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Installing a Jaguar mute on a P-Bass

The operation of that mute is essentially the same as the Univox/Epi hollowbody bridges of the 60's and early 70's...a rocking device that presses the mute foam up onto the strings, or flips down to disengage. A mute can be as simple as a strip of fabric woven through the strings.

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Not a fan of the 'Bass Mute' or anything mechanical and it looks fugly to boot. I like the Jaguar mute but it needs a route (rather small and totally covered) but it looks funny backwards. I know it works well but other than a strip of foam to squeeze in between the strings and the body, I'm not seeing anything better.....or should I say cooler.
 
Why is one Jaguar mute on the P Basses shown flush and the other has standoffs. Am I not seeing something correctly ?
The Jaguar mute I have is flush (like the blue P Bass).
Same type of bass, same bridge, same installation.....What gives daddy-o.
 
They are shipping now: ://www.talkbass.com/threads/the-bassmute-returns.1151199/#post-17305197
Why is one Jaguar mute on the P Basses shown flush and the other has standoffs. Am I not seeing something correctly ?
The Jaguar mute I have is flush (like the blue P Bass).
Same type of bass, same bridge, same installation.....What gives daddy-o.
The one with the tort guard is either installed contrary to the instructions, or has been loosened to allow you to see the holes drilled. Properly installed it should look like the blue one. Notice the difference in the setup though; the blue one is set up lower than the tort THAT may have an impact on the install. They are also using different thicknesses of foam.
 
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They are shipping now: ://www.talkbass.com/threads/the-bassmute-returns.1151199/#post-17305197

They are also using different thicknesses of foam.
I didn't notice the foam. The blue P Bass looks like memory foam by the 'squishy-ness', the other looks like standard 3M.
I don't know about it showing the mounting screws just for display (of install). It looks like actual posts over the mounting screws. Either way, I really don't see the reason for keeping it higher than it should be. I have no experience with Jaguar mute systems and it appears that it should lay flat.

The taller example, even if for display, would just teeter around on those two posts.....if that's what they actually are.
I'm not being picky here, I'm just trying to understand it better. I want to put one on my Precision because I like the tone of muted bass lines. This 'Hurley' way of doing it just seems like the most practical way of switching between mute and non-mute especially within a song, at least on a bass that never came with it.
 
Just did mine on my '88 57AVRI.
It's tight when engaged but flips back fine. It'll take time to work it out. Plug greased but still being fussy.
All in all it's ok. I merely liked the look and the idea of having it when I need it without fumbling with foam.
I typically use memory foam backed on a strip of leather. I use the leather side and it sounds more even. Foam side and it's almost dead.
Would I recommend this.....meh. It's not the greatest and it's not a complete flop. I'm not sure why Fender chose this on a $3K P-Bass but if it works then what ever.
I did the work myself like always. There's an authorized Fender luthier in town. He's an elitist and only works on "special" people's instruments, the word prick comes to mind. Whole thing took me less than 20 minutes and cost zilch besides parts.
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I wonder if there is any kind of bridge that can use the two post holes. Like a les paul bridge integrated to the mute
That's where a Jag bridge would sit. You might have to modify the hole some but I imagine it could be fit to a Les Paul/ Les Paul could be fit on there/ without too much hassel.
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Sorry for the necro-thread, but I've been debating doing this.
With Nordstrand releasing the NordyMute, I've got an idea that could work.
My issue with this mute and many other solutions like it is that it can throw off your intonation. I HATED the GruvGear Fump for this reason.
The NordyMute works because it has grooves where the strings sit, so the string isn't just muted by the foam pressing up (or down), but by the foam also pinching the strings gently on the sides.
Seems to me the middle ground would be to cut grooves in the pads on one of these Jag mutes. Then you'd (theoretically) have the easy on/off switchability of the Jag mute, but none of the intonation problems.
Any of you fellows that already have the Jag mute on your bass wanna give this a go?
 
Sorry for the necro-thread, but I've been debating doing this.
With Nordstrand releasing the NordyMute, I've got an idea that could work.
My issue with this mute and many other solutions like it is that it can throw off your intonation. I HATED the GruvGear Fump for this reason.
The NordyMute works because it has grooves where the strings sit, so the string isn't just muted by the foam pressing up (or down), but by the foam also pinching the strings gently on the sides.
Seems to me the middle ground would be to cut grooves in the pads on one of these Jag mutes. Then you'd (theoretically) have the easy on/off switchability of the Jag mute, but none of the intonation problems.
Any of you fellows that already have the Jag mute on your bass wanna give this a go?
The jag mute isn't adjustable; it is either on or off and it uses a relatively thin piece of foam. I don't think your suggestion will work on a jag mute, maybe a Music Man bridge mute where there is some adjustment..
 
Sorry for the necro-thread, but I've been debating doing this.
With Nordstrand releasing the NordyMute, I've got an idea that could work.
My issue with this mute and many other solutions like it is that it can throw off your intonation. I HATED the GruvGear Fump for this reason.
The NordyMute works because it has grooves where the strings sit, so the string isn't just muted by the foam pressing up (or down), but by the foam also pinching the strings gently on the sides.
Seems to me the middle ground would be to cut grooves in the pads on one of these Jag mutes. Then you'd (theoretically) have the easy on/off switchability of the Jag mute, but none of the intonation problems.
Any of you fellows that already have the Jag mute on your bass wanna give this a go?
I think I may be the grandfather of this thread.

I'm not sure I buy this, but it is an interesting idea that I see no harm in. The Jag mute pushes the bass a little sharp. I guess that matters when you look at your tuner. I'm just not sure it matters when you listen.
 
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having just done this job myself (where was this thread when i needed it?) i can attest that there is in fact some adjustability, a little from raising/lowering the mute overall and primarily from shortening the screw that pushes into the plunger. shortening the screw (then rounding and polishing the end) reduces the pressure on the mute to flip from one side to the other.

stock it seems that screw is too long, even with the hole for the plunger and spring drilled as deep as it can go without compromising strength at the back of the body.

i found it to work pretty well and sound "like all the old records" but it still pushed things ever so slightly sharp. i frankly found that slightly pitchy sound to work somehow, it seemed to be more "authentic"

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having just done this job myself (where was this thread when i needed it?) i can attest that there is in fact some adjustability, a little from raising/lowering the mute overall and primarily from shortening the screw that pushes into the plunger. shortening the screw (then rounding and polishing the end) reduces the pressure on the mute to flip from one side to the other.

stock it seems that screw is too long, even with the hole for the plunger and spring drilled as deep as it can go without compromising strength at the back of the body.

i found it to work pretty well and sound "like all the old records" but it still pushed things ever so slightly sharp. i frankly found that slightly pitchy sound to work somehow, it seemed to be more "authentic"

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Looks great!

Out of curiosity, do you have any spare foam pads for your mute?
Have you considered cutting small slots into the foam for the string to sit into?
Methinks that could help alleviate the "sharpening" of the string while still damping.
I'm mostly waiting on someone else to do that work and confirm my thoughts before I do this myself. :D