I have kinda standardized on all my basses:
Bourns or CTS, makes no difference to me. both are high quality and to my unsophisticated standards, interchangeable...
On passive single-coil basses (like a P-Bass, or Jazz Bass), I do 250k linear taper volume, and 250k audio taper on Tone.
I did have a bit of a tricky deal on one of my basses; I put in a pair of Delano Soapbars. They're individually switchable between series/single/coil/parallel.
I set it up for VVT (volume for each pickup, master tone) 500k pots all around. I played it that way for a couple months, but it felt too bright, strident if you will... I switched it my 250k LT vol. and 250k AT tone. That was too much the other direction. I finally resolved to leaving the 250's in for volume, and making the tone a 500.
The above is what I do, and from reading these posts for a while, it's a decently popular approach. Having said that, there are no rules to any of this, and there are a bunch of different versions of the correct answer. You could do worse than what I did, get a decent soldering iron and learn how to solder and then get your hands on a selection of potentiometers and experiment. - I didn't mention tone caps (capacitors) because the thread was specifically about tone pot, but yea, get some of those too. I'd recommend getting Orange Drop brand (or type, not sure which is correct, but they're orange.,.) start with the values .047uf (very popular), but also grab a 0.33, 0.22, maybe a 0.1, and see how that goes. Follow any wiring diagram from a reputable website; Bartolini; Lindy Fralin; Best Bass Gear. Then you can tweak to perfection, but not have to schedule into a repair shop and do without your bass while you wait for your repair. Not to mention saving money by taking care of it yourself!