Ibanez SR750 Set Up Problems.

[Hagstrom allday]

Good day folks, I am having problems getting this new bass set up. I am following the specs suggested and it is turning out to be garbage. I hope to give has as much info as possible here in one shot.

It is an Ibanez SR750 (damn near impossible to find any info about that exact model on the inter web)

It was just bought new from Long n MqQuade. they gave it a standard set up which was all fine and dandy. New Ernie ball Slinky strings were put on it (Green Package, .045, .065, .085, .105 to be precise.)

I took it home, played great. My band however plays in half step down ( Gb Db Ab Eb) so i dropped the tuning and the typical issues ensued, fret buzz, poopy playability blah blah blah.

After a billion years of trying to find any info on this bass, even an instruction manual, i ended up calling Long n MqQuade who ended up calling ibanez and I was emailed two different manuals, neither of them mentioning my exact model. but supposedly a well rounded manual or something.

So, on top of following the specs mentioned in their manual, various youtube tutorials and various tips and tricks from these forums i have set out to set up my bass. For the most part, everything is set up to what various specs tell me to, and it plays crap. I have high action in most of the middle of the neck, and I have frett buzz and some un playable notes past the 15th fret or so.

For the Truss Rod adjustment, I had the Capo on first fret, fretted the 17th fret (and 24th for poopie) and inserted a credit card under the 7th fret and have no string lift. its damn near perfect. The string height is at whatever height recommended (but i had to go freestyle to eliminate buzz and now i have high action) and the intonation and height at the nut is fine. Any Suggestions? ideas? Best photos i can get for ya currently

 

[JustForSport]

If you adjust the relief (with the trussrod) (capo'd at the 1st and fretted at the 24th, measured around the 8th) to a 'business card' thickness- a lot less than a credit card, first-
you should then be able to raise the saddles a bit more without having higher action, and getting the strings playable above the 15th fret.
Also, check the nut slot height- that can make the action high, regardless of getting the rest set up right.

 

[Turnaround]

I agree with JustForSport concerning a "credit card" thickness of relief - that's way too much. It should be a business card (.010" - .015") as a starting point. However, I would capo at the first fret, hold the string down where the neck meets the body (18th I think in your case) and slip the business card in at 7th or 8th fret. Once that is right you can go about setting the string height at the saddles. Do all of the measurements with the bass tuned where you will normally have it.

 

[TimB 619]

Make sure the nut is cut right. Don't assume it's right from the factory; as I've learned here, on most production basses they are not right. have someone who knows what they're doing cut it right. Getting good low action is virtually impossible without doing this.

 

[DiabolusInMusic]

Read Jerzy Drozd's setup guide entirely and then attempt the entire setup process over again. Having a set of feeler gauges won't hurt either.

If the bass cannot be setup to your liking (it very well might be incapable of this) then return it to L&M. Don't be surprised if that thing is either too high to play or buzz city, that has been my experience with SR basses, I much prefer the BTB line.

 

[Evil Undead]

Sounds to me like you've got way too much relief.

 

[Hagstrom allday]

Just realized I had not replied my findings ! How terrible of me. So what I had ended up doing was taking the strings off. I had lightly conditioned the fretboard, gave it a bit of a clean and shine, and tightened the rod a hair. After putting the strings on and bringing the tuning up to Standard for a day, then bringing it down to my half step down, it only needed minor adjustments at the saddles. I was blown away. Just needed a little TLC. I was also leary about using the Elixer Strings since someone else posted they just didn't have the magic, but after having Ernie Balls on it and now Elixers in the same gauge it is problem free
I only wish I knew what the little switch on it does. I cannot tell a very apparent audible difference with it -__-

 

[iiipopes]

The switch changes the center frequency of the mid knob. But I do not know the frequencies.

 

[Hagstrom allday]

The switch changes the center frequency of the mid knob. But I do not know the frequencies.

Ok so you are thinking that it would be a boost or cut switch depending on where the mid knob is ?

 

[JustForSport]

More like the mid knob is boost or cut at the frequency chosen by the switch.
Works like a push/pull mid knob/switch.

 

[iiipopes]

Ok so you are thinking that it would be a boost or cut switch depending on where the mid knob is ?

