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If you build it thay will come

#41
With all that done, I could turn my attrition to the body. The last section of around a 7’ x 8/4 x 10” board (I still have some of this board for necks, and part of that is going in the 5-string. I have sapele for days.) Through the milling process again.
After truing up the edges to be glued to the neck, I add some maple clamped and waiting for the next work day.


R.S. 4 N.T 006.jpgR.S. 4 N.T 007.jpg


So I hope I got enough pics for you guys. Remember, all comments, small bits of sarcasm, and random jokes (about wood or otherwise) are welcome. If you’re passing out 2 cents I’ll get the collection plate. Till next time, happy building.:D
 
#42
May I ask a quick question?
What thickness are you using for the neck? I'm actually building one right now with maple and purple heart for the neck and 34 inch scale, 1 5/8s nut and all that. I just want to know what would be a good thickness for the back of the neck.

Btw love your designs
 
#46
PBRs are good... for producing flatulence. Little else.
Click to expand...

LOL...I guess I've just been drinking it for to long.

[/back to the build thread]
Click to expand...

I agree...
I've been carving necks like crazy at work (my other luthiery gig). So either i'll be primed and ready or... oh wait, I still need to glue on the finger board. Well any way, I get a full day in my shop on friday, so there will be a real update soon. Till then :D
 
#47
Well guys… you ever have a day when you know what needs to be done, but just can’t get the order of operations right. Friday was that kind of day. It all started with having more to glue up than I had clamps for. So I spent more time trying to maximize clamping time with the amount of clamps I have than making real progress. Some work got done and some mistakes were made. The work that got done… glued up a blank for knobs, thickness sanded back of the head stock (I built a jig much like the luthier’s friend that hooks up to my spindle sander for this a wile back),

new shop 001.jpg
and planed the maple lams flush with body wings. My mistake… well, I cut the fret slots on the finger board, but I cut a 35” scale and needed to cut a 34” scale. I had 35” on the brain dew to wanting to get the 35” neck lams glued up and the 34” fingerboard glued on. To recover from this I did some measuring, by adding some purplehart binding on the 34” FB (cut w/35” scale fret slots) it will now work for the 35” 5-string, and just recut a new wenge FB for the 34” 4-string.
R.s. B 005.jpg I will say it’s nice to have a system that is easy enough to make that kind of mistake (my hat’s off to you who cut fret slots by hand) but it still sucked.
 
#48
For those interested, once upon a time my little bench top Delta table saw was my main and only saw. With some help from Stewmac and good photo from school (Roberto Venn) I built a fret slotting sled and it couldn’t be easier, takes about 15 min. With a nice table saw upgrade last year, the bench top saw only cuts fret slots now. This sled works for either tapered or straight finger boards, I like to taper them first. The sled is ¼” MDF with 2 rails that ride in the miter track of the table saw. A tall cross piece of hardwood in front, short thinner piece in back and an adjustable middle piece (the fence) with a registration pin over the blade cut. Line up center of finger board with perpendicular line and cut.
new shop 002.jpgnew shop 003.jpg
 
#50
Well, things have been crazy at work trying to get orders wrapped up before turkey day. That’s why you just got a barrage of post. This Thursday my boss had to go out of town, so I got an unexpected day in my shop. Finally, I got the finger board glued on the 4-string. :hyper: It will be ready for carving today; 5-string lams (neck and body) are ready for glue up as well. More to come tonight. Till then and as always happy building.
 
#52
Today was a good day. However I did not get to carve my 4-string neck, I did glue everything in sight (or at least it felt that way). 5-string neck, glued. 5-string body lams, glued. 4-string head stock ears, glued. I also cut the excess from the back of the 4-s neck and leveled it. It is just begging to be carved. Again it doesn’t look like much on paper but a full day’s work none the less.
And of course, the pics.
Rose Stem 5 N clamps 001.jpg Rose Stem 4.jpg
 
#54
Why hello there:
It’s been a min. holidays :(. I got a little more done on the 4-S. head stock cut and shaped and the neck carved (mostly).There will need to be more blend carving once the wings are glued on. I was hoping to have my bridge by now but… so if I don’t have hard ware by next Sat. I’ll just have to glue everything up and hope for the best. Not much progress on the 5-S or anything else. The baritones are on the drafting table, need custom T.R. for fretted Black Angle (too be explained later, you can see a pic of my personal fretless Black Angle @ http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f57/roll-call-ive-built-bass-rough-lumber-club-787347/index6.html pg.6 #107) and yes, there is a semi hollow/chambered prototype in the works too. When all this is done I’ll be moving on to some different body shapes. Maybe I’ll just keep this thread going for a couple years :D ha ha.
And the pics.
R.s. 4-s 004.jpg R.s. 4-s 005.jpg

Thanks for checking in,
Happy building and happy holidays
 
#57
Another Sat. down.

I had to start my day with a fret level, crown, and polish for work. Once that was done I could work for myself again, so I started with making another body template with a pocket cut out for the finger board. This will allow me to line up my wings and route the body to final shape.

001.jpg002.jpg
 
#58
I keep some melamine coated particle board around for gluing stuff up (glue doesn’t stick to well to the melamine). I used 1 large piece (which should be around 14”W x 20”L, it’s not but it should be) and 2, 14”W x 3”L pieces of melamine for this body/wing glue up. The large piece sits on top of 2 clamps with the 14”x3” on top of that (following so far, I’m finding this difficult to explain). Since the body angle is already cut in the front side of the body section of the neck, I let the finger board hang off one 14” edge of the 14”x3” the other 14”x3” is under the butt end and clamp it down. This will allow the wings to lie flush with the front body section of the neck. Now it would be tricky to cut the inside portions of the horns after they’ve been glued on, so I cut and sand them almost to final dimensions before glue up, After multiple mock-ups glue was used and 7 more clamps, 2 of them hold the wings flat while the other 5 squeeze it all together. After all that I tried to get the truss rod rout done on the 5-S, but had some difficulties so I called it a day before I screwed things up.
001 (2).jpg003.jpg

Till after the holiday, happy building
 
#59
Hello watchers and lurkers:

Just to let you all know the builds have been on pause. I had to revamp my shop; I just couldn’t take it anymore :(. My wife and kids are away for the weekend, so I’m hoping to get back in to it be for they get home, but the shop has to be done first.

Talk to you all soon, till then happy building. :D
 
#60
Ok guys;
Those of you following if you recall I’ve got 4 bass builds and 2 baritones. I won’t talk about the baritones (being a bass forum and all) unless someone asks about them. Anyway, I’m still revamping the shop (good shop flow means more productivity) BUT! I did manage to get the hollow body/chambered little further. Have a look.


The body- northern ash (the heavy stuff) with a walnut top. (pay no attention to the burn mark, bottom right)

R.S.HOL 001.jpgR.S.HOL 006.jpg
 

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