Is it an enamel?

[TortCult]

I recently bought an old Precision copy and stripped the body using a heat gun.
The relatively thin layer of paint came off no problem, but what I found underneath is another thick, rock hard coat of transparent stuff. Since I plan on refinishing the body with Dupli Color spray cans, I wanna make sure the transparent stuff is no enamel to avoid nasty reactions. Is there any way of determining what it is? Smells kind of fruity when sanded.

Appreciate your thoughts!

 

[AboutSweetSue]

Sounds like polyurethane.

 

[Beej]

That would be the polyester sealcoat. You should have no problem painting right over that stuff once its sanded smooth...

 

[arbiterusa]

The relatively thin layer of paint came off no problem, but what I found underneath is another thick, rock hard coat of transparent stuff.

It won't be a problem with Duplicolor. What are you going to do the clear coat with?

Some useless information: the original version of that undercoat was known as Fullerplast. Fender used it on everything post-63. What you have won't be that, but it'll be pretty much the same idea.

 

[TortCult]

What are you going to do the clear coat with?

Not sure yet, I've heard the Dupli Color clear doesn't get particularly hard so I'm propably gonna go with wipe on poly or maybe even 2K clear. I've also heard some people like to just wet sand and polish the color coat, not sure how durable that would be.

the original version of that undercoat was known as Fullerplast. Fender used it on everything post-63. What you have won't be that, but it'll be pretty much the same idea.

Interesting, when I watched some videos of people stripping the paint to get an idea of the process, it looked like they all ended up with bare wood, so that really puzzled me.

Thanks guys!

 

[Beej]

If you want, you can sand it back to bare wood, but if you're going to be painting anyway, there's no point, really. The sealcoat makes a great substrate to paint on, and provides a durable surface over the wood.

 

[TortCult]

If you want, you can sand it back to bare wood, but if you're going to be painting anyway, there's no point, really. The sealcoat makes a great substrate to paint on, and provides a durable surface over the wood.

Yeah, I'm just gonna leave it on. Sanding it to bare wood would take forever and it surely is tougher than the wood itself (probably bass wood).

I really do want to see some more pics of this thing...

Sure why not, but not before I put some primer on it! I had to redrill almost every screw hole to fit the pickguard I made and the original holes for the bridge were totally out of place and crooked, let's just say it looks.. kind of... messy. Whoever put this bass together obviously has never heard of a drill press but the upside is I got it dirt cheap. Next step would be to make some kind of painting jig!

 

[bobdabilder]

Use 2k clear if you want durability.

 

[arbiterusa]

Not sure yet, I've heard the Dupli Color clear doesn't get particularly hard so I'm propably gonna go with wipe on poly or maybe even 2K clear. I've also heard some people like to just wet sand and polish the color coat, not sure how durable that would be.

If I can suggest a couple of things, as I recently did these three Corts of mine with Dupli-color - got tired of the brown:

1. DO NOT use dupli-color clear. It takes a long time to cure, goes on super-thin and is unusably fragile. That bass is not in this pic and is going to have to be redone at some point.
2. Put on clear coat, at least eight coats of it. If you try to sand the color coat enough to buff it, you'll go right through it.
3. These were all done start to finish out of a can. I have a compressor and gun, but didn't want to get an entire gallon of nitro. Plus, I wanted to try poly. I had really good luck on the clear coat using Minwax matte poly on the orange/red guy, and Minwax nitro (name is "Minwax 15200 Gloss Brushing Lacquer Spray", can says "Clear Aerosol Lacquer, you can get it through Amazon as I do because it's hard to find a dealer in CA that carries the stuff), that's on the green guy at the right. Get a VOC filter mask and don't shoot in a closed OR open garage with a gas water heater (you will find yourself with more excitement on your hands than you ever cared to, and no, I do not speak from experience!). Me, I shoot outside unless it's humid. If it's humid I don't shoot. Use the mask anyway when you do, inside or out.

Good luck!

 

[TortCult]

Nice job, those Cort basses came out great, really dig the orange/ gold one!

1. DO NOT use dupli-color clear. It takes a long time to cure, goes on super-thin and is unusably fragile.

Yeah that's what I've read, so I only bought the white primer and color (pastel blue, almost looks like sonic blue).

If you try to sand the color coat enough to buff it, you'll go right through it.

Even if I apply a few extra coats? I've got 2 cans of color.

I had really good luck on the clear coat using Minwax matte poly on the orange/red guy, and Minwax nitro (name is "Minwax 15200 Gloss Brushing Lacquer Spray", can says "Clear Aerosol Lacquer, you can get it through Amazon as I do because it's hard to find a dealer in CA that carries the stuff), that's on the green guy at the right.

Unfortunately we don't have most of the Minwax products available here in germany, I've only found their water based poly. The best option available would probably be the 2K clear, scary stuff.

