? I've only seen them in that dark charcoal sparkle kind of color, not that one seen too many others. I've really only seen two others in music videos, but they were the same color as mine.
 
Hey guys, thread necro!

I've got an RB888 that I bought about 10 years ago which had an EMG transplanted into it by a previous owner. I've played it that way a lot and enjoyed it, but recently got curious about the original pickup and I've managed to score one on eBay.

I'm hoping someone can fill in the blanks on the rest of the original wiring for me - I know it's Vol/Tone/Tri-sound, but I don't know what the original values were for the pots and capacitor, nor am I totally sure about how the tri-sound should be wired.
 
Well, I didn't find an answer so I made up my own - ended up using the "AR305" tri-sound wiring from reproguitarparts dot com/Trisound%20Wiring%20Info.htm (not enough posts to link), 500k linear for volume, and 500k log plus 0.047uF cap for tone. As a bonus I used a push/pull on the tone pot to switch out for a 0.010uF cap, which gives a little more variety.

Pretty happy with the quality and flexibility of the sounds I'm getting.

Bonus tip: CTS pots have too large a diameter for the holes through the body on these basses, so double-check the dimensions before finalising your parts order.
 
Well, I didn't find an answer so I made up my own - ended up using the "AR305" tri-sound wiring from reproguitarparts dot com/Trisound%20Wiring%20Info.htm (not enough posts to link), 500k linear for volume, and 500k log plus 0.047uF cap for tone. As a bonus I used a push/pull on the tone pot to switch out for a 0.010uF cap, which gives a little more variety.

Pretty happy with the quality and flexibility of the sounds I'm getting.

Bonus tip: CTS pots have too large a diameter for the holes through the body on these basses, so double-check the dimensions before finalising your parts order.

Sorry I didn't see this earlier. I have an '83 RB920 with a similar setup (single pickup, V/T, tri-sound switch). I'd be happy to open it up and have a look for you. Let me know if you're still interested.

-Alex
 
Yes definitely, if you don't mind! I'd be interested to hear how close my guesses were, and it would provide a useful reference for anyone Googling at a later date.

Alright, here's the bass in question (the one on the left):

RB920_RS940.jpg

And here's a pic of the control cavity:

RB920 control cavity.jpg



The pot codes read 504072 for the volume and 504042 for the tone. That's a 500K linear taper for volume, and 500K audio taper for the tone.

I make out the capacitor on the tone pot to be "563k", which I take to be .056uF.

Pickup wires are red, black, blue, and yellow. I make the red and black wires one coil (didn't check which is which), and the blue and yellow are the other coil. With the tri-sound switch up (towards user), the coils are in parallel (red is shorted to blue, this is the hot side that goes to the volume pot — which is also connected to the tone pot at this point — the black is shorted to yellow, and connected to ground).

In the middle position, it is single-coil mode (black is still shorted to yellow, but blue is now also shorted to black, which is now ground. Signal is from red and black wires only, blue/yellow coil is shorted to ground).

In the down position, it is in series mode (blue is shorted to black, signal is from red and yellow).

In case it's not too easy to see above, on the tri-sound switch, top row, left to right is: empty; blue plus jumper to bottom row; and red plus hot wire to volume pot. Bottom row, left to right is: jumper wire to top row; black wire; and yellow plus ground.

Output measures: parallel – 4.56K ohm; single coil – 9.1K ohm; and series – 17.82K ohm.

Any questions, fell free to ask. :)

-Alex
 
Nice work Alex! Great detailed information. Looks like I got it mostly correct - the tri-sound wiring is a slight variation but electrically seems the same.

Interesting to see the .056uF cap - that seems a slightly unusual value, I might try one and see what I think.
 
I have an old RB888 that my mom and dad bought me for $200 in 1987 when I was a kid. I still play it and its a cool little bass. Recently, I ran across the guy who sold it to me. We got to talking about it and he looked at a paint chip on the back and realized he's the one who sold it to me 25+ years ago. He practically begged me to sell it back to him, but since it was MY first bass (first I played was a Rickenbacker, but that was my dad's bass, this was MINE) and a gift from my folks, I don't want to sell it. I WAS, however wondering what it sold for new when they were built and what would be a current production model in a comparable price bracket in today's market. Oh and the serial number is F833346. Can anyone help me date this instrument? Here are a couple of pics...

View attachment 2123486

View attachment 2123487

View attachment 2123488

View attachment 2123489

View attachment 2123490
F is the month it was made, June. 83 is the year.
I have one of these I bought as a project, built in July 83. I stripped it down, reshaped the headstock, and painted it blue, end to end, fretboard and all. I have an MC888, built inNovember 83, dark stain that I bought new and had the frets removed. I'm currently in the process of recutting the nuts on both and stringing them B,E,A,D.
 

Attachments

  • 20250715_134510.jpg
    20250715_134510.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 11
Last edited:

Latest posts