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If Ricks Are So Coveted...Why Are They So Cheap?

I am going to respectfully disagree. Basses made in the 50s and 60s had flats on them, and were made to be played with flats. The true tone of the bass was made to be heard with flats. Do rounds give a different tone? Yes. The true tone? That is debatable.

"True tone"?? Just because the originals were supplied with flatwounds doesn't make that the "true" tone. Just the only tone available at the time.

That's like saying the "true ride" of an automobile can only be experienced with leaf springs as suspension.
 
"True tone"?? Just because the originals were supplied with flatwounds doesn't make that the "true" tone. Just the only tone available at the time.

That's like saying the "true ride" of an automobile can only be experienced with leaf springs as suspension.

Um, that's the point I was making. Neither flats nor rounds get the "true tone" of a bass. Just the tone of that bass with flats or with rounds.
 
Um, that's the point I was making. Neither flats nor rounds get the "true tone" of a bass. Just the tone of that bass with flats or with rounds.

Ummm.....

I am going to respectfully disagree. Basses made in the 50s and 60s had flats on them, and were made to be played with flats. The true tone of the bass was made to be heard with flats. Do rounds give a different tone? Yes. The true tone? That is debatable.


huh...???
 
A buddy of mine has a newer Ric and I have a old 4001 from 1976. He played his, then played mine and immediately offered his newer one for my old one. TONE was the reason.
A few years later I had a friend of mine work on the neck (frets, adjustment) and I also needed a new PU, which was re-wound by Frailin. Now it’s playing and sounding great again.

:hyper:
 
How are the necks on the newer ones?

Back in the '70's, every Ric player I knew, was having trouble with warping/twisting/instability. It was never clear to me whether this was a problem with the instrument itself, or people not knowing how to adjust dual truss rods...

Ironically, tho I could never get a usable sound out of any of my Ricks, I've never had a problem with any of their necks. My 4001 had the original skinny "skunk stripe" neck with the old truss rod system and, bizarrely enough, it never gave a problem. It always stayed in tune, didn't warp and the relief would always stay put where I set it.

The problem wasn't really the two rod system, it was just how it was put together. On mine, the two rods just sat on this little cheezy piece of metal (looked like) set into the cavity in the neck. Who knows how it worked on the inside.

But the trick to adjusting the relief was to "set" the neck manually before you tightened the rods. I sat on top of my 4001 (gently of course) on a table with the neck hanging over. I'd manually bend the neck by pushing on it towards the nut to "unload" the rods. Then I'd give each rod a 1/8" turn and let go. Then repeated until the relief was where I wanted it.

The other thing is the dual rods are _not_ intended to be asymmetrically tightened to get rid of a twist. This was a misconception; they were supposed to be tightened/loosened equally. If you had a twist, you were screwed like on any bass ;).

On the newer models like the late 90's and 00's, tho, they went to a thicker neck with a different truss rod system. Those you can adjust just like any other bass without having to manually bend the neck first. I think even my 4003S which was an 80's model had the improved truss rod system (in fact, it may be the case with all the 4003's and the 4001's were the ones with the old rods?).

Oddly enough, the necks are the most trouble-free part of the 4003....

LS
 
How are the necks on the newer ones?

Back in the '70's, every Ric player I knew, was having trouble with warping/twisting/instability. It was never clear to me whether this was a problem with the instrument itself, or people not knowing how to adjust dual truss rods...

As a qualifier, my current Rick stable is as follows:
1976 4000
1977 4001
1981 4080
2010 4003

The neck on the 4003 is as thin or very close to the neck on my 4000 & 4001.
The bass neck on the 4080 is very narrow, and quite thin, much like an Ibanez.

The width of the new neck is slightly wider than the 4001 neck, so with new blank saddles one could widen the string spacing a bit if need be.
I find it every bit as comfortable as the earlier basses, and if contemplating a 4-2-5 mod the new necks are more conducive.

I believe that they are using the same basic CNC programs to cut the neck and body as are used for the 4004 series basses, so we get the slimmer body and slightly wider necks.

I must agree that Rick basses are the most stable basses I've played, and the new rods are extremely easy to adjust, though I still prefer to use a manual support style of neck adjustment.
It makes more sense to help the neck rather than rely on the strength of the rod(s) to do all the work, though I use a system I learned from a fellow on another forum that uses a long stright edge and a clamp for a more measured incremental adjustment.
I can post a pic if necessary, or PM if anyone is interested.
 
As far as warped/damaged/twisted necks, it seems that very few people had any clue how to adjust a Rick bass in the 1970s.
My 4001 was one of the many abused, though the neck was harmed only slightly.
My 4000 has to this day never had a truss rod adjustment (still has factory daubs of paint on the rod nuts) and does not need one, and all of my Ricks stay in tune very well.

My older ones are more stable than my new one, but it may be because the wood is still settling.
It was only made in January of this year and all the others are at least 29 years old.
 
Excluding limited editions, if you want an appreciating Ric, start looking at 1973 and older.
Most people can't tell the difference between a 1974 4001 and a 2004 4003.
Vintage here means checkerboard bindings, toasters, crushed pearl inlays, horse shoes, ...


Link Removed


exactly. This is the fender equivalent to a pre-cbs. without these features any ric is just like the other, collectible-wise, of course.
 
I am going to respectfully disagree. Basses made in the 50s and 60s had flats on them, and were made to be played with flats. The true tone of the bass was made to be heard with flats. Do rounds give a different tone? Yes. The true tone? That is debatable.



"True tone"?? Just because the originals were supplied with flatwounds doesn't make that the "true" tone. Just the only tone available at the time.

That's like saying the "true ride" of an automobile can only be experienced with leaf springs as suspension.

Um, that's the point I was making. Neither flats nor rounds get the "true tone" of a bass. Just the tone of that bass with flats or with rounds.

Ummm.....




huh...???

Oh Geez....Sorry Rob....I might as well have pushed you in front of a bus! I'm the one that started that True Tone bit. The inherent tone....the reason or tone/sound Rics are known for is what I meant by True Tone. :spit::rollno:

Leave poor Rob alone...:D
 
My Rick 4000 made in 1974 has a crazy stable neck! That thing won't move, in a GOOD way! And she stays in tune like no other.

I think I like the 4000's and 4004...I like the smooth edges.

And don't get me wrong...I like Ricks...always have...but prefer the basses I have at the moment. AND I also don't mind flats....and used them exclusively when I was in a classic rock band last year...but they don't work very well for the punk band I'm currently a member of. :)
 
Oh Geez....Sorry Rob....I might as well have pushed you in front of a bus! I'm the one that started that True Tone bit. The inherent tone....the reason or tone/sound Rics are known for is what I meant by True Tone. :spit::rollno:

Leave poor Rob alone...:D

It's all good! I used roundwounds on my Rick and other basses for most of the time I have played bass. In the last two years I have been a convert to flatwounds and love them! Still, I keep rounds on my Gibson Thunderbird basses!