Definitely gonna get my hands on a proper mask first and no, I won't do any spraying near fireplaces. I also wanna shoot outside, hopefully the weather will be okay.

 

[TortCult]

Today the weather was good so I finally put some primer on the body.
Hanged it up on the balcony while it's still warm:

Doesn't look to bad on picture but I've created some runs, especially on the sides and there are some minor dings that are still visible. What's the best way to deal with that?

 

[Beej]

Sand them back and spray again!

 

[TortCult]

Sand them back and spray again!

Would 400 grit be okay?

Prior to spraying I used super glue and epoxy as filler for scratches and dings, but now that the primer is on there I feel like I have to use something softer to avoid sanding all the way back to the undercoat. I have no idea, this is the first time I'm trying to do a decent paint job on anything

 

[deff]

You can't leave drips as they will always be there if you don't sand them back. I would always suggest a clear coat. Clear coats come in almost every conceivable finish option now and add a lot of protection. A 2 part clear is probably best, but I've also had excellent luck with Krylon Fusion clear if you are going the rattle can route.

 

[TortCult]

You can't leave drips as they will always be there if you don't sand them back.

Fortunately the drips have flattened out quite a bit during the last few hours, still need some sanding for sure.

Krylon Fusion clear

Yet another brand that's pretty much unavailable in germany..
I'll keep looking for a less toxic alternative to 2K clear, the weather will get wet and cold again, so I'll
probably have to spray/ wipe somewhere inside. Don't wanna kill anyone.

 

[TortCult]

After some more sanding and priming I finally got the body ready for color coating but the weather wouldn't allow me to do it outside (just above 10°C and rain/wind) so I had to do it in our little storeroom with no ventilation, yikes...
Fortunately I was able to borrow a VOC respirator that covers your face completely so I did survive but the storeroom is a complete mess now, still have to clean it up

This is how I proceeded:
Light-Medium coat, wait 10 mins.
Light-Medium coat, wait 10 mins.
Medium coat, dry over night, very light wet sand with 1000 grit
Medium coat, wait 10 mins.
Medium coat

This is what it looks like so far, not quite sonic blue but close enough
The curtains weren't my choice btw...

The surface feels surprisingly smooth with minimal orange peel:

Since I really don't wanna mess up the house any more than I already have or kill everyone with 2K clear fumes, I ask myself whether the color coat is thick enough to wet sand and polish it, without burning through it. I know, a clear coat would provide more durability but at this point I don't really care, no need for a 20+ year old cheapo bass to be immaculate anyway.

What would you do?

 

[bobdabilder]

I would clear coat it.

 

[Ripthorn]

First, I did 2k over duplicolor and adhesion was not very good.

If it were me, I'd go shellac. No name brands to worry about, no fumes ,easy to touch up, easily available, etc. Just try to find super blonde dewaxed shellac in flake form and mix it yourself. I've done a guitar with shellac and it turned out very well, just be aware it will take roughly a billion thin coats.

 

[JIO]

Clear-coating after wet-sanding with satin (Stew-Mac/ReRanch) lacquer will give you a very nice even finish that feels good and doesn't require all the buffing etc. It needs to be shot outside but it sets quickly and can be wet-sanded between coats for a pretty smooth finish. Bonus is over time it will subtly amber. Light coats - especially the first one and multiple light coats after with light (foam-pad) sanding between.

 

[TortCult]

First, I did 2k over duplicolor and adhesion was not very good.

If it were me, I'd go shellac. No name brands to worry about, no fumes ,easy to touch up, easily available, etc. Just try to find super blonde dewaxed shellac in flake form and mix it yourself. I've done a guitar with shellac and it turned out very well, just be aware it will take roughly a billion thin coats.

Interesting... would this stuff be appropriate? 100g Schellack Blond Schellackflocken Blätterschellack Flocken Wachsfrei A+ | eBay

I'll translate it
"Finest dewaxed shellac for the restoration of antique furniture,
musical instruments, valve radio's etc.
Shellac- blond is suitable for treating all kinds of wood."

"French polish: mix 60g shellac with 250ml ethanol"

I've tested some ethanol in the pickup cavity and it seems to actually melt the color..
But I'd really love to do it this way without the nasty fumes!

Clear-coating after wet-sanding with satin (Stew-Mac/ReRanch) lacquer will give you a very nice even finish that feels good and doesn't require all the buffing etc. It needs to be shot outside but it sets quickly and can be wet-sanded between coats for a pretty smooth finish. Bonus is over time it will subtly amber. Light coats - especially the first one and multiple light coats after with light (foam-pad) sanding between.

Unfortunately I'd have to pay overseas shipping and shooting outside is no option until next spring (german fall/ winter is nasty, cold and wet).