Does the mid knob have a center detent? If it does, then as posted above the switch changes the center frequency on which the mids boost and cut. Depending on what frequencies are chosen, yes, it could be subtle and hard to tell any effect, especially if the player tends to significantly scoop mids anyway.

 

[Solarmist]

If you have "high action in most of the middle of the neck" it sounds like there's too much relief. I use the 1st, and 24th fret rather than the 1st, and the 17th on my SR's, and they're set to somewhere in between one and two business cards for relief clearance - gauged under the 9th. Once you get that right - then do the action heights. A Stew-Mac string tension guide works perfect for setting action.

Ibanez help & how to > [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

 

[Hagstrom allday]

holy moly this is fancy. So, let me see if I got this. If I have all of the EQ Knobs at 2/3 boosted, with the switch in the up position, my mids are cut 2/3 and if i put the switch in the down position the mids are boosted 2/3 ?

 

[Hagstrom allday]

F

If you have "high action in most of the middle of the neck" it sounds like there's too much relief. I use the 1st, and 24th fret rather than the 1st, and the 17th on my SR's, and they're set to somewhere in between one and two business cards for relief clearance - gauged under the 9th. Once you get that right - then do the action heights. A Stew-Mac string tension guide works perfect for setting action.

Ibanez help & how to > [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

Fantastic reply, never even thought of that site

 

[KramerDon]

holy moly this is fancy. So, let me see if I got this. If I have all of the EQ Knobs at 2/3 boosted, with the switch in the up position, my mids are cut 2/3 and if i put the switch in the down position the mids are boosted 2/3 ?

I'm guessing that the switch changes the frequency of the mid adjustment,something like maybe centering around 400hertz in one position or 600hertz in the other.Kind of like a parametric EQ.Just a guess,especially about the specific frequencies

 

[Hagstrom allday]

I'm guessing that the switch changes the frequency of the mid adjustment,something like maybe centering around 400hertz in one position or 600hertz in the other.Kind of like a parametric EQ.Just a guess,especially about the specific frequencies

Ok I see what your saying. I am not too picky on what the specific frequencies are, it just is difficult to tell a day and night kind of audible difference

 

[iiipopes]

holy moly this is fancy. So, let me see if I got this. If I have all of the EQ Knobs at 2/3 boosted, with the switch in the up position, my mids are cut 2/3 and if i put the switch in the down position the mids are boosted 2/3 ?

No. If the switch is in one position, then the center frequency for boost and cut is one frequency, and if the other, then another frequency is the center for boost and cut. The amount of boost or cut is determined by the mid knob, at the selected frequency.

 

[Hagstrom allday]

No. If the switch is in one position, then the center frequency for boost and cut is one frequency, and if the other, then another frequency is the center for boost and cut. The amount of boost or cut is determined by the mid knob, at the selected frequency.

Fantastic. Would have been cool if Ibanez had told ya that. the few manuals I had told you a bunch of different things.

 

[iiipopes]

Fantastic. Would have been cool if Ibanez had told ya that. the few manuals I had told you a bunch of different things.

To find out how it sounds, set your tone controls on both the bass and the amp to whatever the "12:00" position is, in other words, no boost, no cut. Then flip your mid switch one way and play at moderate volume with the mid knob alternately dimed and dumped. Then flick the switch to the other position and repeat diming and dumping the mid knob. Then you will come to an understanding how it affects your tone on your bass. One or the other with some boost will give a great "drive" tone, and the other with some cut will be designed to give you a good "slap" tone.

 

[Hagstrom allday]

To find out how it sounds, set your tone controls on both the bass and the amp to whatever the "12:00" position is, in other words, no boost, no cut. Then flip your mid switch one way and play at moderate volume with the mid knob alternately dimed and dumped. Then flick the switch to the other position and repeat diming and dumping the mid knob. Then you will come to an understanding how it affects your tone on your bass. One or the other with some boost will give a great "drive" tone, and the other with some cut will be designed to give you a good "slap" tone.

Why didn't I think of that ahaha, trying to be all complicated and such. I shall give it a try when I am home !! Thank all of you so much