I got my new bridge Monday, and got it installed. I'll do a setup this weekend - I'm happy.
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ibanez SR bridge problem! really common?
- Thread starter thehangingmist
- Start date
Hi guys, joining in this club. Haven't played this bass much, but picked it up today after a while, and came across this issue.
Seeing that Ibanez is addressing this is a welcome discovery.
If I understand correctly, I need to email [email protected], my model number, photos, and the serial number. Please correct me if I need to do anything else.
Also, should I get the replacement installed by someone or is it straightforward enough that I can just do it myself?
Thanks!
Seeing that Ibanez is addressing this is a welcome discovery.
If I understand correctly, I need to email [email protected], my model number, photos, and the serial number. Please correct me if I need to do anything else.
Also, should I get the replacement installed by someone or is it straightforward enough that I can just do it myself?
Thanks!
Attachments
Ah, I went ahead and mailed [email protected], I guess I'll wait for a response before trying [email protected]
Thanks. I presume I can perform the replacement myself, or does it need more luthier skills than screwing it into place?
Not at all. I did it by hand to avoid stripping the threads, but I was using enough muscle that an electric drill would have been fine for most of it. No luthier skills required
It was extremely easy to change out. It was my first time changing a bridge and I was nervous. Afterwards I felt kind of silly once I saw how easy it was. Especially being a replacement bridge that fits perfectly.
Thanks for the help, hopefully they send me the bridge (and hopefully soon).
Wow, got a mail very early in the morning, saying that I had provided all the info they needed and I do qualify for the replacement bridge. Hopefully it shows up soon!
Anyone have any idea how long shipping took?
Thanks to the guys here who suggested this.
Anyone have any idea how long shipping took?
Thanks to the guys here who suggested this.
Hmm, I couldn't play for what felt like two weeks. But it could have been closer to one week. There just wasn't any expedited shipping or anything
No. But you don't need them since it's a direct replacement for the old bridge
+1
Piece of cake to replace...
However, I will add that on the very last screw I was removing (with power drill), the screw locked up about halfway out, the screwdriver bit then spun & stripped the tip. It wasn't that big a deal to bust out the dremel tool and cut a usable groove in the stripped screw head and finish the task with a flathead screwdriver, but it turned a 5 minute job into more than what I wanted to get involved with.
I would advise anyone to just take their time & above all else, make sure you find a proper (snug) fitting screwdriver tip/bit whichever method you choose (electric or by hand) to minimize the chances of stripping a screw head.
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Fair warning. I'll be extra careful.+1
Piece of cake to replace...
However, I will add that on the very last screw I was removing (with power drill), the screw locked up about halfway out, the screwdriver bit then spun & stripped the tip. It wasn't that big a deal to bust out the dremel tool and cut a usable groove in the stripped screw head and finish the task with a flathead screwdriver, but it turned a 5 minute job into more than what I wanted to get involved with.
I would advise anyone to just take their time & above all else, make sure you find a proper (snug) fitting screwdriver tip/bit whichever method you choose (electric or by hand) to minimize the chances of stripping a screw head.
I am not well versed with bridge setup etc so I need to youtube-up on those concepts. The installation might be the simplest part of this.
I'm also wondering if I need new strings, nothing seems to be wrong with the ones I have, but they're oldish and I don't know if there is any loss in quality once you put them on the bass, then take them off, and then put them back again.
Ha! I ran into this a few years ago and didn't really research to see if it was an isolated incident or not. Good to hear that Ibanez is taking care of purchasers by sending a replacement bridge. I had a 5 string something or other fretless (forget the SR model number, but it looks like they were discontinued) that the B side bridge actually completely broke off, not just bent. I had other issues with this bass as well, but it was a GC purchase and I did buy the warranty (which I usually don't do). After having it at GC's shop 3 times for other issues before the bridge broke, I just gave up on it and returned it for full credit under the warranty.
I probably should have been angry about the whole experience, but happenstance of that return led me to purchasing another bass that has become one of my all time favorites. No hard feelings, and I know I bought a lower end Ibanez and just got a real dog. I'm sure they make some great basses too, but I'm hesitant to try them again. It is nice, though, to see that they addressed the problem.
I probably should have been angry about the whole experience, but happenstance of that return led me to purchasing another bass that has become one of my all time favorites. No hard feelings, and I know I bought a lower end Ibanez and just got a real dog. I'm sure they make some great basses too, but I'm hesitant to try them again. It is nice, though, to see that they addressed the problem.
You seem pretty inexperienced with tools etc. not that this project should deter you but here's something that will serve you well in the coming years. ...
Screw cut threads inthe wood first time installed. If you remove them, BE SURE to re-insert using the same threads. The trick is to place them in the hole and rotate them with your fingers lefty loosey until you feel them drop into the thread cut in the wood. Tighten them with fingers until you are sure they are engaged and then Finish with a screwdriver. Not using the same threads turns wood to mush.
Don't over tighten. Phillips heads will force the driver tip out of the head when they are tight. That's enough. As you tighten more of the five screws you can go back and chrck the others.
Keep driver drills away from your bass, unless you are very careful and handy with tools in general.. That's lazy and as someone above said, it's too easy to damage a screw or worse, the bass itself. It's only five screws! Patience. Spend hard cash on upgrades only to not invest the time to be careful? Folly.
I would suggest getting a new set of strings based around the fact that you are going to have to set the intonation on a new bridge and old-ish strings may not give the best results in that process. At least this is the defacto-standard advice most articles, tutortials and such will commonly recommend.
It would have been nicer if they had sought out the owners and let them know about the issue. Wishful thinking, I know.
Thanks for the advice, I get extra careful around precision equipment. I'm not going to use a drill/driver.
What's a good recommended string set for the SR505?
Totally based on what tonal goals you're after. I play labella nickel rounds, which I've really enjoyed and will get another set. I've heard that flats sound amazing on SR50x models
+1
That's totally personal preference - brand, gauge, etc. I prefer nickel wound strings in general on my Ibanez basses. For my tastes, steel wound strings would be too bright - YMMV.
Thanks guys, I'm a relative beginner and I thought the factory strings were somewhat versatile since I like to play a little bit of everything. I'm not chasing any tone yet, but some bands I love are, well, Rush (surprise!), Maiden, Primus (and Les' hundreds of side projects) etc. These are the few that popped to mind.
I'm not sure what the factory strings are, nickel or steel wound, but I thought they were good.
