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Is there a way to improve B string on Fender Jazz?

That's what I'm talkin' about. The other unknown is break angles, witness points, etc. I'm reluctant to assign culpability to the neck simply because "Fenders are like that".

Riis

Break angles/witness points aren't going to fix what the OP is encountering with the bass. They'll fine tune it, sure, but those are things the general playing population rarely thinks about. I wish it were that simple.

I do see your point. For me, given how many Fender 5s I've played, talked with builders about issues, etc.. I tend to lean more on the neck as where the main problems start. And sadly, Fenders are like that.

If they weren't, there'd be no real reason for Sadowsky and Lull to try and make them better, right?
 
I had a similar experience . . . . . .

I already had several 5 string basses that were fine, so I didn't try to mod my way out of the "issue". I was disappointed but IMO the best way to deal with a bass that isn't hitting the spot is to move it on and find the bass that does. The guy I sold the bass to was happy, so I guess we had different objectives and/or playing styles.

Keep them moving. It seems, eventually, even the "crap" basses can find a loving home.
 
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My tech would ck the nut first, and all else making it mucho better. My nuts always get checked first for any type of string issue. Fender nuts can be a weird plastic that starts to file badly, heats up and then files quickly. A bit tough to deal with but certainly doable. Those strings should also be changed. No string suggestions as your target sound is unknown. I tried the same upgrades. J-retro is an awesome upgrade. The Fralins, IMO are great if a hotter pickup is wanted but I slightly preferred the fender sound. I suggest popping in the Fender pickups, at least I found that preferable. Luckily for me, I didn’t have that b string issue. I went with Labella Rx light strings .118 b string.
 
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Break angles/witness points aren't going to fix what the OP is encountering with the bass. They'll fine tune it, sure, but those are things the general playing population rarely thinks about. I wish it were that simple.

I do see your point. For me, given how many Fender 5s I've played, talked with builders about issues, etc.. I tend to lean more on the neck as where the main problems start. And sadly, Fenders are like that.

If they weren't, there'd be no real reason for Sadowsky and Lull to try and make them better, right?

I disagree. Establishing a true, well-delineated vibrating string path is paramount for proper string response, tuning, intonation, etc. Yes, it's frequently overlooked or ignored and we've got the threads to prove it.

Riis
 
I disagree. Establishing a true, well-delineated vibrating string path is paramount for proper string response, tuning, intonation, etc. Yes, it's frequently overlooked or ignored and we've got the threads to prove it.

Riis

We also have the threads to prove that this is an inherent issue with the Fender 5st Jazz neck.
 
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I’ve never had an issue with a B string not being full or bassy enough. Every 5 I play the B is TOO full and thick with not much clarity, poor sustain, and even worse as you go up the neck.
I’ve found that a thinner B string and lighter touch brings it much closer to the tone of the other strings. A thicker string usually has more fundamental and less upper harmonic content, which I find is the exact opposite of what I need out of a B string.
This is all just in my experience of course.
 
I’ve never had an issue with a B string not being full or bassy enough. Every 5 I play the B is TOO full and thick with not much clarity, poor sustain, and even worse as you go up the neck.
I’ve found that a thinner B string and lighter touch brings it much closer to the tone of the other strings. A thicker string usually has more fundamental and less upper harmonic content, which I find is the exact opposite of what I need out of a B string.
This is all just in my experience of course.

I hear that. I currently have a .110 B on my Fender V.

My Cort is using .040-.130.
 
I’ve heard other complaints like this one on the Fender 5’s lacking B string punch and clarity.
I do have a USA Deluxe 5, 2012 I think, the B sounds like an extension of the E.
Don’t know if I was just lucky or wether the carbon fibre rods in the neck, the stealth B string retainer and the high mass string through body bridge play a part, I’m happy with the sound, only better one I own is a 35” scale Surine Quest but that has a chunky neck and wide spacing but the B on that rocks.
 
It is a common problem with the Fenders and I had several with the same general results. I got some relief using a tapered B string meaning tapered at the ball end. There are a few out there - SIT makes one, Elixir as well as others. Worth a try and make sure you try to adjust the pickup height to spec when doing your setup.
 
The Fender Stealth string retainer can help a little with this, at $20 it’s a cheap experiment if nothing else.

the stealth B string retainer and the high mass string through body bridge

It took me several steps to get a usable B on my P5. A little bit here and a little bit there. What I ended up with was continued use of the string-thru bridge function, upping my string gauges (the DA XLs with either a .130 or .135 B string) and installing the Fender Stealth String Retainer. While it is usable in a band mix, I still wouldn't take it into the studio.

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The "B string problem" on 5 string basses is exactly what it sounds like - a string problem. If you look at the diameters of strings in 5 string sets, and understand the Physics behind things, the strings that are available commonly are wrong. For even tension across the strings, you need a geometric progression of diameters - each string needs to be 1.33x the diameter of the next smallest one to be right - balanced in tension. For some reason, bassists have come to expect that 40-60-80-100 or 45-65-85-105 (arithmetic progresions, not geometric) are somehow "right" when in fact they aren't - both of those sets are unbalanced, with G strings that are OK, D strings that are way too tight, A strings that are a bit too tight, and E strings that are a bit floppy. When you take that set design the next step and add a B string (and just add .020 to the diameter, the math is too far over the edge - the result is a floppy, bad sounding B string. It's a string problem.

What should it look like? My 5 string basses wear sets that are typically 35-50-70-95-130. That's pretty well balanced - a bit on the "progressive" side in that the tension goes up a bit (but not much, really) in the bigger strings. I like low tension strings, and I use a 130 B - that's a low tension B string. If you like a set with a 100 E, you need a 135 B to keep up, and if you normally use sets with a 105 E, you should be running at least a 140 B string.

A longer scale is a band aid - sure it helps a bit, as it increases the tension of the string, but a longer neck is actually floppier itself. that's simply Physics, with no way around it. A longer scale also makes the strings that were already too tight even worse. With the right strings, there is nothing wrong with a 34 inch scale.

It is NOT a problem with your bass - magnetic pickups as used on our basses don't actually roll off at low frequencies. It IS a string problem - if you want to fix it, fix it with a better matched set of strings.
 
The best way to improve the B string on a Fender Jazz is to sell it and get a Dingwall :roflmao:. Sorry I had to :bassist:

Yep, except in my case it was a Peavey Cirrus USA 5 that gets it done with a tight B, no muss no fuss.

I have played and have friends bring me too many Fender J fivers with this issue. I know there are fixes, but they ain't always quick and easy, it can involve a bit of tail chasing.
 
The "B string problem" on 5 string basses is exactly what it sounds like - a string problem. If you look at the diameters of strings in 5 string sets, and understand the Physics behind things, the strings that are available commonly are wrong. For even tension across the strings, you need a geometric progression of diameters - each string needs to be 1.33x the diameter of the next smallest one to be right - balanced in tension. For some reason, bassists have come to expect that 40-60-80-100 or 45-65-85-105 (arithmetic progresions, not geometric) are somehow "right" when in fact they aren't - both of those sets are unbalanced, with G strings that are OK, D strings that are way too tight, A strings that are a bit too tight, and E strings that are a bit floppy. When you take that set design the next step and add a B string (and just add .020 to the diameter, the math is too far over the edge - the result is a floppy, bad sounding B string. It's a string problem.

What should it look like? My 5 string basses wear sets that are typically 35-50-70-95-130. That's pretty well balanced - a bit on the "progressive" side in that the tension goes up a bit (but not much, really) in the bigger strings. I like low tension strings, and I use a 130 B - that's a low tension B string. If you like a set with a 100 E, you need a 135 B to keep up, and if you normally use sets with a 105 E, you should be running at least a 140 B string.

A longer scale is a band aid - sure it helps a bit, as it increases the tension of the string, but a longer neck is actually floppier itself. that's simply Physics, with no way around it. A longer scale also makes the strings that were already too tight even worse. With the right strings, there is nothing wrong with a 34 inch scale.

It is NOT a problem with your bass - magnetic pickups as used on our basses don't actually roll off at low frequencies. It IS a string problem - if you want to fix it, fix it with a better matched set of strings.
How do you explain then that every 45 65 85 105 130 or lighter, worked great with my Status, Music man, Lakland etc.fivers but on a Fender not so? Strings matters but geometry and construction of a bass matters more.
 
How do you explain then that every 45 65 85 105 130 or lighter, worked great with my Status, Music man, Lakland etc.fivers but on a Fender not so? Strings matters but geometry and construction of a bass matters more.

If you're happy with a 105 E, you should be using a 140 B. Past that, you've got anecdotal evidence of....what I'm not exactly sure of. I'm glad you have basses you like, but the Acoustics of the situation haven't changed - fixing the problem means doing it at the source - in this case, the string set design.
 
this is an oft-complained issue with the Fender 5 design
With both MIM and MIA? I don’t keep up with fivers much since i got rid of my Dyna fiver back in the late 80’s, but i did try a Cirrus and an MIM jazz for a while a few years back and there was nothing wrong with either of them except they were not a DynaBass.
To be clear it was neck width that put me off the Cirrus and Jazz, there was nothing wrong with the way they played or sounded.
 
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If you're happy with a 105 E, you should be using a 140 B. Past that, you've got anecdotal evidence of....what I'm not exactly sure of. I'm glad you have basses you like, but the Acoustics of the situation haven't changed - fixing the problem means doing it at the source - in this case, the string set design.

The source IS the bass; strings can be changed/adjusted.

The B string, regardless of gauge preferred (and the tonal considerations that happen between a .115-.150) should be clear and defined. The Fender 5st Jazz is notorious for having a muddy, undefined B string regardless of gauge.
 
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The source IS the bass; strings can be changed/adjusted.

The B string, regardless of gauge preferred (and the tonal considerations that happen between a .115-.150) should be clear and defined. The Fender 5st Jazz is notorious for having a muddy, undefined B string regardless of gauge.

I am curious; are there any 34" 5 string basses you would recommend besides G&L?
 
I am curious; are there any 34" 5 string basses you would recommend besides G&L?
Music man...


Fender is not known for having stellar B strings, but the type of string can make a noticeable difference in how that B string performs.
Not all strings are created equal and you might have to try a a few different sets to fing somethin* that works better .
I’ve had good luck with D’Addario pro steels. The custom tapered set that sweetwater sells.
D'Addario EPS300-5 Custom Light Top / Medium Bottom Tapered Round Wound Steel 5-string Lon - .043-.127
 
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